Merry Christmas 2013

Merry Christmas 2013

Wish you a Merry Christmas and may this festival bring abundant joy and happiness in your life!

祝聖誕快樂，讓這個美麗的節日為您帶來豐富的歡樂和幸福！

ACOTEX Fabrics

認識羽絨 | What is down feather?

如何分辨羽絨

使用羽絨製作出來的產品輕便、舒適、透氣又保暖，不論是做衣服或是棉被都是不錯的選擇。羽絨衣、羽絨外套和羽絨外套更是我們在嚴冬時的依賴。但是如何分辨羽絨的好壞呢？羽絨產品是羽絨（DOWN）混合羽毛（FEATHER），依比例不同區分好壞，如果不仔細研究產品，你買到的羽絨衣或羽絨被可能就是便宜的劣質產品哦！

認識羽絨

一般通稱的羽毛，指可游水而不沾溼的羽毛，主要為鵝毛、鴨毛，歐美日諸國之稱為水鳥羽毛，有別於不會游水，且會沾溼的羽毛，如雞等陸鳥羽毛，所以會有落湯雞之稱。 嚴格說來，羽毛要再細分為羽根和羽絨：

• 羽根為葉狀纖維體，依其生長部位，長短不一，具有適當彈性，抗壓力強，故常做為枕頭的材料。
• 羽絨為球狀纖維體，在羽根下層，緊貼著腹部及翅窩的肌肉生長，只佔全身羽毛的8%，質地輕柔彈性好，是最理想的服飾和棉被材料。

羽絨產品

有的劣質羽絨產品是用合成棉加少許羽絨製成的，這種羽絨產品往往是外層的中間鋪一層羽絨，而內裡的地方鋪合成棉。買時用手裡外仔細摸一摸，如一面摸出一些毛梗，而另一面非常柔軟平滑，就要考慮可能是劣質產品。也可以用雙手分別從內外的同一部位把其中的填充物向同一方向拍打，如果是真羽絨產品，就會因拍趕而使一部分羽絨集中，而另一部分在有陽光的地方一照就會透亮。如果是鋪有合成棉的劣質羽絨產品，就不會出現這種情況。也有的羽絨產品是用未處理過的原毛製成的，這類羽絨產品聞上去有一股腥氣異味，用手一拍還會有塵土飛揚或布料上出現塵汙痕跡，不應選擇。

還有一種用粉碎絨製作的羽絨產品，其含絨量多在50％~70％之間，其他成分則多是細羽絨毛片。這類羽絨產品的手感十分柔軟，摸不到一點毛梗子，掂在手裡的感覺也不像正宗羽絨產品一樣的輕柔，而是比較沉重。用手輕拍時，用粉碎羽絨製成的羽絨產品蓬鬆度差，形如棉絮。所謂羽絨是取自於水鳥（鵝或鴨）胸前羽毛的前端，形狀如蒲公英般鬆軟輕柔，遇熱會更加蓬鬆，而且能像毛細孔般隨溫度變化自然開閉，而羽絨蓬鬆的特性，能隔絕冷空氣，是羽絨衣保暖的關鍵。雖然羽絨衣顧名思義是由羽絨填充製成的，但事實上大部份的羽絨衣還摻雜帶梗的小羽毛，羽絨衣的優劣就取決於羽絨和小羽根的比例，羽絨成份愈高，保暖度就愈好。最高級的羽絨產品可以到100%羽絨。

頂級的羽絨衣、羽絨外套，絕對不能從中作「梗」

羽絨放大圖

很多人一定都會有這種經驗，羽絨外套才穿沒幾次，竟然會發現到有小羽毛梗從車縫線間插出，穿起來還會刺刺的，經常被插到皮膚。因為對於羽絨衣的知識一知半解，聽信店家信口開河，花大把鈔票買到劣等羽絨產品，也只能自嘆倒楣。要挑一件品質好價格合理的羽絨衣其實不難，首先，要先記住的觀念是「一分錢一分貨」，因為好的羽絨產量不多，而且需要人工揀選，非常費時費工，所以一件頂級羽絨衣至少好幾千元跑不掉。第二，選擇值得信賴的產品來源，與其在夜市選購羽絨外套，不如前往門市店面選購，一方面可以確保產品來源，另一方面如果遇到問題可以回去和店員詢問。第三，選擇通過檢驗的羽絨產品，以台灣產的羽絨為例，通過台灣CAS羽絨驗證的羽絨產品才是經過層層嚴謹的驗證程序把關，亦是MIT優質品質的保證。

