什麼是平織布?
布料的交織，是利用天然纖維、人造纖維或各種不同纖維混紡而成的紗線縱橫交坐而成。織品上縱向紗稱為經紗，橫向紗稱為緯紗，經紗與緯紗相互交錯的情況稱為織品組織。而因布料的交織方式不同，可分為平織布與針織布兩大類。
平織布，又稱平行織品或梭織布(中國大陸習慣稱呼)，透過平行的經紗與平行的緯紗，以直角相互交錯所組成的織品布料。相較於針織布，平織布通常較不具有彈性(不考慮加入彈性纖維的情況下)，但較為耐磨。
平織布的運用：
平織布在生活上的用途很廣泛，像是襯衫、西裝、牛仔褲、被單、窗簾、枕頭套、防水外套、外套內裡布、布質包包、布質行李箱等等。
平織布依其經緯紗交錯組織點的不同，又可分為平紋組織、斜紋組織和緞紋組織三種。
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| 平紋組織(Plain Weave)示意圖 |
平紋組織的平織布的組織概念如右圖所示。
平紋組織是在各種組織中最簡單的一種，例如以四根橫向的經紗與四根直向的緯紗互相交織時，每根經紗與緯紗都會各有四個交錯點。
以原本平紋組織為基礎，增加或減少交錯支點的數目，或移動原本組織點的位置，或兩種同時施行時，即可做平紋組織的變化。
平紋組織布的變化形式有：
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| 方平紋組織布 (Mat, Basket or Hopsack Weave) |
- 經重平紋組織布(Wrap Rib Weave)
- 緯重平紋組織布(Weft Rib Weave)
- 變化重平紋組織布(Fancy Rib Weave)
- 花式重平紋組織布(Figured Rib Weave)
- 分區重平紋組織布(Oblique Rib Weave)
- 方平紋組織布(Mat, Basket or Hopsack Weave)
- 變化方平紋組織布(Fancy Mat Weave)
斜紋組織(Twill Weave)
斜紋組織的經緯紗並非每根連續相互上下交錯，而是經紗有時連續浮於(表面上)兩根或超過兩根緯紗的上面，或連續沉於(表面下)兩根或超過兩根緯紗的下面。最後布料織品表面上會斜向交錯構成斜紋線。
斜紋組織布料的浮數不相等或配置數不同時，組成的斜紋織品正反兩面的紋路肯定不同，這種兩面不同紋路的斜紋組織布料，我們稱之為單面斜紋組織(Uneven Sided Twill)。另外如果織品兩面浮出經緯數量配置與循環都相同的話，組成的斜紋織品正反兩面的紋路除了斜向相反之外，其他都會相同。此種組織稱為雙面斜紋組織(Even Sided Twill)。
斜紋組織布的變化形式有：
- 急斜紋組織布(Steep Twill or Diagonals)
- 緩斜紋組織布(Reclining Twill)
- 曲線斜紋組織布(Curved Twill)
- 破斜紋組織布(Broken Twill or Cross Twill)
- 夾花斜紋組織布(Fancy Twill)
- 混和斜紋組織布(Mixed Twill or Compound Twill)
- 撚斜紋組織布(Corkscrew Twill)
- 網形斜紋組織布(Entwing Twill)
- 陰陽斜紋組織布(Checked Twill or Dice Twill)
- 山形斜紋組織布(Point Twill)
- 菱形斜紋組織布(Diaper Twill)
- 陰影斜紋組織布(Shaded Twill)
上列圖示由左至右依序為：正斜紋、曲線斜紋、夾花斜紋、混和斜紋、網形斜紋、山形斜紋、菱形斜紋 和 陰影斜紋
緞紋組織(Satin Weave or Sateen Weave)
緞紋組織的組織點並不是連續的，而是以平均距離散佈在織品組織中。在布面組織中每一經或每一緯紗中僅有一個交錯的組織點，所以在三種平織布組織布料中，緞紋組織的表面特別平滑光亮，但耐磨力較弱。
- 重緞子組織布(Double Satin)
- 花崗組織布(Granite Weave)
- 變則緞紋組織布(Irregular Satin)
- 陰陽緞紋組織布(Checked Satin)
- 陰影緞紋組織布(Shaded Satin)
- 蜂巢組織布(Honey Comb Weave)
- 白拉東蜂巢組織布(Brighton Honey Comb Weave)
- 海綿組織布(Sponge Weave)
- 浮組織布(Huckaback Weave)
- 仿紗羅組織布(Imiation Gauge or Mock Leno)
- 蜘蛛網組織布(Spider or Linear Zigzag Weave)
甚至還有更多新開發出來的布料組織。
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Woven Fabrics
Woven fabrics are made by using two or more sets of yarn interlaced at right angles to each other. Much variety is produced by weaving. Woven fabrics are generally more durable. They can be easily cut into different shapes and are excellent for producing styles in garments. However the raw edges ravel or fray easily and need to be protected. Fabrics having more fabric count (number of wrap and weft yearns present) keep the shape well. Low count fabrics are less durable and may snag or stretch.Woven fabrics are manufactured in different widths depending on the end use. The fabrics used for apparels usually contain 90 cms width. The Sheeting materials are generally made having a width of 160 cm/140cms and 150cms/180 cms.
Woven Fabric Types
Buckram
It is a stiff coated fabric made from a light weight loosely woven fabric, impregnated with adhesives and fillers. This fabric is used as interfacing so as to provide support and shape rentention to necklines, collars, belts, cuffs, waist bands, button closures etc in garments. They are also used as reinforcements for hand bags and other articles.
