防水外套如何保養? | How To Take Care For Winter Jacket?

防水外套該如何保養?

一件有品質的防水外套通常價格不斐，如果是名牌出產的防水外套甚至破萬把塊錢都有可能(例: Gore-Tex、Conduit等)。猶如保養車子一樣，這些具有特殊功能的衣物也值得您小心的定時檢查、保養它。

通常在雨天或是濕冷的環境穿了幾次之後，可能會感覺外套的撥水(潑水)功能似乎不像剛買來時那麼優異。

簡單的測試撥水度的方式就是將衣服在乾燥的情況下，將水淋上布料表層，如果水滴沒有在布料表面形成水珠，而是被吸收進去布料裡面的話，那很明顯地就是布料的撥水(潑水)功能已經被削減了。

(認識衣物撥水效果)

如果布料的撥水(潑水)功能已經被削減了怎麼辦？不必擔心，只要經過細心的照料保養，馬上又可以讓你的防水透氣外套重新復活。



防水外套的正確保養步驟:

1. 將外套徹底清潔:
   衣服的髒汙源除了汗水及泥土的直接碰觸外，空氣污染也是造成外套髒汙的一大來源，所以衣服只要有在用，雖然肉眼看不出髒汙，每隔幾個月作適當的清理保養，對衣服來說是很重要的。品質好的防水透濕大衣不必害怕清洗，定時做清潔保養才能讓它壽命更長久。清理時，先將衣服表面泥沙塵土輕輕清理，再將衣物所有的拉鍊拉上、扣子扣好、魔鬼氈黏好(如果是兩件式外套，建議先將其拆分開再進行清洗)。可以先將領口、袖口、背部及較髒的地方用軟毛刷輕輕地刷洗、清洗汙垢。通常一般的防水透濕外套都可以置於洗衣機，不須乾洗(除非有特別無法移除之毛配件)。盡量使用溫和清潔劑，選用溫水或冷水洗滌。而且要避免使用漂白劑、衣物柔軟精或強效洗潔劑等，以免破壞布料功能。避免長時間浸泡水中。洗滌之前，還是要先詳細參閱各製造商的清洗標籤，並請遵照製造商建議，畢竟各個品牌的防水透濕外套採用的材料都有些許的不同。(前往了解認識清洗標示)


2. 恢復撥水(潑水)功能:
   隨著使用或洗滌次數，外套的撥水(潑水)功能一定會漸漸衰退，這時候就可以看出品牌對於撥水(潑水)加工處理上的好壞。如果你的防水透濕大衣已經沒有像剛開始買的時候可以在表面上形成水珠，甚至已經開始滲入外套布料內，這就表示是時候該為你的外套做額外的撥水(潑水)處理照料了
   
   上圖為一般市面上常見的各種撥水(潑水)功能處理劑。恢復撥水(潑水)處理需在完成清洗步驟後，於衣服沒有滴水的狀態，大約七分溼時，均勻噴上或浸泡建議劑量的防潑水處理劑。


3. 脫水烘乾:
   如果衣物標籤上沒有標明「禁止烘乾/熨燙」等字樣，便可使用低溫烘乾或蒸汽熨斗方式將其乾燥(認識衣物標籤圖示)。溫度除了幫助布料對於撥水(潑水)處理劑的吸附，同時也活化布料撥水(潑水)的效果。經過實驗證實，烘乾效果與風乾對於布料撥水(潑水)的確影響有實質上的影響。
   當然，若是產品本身有標明「禁止烘乾/熨燙」的話，置於通風處自然陰乾即可。千萬不能置於陽光下進行長期曝曬，因為紫外線會加速布料材質老化及破壞其他大衣配件。


4. 選擇良好的保存環境
   畢竟外套都有它的壽命，適時的保養才能延長壽命。在進行完善的保養之後，保存的環境也是格外重要的。在將防水大衣放進衣櫥衣櫃以前，務必要再三確認衣物裡外都已經徹底乾燥。若有水氣殘留，或有沒乾的部位，會造成布料防水透氣膜的傷害，或是內部肉眼看不到的黴菌滋生的問題，而造成衣物無法挽救之錯誤，因此存放大衣外套的地點濕度也都是要特別注意的。

How To Take Care For Winter Jacket?

Any quality jacket that says “Waterproof” on the tag likely meets industry standard for keeping out moisture, so you really do not have to worry about modern jackets leaking. Maintaining breathability, the other side of staying dry, requires proper care and maintenance of the garment. There are a couple of simple things you can do to make sure that your jacket keeps you dry for many hikes to come:

Keep your Gear Clean:

Dirty gear doesn’t just smell bad…it functions bad as well. That is because breathability relies on the openness of the tiny pores in the waterproof-breathable membrane. Impurities from the environment and oils and minerals from your skin and sweat can all collude to clog up the pores and decrease the performance of your gear. Regular washing keeps this problem in check, as well as makes it easier for your buddies to sit next to you on drives to the trailhead. The best choice for washing your raingear is a detergent specifically made for outdoor gear, like Nikwax Tech Wash. If you can’t get that, use mild, unscented, powdered detergent. Other detergents can actually degrade your membrane, dramatically shortening the life of your gear in a way that companies will be hesitant to warranty. You can hand wash your gear in the sink or throw it in the machine on the most gentle cycle. It is a good idea to yank rain gear out before the spin cycle, because water trapped on the inside of the garment is not going to spin off, just put unnecessary pressure on your membrane. A few shakes and a minute to drip should have your gear ready for the drier. Read the tag, and dry your gear as warm as it allows. Or just hang it in the breeze.

Take care of your DWR:

The coolest thing about brand new rain gear is that when you walk out in the rain (or spill your coffee on it) liquid beads up and rolls off like water off a ducks back. This has nothing to do with the membrane inside, but is due to a coating on the face fabric called a Durable Water Repellent (or DWR). If the membrane or coating on the inside of the fabric isthere to keep you dry, the DWR is there to keep the fabric dry. This is important because breathability depends on a vapor gradient; for the moisture to want to leave the inside of your jacket, the air outside must have less moisture in it than the air inside. But, if your DWR fails and the fabric “wets out,” directly on the other side of the micro-thin membrane is soaked, cold nylon, then vapor is not going to want to exit the garment. In fact, it is more likely to hit the chilled membrane and condense, leaving liquid moisture on the inside and making it feel for all the world like your jacket is leaking.

Brand new gear always has a great DWR coating, but time, wear, and contamination all take their toll on DWR. So wash your gear regularly, and dry it in the drier on as high a heat setting as the fabric will allow. This will help restore the efficacy of your DWR. If your clean jacket is still wetting out too quickly, retreatment might be necessary. Buy a treatment, like Revivex or TxDirect from Nikwax, and spray it on your garment after washing but before the drier. It will restore the coating and keep you more comfortable for longer.

編排整理 Edited: ACOTEX Fabric Talks 布料指南
Source: Denali