專家表示，羽絨產品是羽絨（DOWN）混合羽毛（FEATHER），需靠含有一定比率的羽毛，才會膨鬆、保暖、有彈性，且因羽絨價格高，商業上少有百分之百的純羽絨衣。較差羽絨衣羽絨與羽毛比例是五十比五十，好一點是七十比三十；至於近年流行超輕薄羽絨衣，是百分之九十的羽絨、加入百分之十的羽毛，才能維持輕薄又保暖的功用。且經濟部即將修正「服飾標示基準」，由於羽絨產品不可能百分百由羽絨製成，未來將限制業者只能標示含羽絨比率，禁止再標示「百分百」或「純」羽絨；違者可依商標法，最重開罰新台幣廿萬元。羽絨產品多為衣服、棉被等貼身用品，其品質好壞與否會對健康造成直接影響，一定要謹慎選購。

羽絨衣、羽絨外套的保養方式

羅志祥穿著羽絨外套為品牌代言

在了解羽絨，並知道如何選購羽絨產品之後，別忘了也要定期保養。很多人認為，所有好衣服都應該送乾洗，其實這是錯誤的觀念。除非產品上有特別標註需要乾洗，否則正常手洗或放入洗衣機清洗即可。將普通的洗劑溶於水後，放入羽絨衣、羽絨外套浸泡約5～10分鐘，再輕輕刷洗衣領、袖口等污漬殘留處，然後以清水沖洗乾淨，最後再放進洗衣袋裡低速脫水即可。如果以洗衣機清洗的話記得要調整至低速清洗，以免傷到羽絨。乾衣時避免直接曝曬於陽光底下。

最後，收藏羽絨衣也不可大意，不論是自然陰乾還是烘乾，把羽絨衣收藏起來之前，一定要確認整件羽絨衣都乾了，再大力搖晃讓羽絨衣蓬鬆，才能收進衣櫃裡收納。

(前往了解防水外套該如何保養)

Down Feather

饒舌歌手Drake身穿Canada Goose羽絨外套
Drake wearing Canada Goose down jacket

The down of birds is a layer of fine feathers found under the tougher exterior feathers. Very young birds are clad only in down. Powder down is a specialized type of down found only in a few groups of birds. Down is a fine thermal insulator and padding, used in goods such as jackets, bedding, pillows and sleeping bags. The discovery of feathers trapped in ancient amber suggests that some species of dinosaur may have possessed down-like feathers.

Human use

For centuries, humans across the globe have used down feathers for insulation. The down feathers of various species of wildfowl, gulls and other seabirds have historically been used for insulation, most now come from domestic geese. Some 70 percent of the world's supply comes from China, typically from birds killed for their meat. Most of the rest comes from Europe and Canada, from birds harvested for meat or pâté.

In the United States, Federal Trade Commission regulations require that any product labeled "100% Down" must contain only down feathers, while products labeled simply "Down" can contain a mixture of fiber and feathers. In addition, products labeled as "Goose Down" must contain at least 90% goose feathers. Down insulation is rated by fill power, which is the number of cubic inches displaced by a given ounce of down (in3/oz). To measure fill power, an ounce of down is placed into a graduated cylinder, and a small weight is dropped in on top of it; the volume below the weight indicates the fill power. Eider down has the highest fill power, at 1200. However, even down with a fill power as low as 550 still provides reasonably good insulation. Higher fill-power downs will thus insulate better than lower fill-power downs of the same weight. Insulation in most outdoor equipment ranges from about 400 to 900 in3/oz (230–520 cm3/g). Down rated 500-650 in3/oz (290–375 cm3/g) is warm enough and light enough for most conditions, and 800-900 in3/oz (460–520 cm3/g) fill is used for very lightweight and/or very cold-weather gear.

Down is warm, lightweight and packable. If well cared for, it retains its loft up to three times longer than do most synthetics. However, when it is wet, the thermal properties of down are virtually eliminated. Down forms clumps if exposed to dampness or moisture, and will mildew if left damp. In addition, it will absorb and retain odors.