Cambric
Cambric a light weight fabric woven in plain weave and produced with a stiff finish. It is suitable for women's dresses and children's dresses that require crispness.
Casement
Casement is a medium weight cotton fabric made of closesly packed thick warp yarns. Generally it is used for curtains, tablelinen, upholstery and rarely used for dresses.
Cheese Cloth
It is popular light weight sheer fabric having open weave. It has a low count fabric consisting of carded yarns. Originally it was used for wrapping cheese or meat and hence the name. It is neither strong nor durable. It is finished in a variety of ways that attract the consumer. It is used not only for women's and children's dresses but also for drapery fabrics. Due to its open structure, it does not require much ironing.
Chiffon
Chiffon fabrics are sheer, light weight fabrics made of hard twisted yarns. Originally these are made in silk fabrics but today they are made from rayon or polyester. They are used for sarees and women's evening wear. The fabrics encounter with the problem of shrinkage.
Chintz
Chintz is a medium weight, plain woven cotton yarn. It is often given a glazed finish which may be temporary or semi permanent glazed chintz are available in solid colour as well as printed with floral prints. These are often made from blends of cotton and polyester or rayon. They are used for skits, dresses, blouses, pyjamas, aprons and draperies.
Corduroy
It is a cut pile fabric available in solid colours. The cut pile fibres are seen in the form of ribs on the surface. It is mainly used for pants, jeans and shirts.
Crepe
A silk fabric is originally characterised by a crinkle, puckered surface formed by highly twisted yarns in the warp or weft or both. By using ordinary yarns similar crepe effects can also be produced. Synthetic fabrics also impart crepe effect finish. It is used for sarees, shirts, women and children's dresses.
Denim
It was traditionally a yarn dyed, warp faced cotton twill fabric. Warp is usually coloured (mostly blue, maroon, green and brown) and weft is white. This fabric is made of two weights for sports wear and overalls. It's use as jeans has made it very popular and so the nature of denim is also changed to suit the trend. It is often napped, printed and made with stretch yarn.
Drill
It is a warp faced twill woven fabric. It has a stiff finish. Originally it was produced in white and now it is available in solid colours. It is mairly used for pants, knickers and uniforms.
Flannel
Flannel is a woollen fabric woven in plain or twill weave having characteristic soft handle. It looks like a bulky fabric due to the milling that is usually done to this fabric. Flannel fabric is used for suits and pants and infacnt's clothing.
This fabric is popular as cleaning fabric due to its extreme softness. This is also used to protect children from cold atmosphere.
Gabardine
Gabardine is a closely woven, clear finished warp faced twill fabric. It contains more number of warp yarns than weft yearns and also more durable. It is usually woven in 2/1 or 2/2 twill and has a raised diagonal twill effect on the right side. It largely used for rain coats, suitings and sports wear.
Georgette
Georgette is a sheer light weight fabric, woven in plain weave. It has a characteristic rough texture produced by hard twisted ply, yarns both in warp and weft. Originally it was made in silk, but today it is produced in rayon and polyester too.
It's mainly suitable for women's evening wear.
Kashmir Silk
Kashmir silk is a silk fabric produced in plain weave and is either embroidered or printed. The motifs used are characteristic of Kashmir. It is used for shirts, women's wear and sarees. Kashmir shawls are woven in twill weave and is usually embroidered with traditional Kashmiri embroidery.
Khadi
Khadi is a term used to a wide variety of fabics that are hand spun and hand woven. They are produced in mainly one cotton fibre, blends of two or more fibres. They are known for durability, and simplicity. The fabrics can be suitings dhoties overalls and household textiles.
Lawn
Lawn is a fine sheet, light weight, crisp fabric either made in cotton or linen. Various finishes are given to this fabric, in which the fabric is called by the name of the finish. It is mainly used as lining in dress.
Mulmul
It is an Indian term generally applied to fine cotton fabric slightly heavier, than muslin. These are often printed fabrics. They find use as sarees.
Muslin
Muslin is a light weight open cloth of plain weave. It may be used as grey or bleached and dyed. It is used as household textiles and dress materials.
Organdy Originally it is a lawn fabric which is given a stiff finish. Acid is used for this finish to make the fabric transparent and stiff. It is mainly used for women's wear.
Poplin
Poplin is a medium weight, cotton fabric hving a fine weft rib. it is generally used for shirting, dresses and upholstery.
Sheeting
These are primarily used for bed coverings. They are medium weight, closely woven fabrics woven eigther in plain or twin weave. Sheeting fabrics are made in different widths. High quality cotton sheetings are made in plain weve with a width of 64" x 58" and in twill weave with a width of 60"x72".
Taffeta Taffeta is a smooth, crisp, transparent fabric having a fine rib. Originally it is made with silk fibres but now it is also made in rayon. It has a characteristic finish which produces crispness. It is used as women's evening wear.
Tissue
It is a fine fabric either made in silk or man made fibre. They are characteristically interwoven with gold or silver threads. It is produced in rich colours and they are used as women's dress material, sarees etc.
Velvet
It is a warp cut pile fabric, originally made from silk. It is also produced in Rayon. The dense cut pile makes it very soft and lustrous. It is used as dress materials for women and children. It is also produced with special high twisted yarns which are single or ply yarns. Based on the yarns used and twist given, they are named as semi violes (single yarns1x1) full voiles. (ply yarns 2x2) or half voile (double in warp and single in weft 2x1).
編排整理 Edited: ACOTEX Fabric Talks 布料指南
資料來源: ACOTEX Fabric
Source: Textile School
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