Down feathers tend to become more allergenic as they age, as they become contaminated with molds and dust mites. Pillows provide the most common source of exposure, though mattresses, comforters, outerwear and upholstery can also cause problems. A Finnish study has shown that true feather allergies are rare, with most issues caused by dust mites.

Types of Down

Goose down: The down clusters harvested from geese are larger and possess more loft than down from many other birds. Hungarian goose down: Widely considered to be the finest quality down clusters, they are larger than the norm and are mostly pure white in color.
Duck down: The clusters of down harvested from ducks are smaller and more coarse than those of geese. Duck down is usually collected from ducks raised for food, so they're slaughtered at a young age and the down is not fully mature. Duck down is considered low quality and is sometimes mixed with goose down.

Eider down: This is considered to be the ultimate in duck down; it's collected from the breast feathers of the female eider duck and has the largest duck down clusters.

Feather-down combinations: Down compacts with age and is not appropriate for some applications; most down-filled pillow forms are stuffed with a combination of down and feathers. The presence of feathers adds weight, stability and bulk. Therefore, a mixture with more down will be lighter and fluffier than a pillow with a higher feather ratio.

編排整理 Edited: ACOTEX Fabric Talks 布料指南

ACODRY® Compression Training Shirt 機能運動緊身衣 [Garmin Limited Edition限量款]

MbX x Garmin
ACODRY® Pro Compression Training Shirt 機能運動緊身衣

Garmin Limited Edition 科技時尚限量款

一群工程師和一個偉大的產品構想，造就了今日全球衛星定位導航系統的領導品牌Garmin。身為導航和通訊產品的領導者，Garmin 總是堅持給消費者最專業的品質。為了推廣運動風氣，Garmin 找上MbX合作開發此款機能運動緊身衣，利用 MbX Sportswear 對運動機能服飾專業的概念，導入 Garmin 科技時尚的理念，很迅速地擦出激烈火花。Garmin 專屬藍色線條，勾勒出強烈的未來科技感，並導入新一代 ACODRY® Pro 高階吸濕快乾布料。獨特的紡織纖維處理工藝，與一般布料相比，能更快將皮膚的排汗吸走，進而提升人體的舒適度，並額外加強抗UV保護層，讓人體在艷陽高照下也能有效阻擋UV傷害皮膚。讓您在運動時能保持乾爽清新的舒適體驗。


As a leading brand of GPS devices worldwide, Garmin always deliver the most professional technology quality to consumers. In 2013, Garmin partnered with MbX Sportswear to develop a brand new product - ACODRY® Pro Compression Training Shirt. This limited edition Compression Training shirt implemented Garmin future technology elements into its design concept. With the revolutionary material: ACODRY® Pro is designed to keep you comfortable and dry next-to-skin, the revolution technology that provides significantly faster moisture wicking action and quicker drying than cotton or other materials. The anti-odor function prevents the growth of odor causing microbes, plus its UV protection, giving you the whole new experience while doing sports.

保養方式： 可置於洗衣機，不須乾洗 (使用溫水或冷水洗滌即可) 避免使用漂白劑或衣物柔軟精等強效洗潔劑，以免破壞布料功能 避免長時間浸泡水中 自然風乾或放入烘乾機，選用中低溫烘乾 風乾後20~30分鐘，即可恢復吸濕排汗效果

Care Instruction: Machine washable Avoid using chlorine bleach, fabric softeners or stain removers Avoid soaking in water or stay wet for a long period of time Line dry, or tumble with low heat if necessary The durable water-repellent(DWR) will be reactivated after 20~30 minutes

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(了解更多ACODRY® Pro機能布料)

ACODRY® Womens Capri Legging 女款七分緊身褲

OFITS POLO
ACODRY® Womens Capri Legging 女款七分緊身褲

OFITS POLO設計團隊特別設計此款可顯露美麗腳部的七分緊身褲。材質具有舒適伸縮性，可緊貼腳部，展現女性優雅線條。舒適的延展性，不會有拘束感，膝部特殊設計，增進您腿部舒適的活動性。ACODRY® 採用先進纖維技術，可迅速吸收汗水，保持乾燥，具有良好的吸汗快乾功能，讓乾爽清新更加持久


This super comfy fit ACO-DRY® Womens Capri Legging is designed by OFITS POLO development team. With elastic stretch and quick dry material featuring ACODRY® fabric which gives you the comfortable experience by fast-moisture wicking performance, keeping your skin dry all day long.

膝部特殊設計
Knee-Comfort Design

保養方式： 可置於洗衣機，不須乾洗 (使用溫水或冷水洗滌即可) 避免使用漂白劑或衣物柔軟精等強效洗潔劑，以免破壞表面防潑水效果 避免長時間浸泡水中 自然風乾或放入烘乾機，選用中低溫烘乾 風乾後20~30分鐘，即可恢復防潑水效果

Care Instruction: Machine washable Avoid using chlorine bleach, fabric softeners or stain removers Avoid soaking in water or stay wet for a long period of time Line dry, or tumble with low heat if necessary The durable water-repellent(DWR) will be reactivated after 20~30 minutes

R.I.P Nelson Mandela

Rest in peace Nelson Mandela, thank you for all you have given humanity!
曼德拉總統，感謝您對世界人權的貢獻!

Former South African President Nelson Mandela, who served 27 years in prison for anti-apartheid activities and led his continent into a new era, has died at age 95.

南非前總統曼德拉不敵病魔，在今日與世長辭，享壽95歲，他是全球最受尊崇的政治家之一，艱辛地帶領南非脫離種族隔離政策，走向多種族民主。

ACODRY® Pro Mens Compression Training Shorts 男款訓練緊身短褲

MbX
ACODRY® Pro Mens Compression Training Shorts 男款訓練緊身短褲

MbX Sportswear和所有運動愛好者一樣，不斷挑戰更舒適的運動體驗。這次 MbX Sportswear 再度找上 ACOTEX® Fabrics 合作開發機能性運動服飾，希望藉由ACOTEX的舒適布料「肌膚系列Skin Series」中最高階的機能布料材質 ACODRY® Pro 為專業運動員打造一個最舒適的運動環境。ACODRY® Pro 長效型布料，具有吸濕、快乾、透氣、抗菌、防臭和抗UV等功能，並以革命性的技術鎖住布料的功能性，讓舒適度不因洗滌次數而漸漸降低。幫助你迅速排汗保持乾爽，更專注在挑戰自我上。簡單的剪裁設計，保有運動員的低調毅力，隨時準備和極限抗衡。


Like all the sport lovers, MbX Sportswear challenge themselves for a better result. The MbX Sportswear once again find ACOTEX® Fabrics to develop functional material for their sportswear, using the most comfortable high-level performance fabric in "ACODRY® Skin Series" - ACODRY® Pro revolutionary durable fast moisture-wicking performance fabric also with the ability of quick dry, permeability, UV protection and oder control.

保養方式： 可置於洗衣機，不須乾洗 (使用溫水或冷水洗滌即可) 避免使用漂白劑或衣物柔軟精等強效洗潔劑，以免破壞布料功能 避免長時間浸泡水中 自然風乾或放入烘乾機，選用中低溫烘乾 風乾後20~30分鐘，即可恢復吸濕排汗效果

Care Instruction: Machine washable Avoid using chlorine bleach, fabric softeners or stain removers Avoid soaking in water or stay wet for a long period of time Line dry, or tumble with low heat if necessary The durable water-repellent(DWR) will be reactivated after 20~30 minutes

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(了解更多ACODRY® Pro機能布料)

防水外套如何保養? | How To Take Care For Winter Jacket?

防水外套該如何保養?

一件有品質的防水外套通常價格不斐，如果是名牌出產的防水外套甚至破萬把塊錢都有可能(例: Gore-Tex、Conduit等)。猶如保養車子一樣，這些具有特殊功能的衣物也值得您小心的定時檢查、保養它。

通常在雨天或是濕冷的環境穿了幾次之後，可能會感覺外套的撥水(潑水)功能似乎不像剛買來時那麼優異。

簡單的測試撥水度的方式就是將衣服在乾燥的情況下，將水淋上布料表層，如果水滴沒有在布料表面形成水珠，而是被吸收進去布料裡面的話，那很明顯地就是布料的撥水(潑水)功能已經被削減了。

(認識衣物撥水效果)

如果布料的撥水(潑水)功能已經被削減了怎麼辦？不必擔心，只要經過細心的照料保養，馬上又可以讓你的防水透氣外套重新復活。



防水外套的正確保養步驟:

1. 將外套徹底清潔:
   衣服的髒汙源除了汗水及泥土的直接碰觸外，空氣污染也是造成外套髒汙的一大來源，所以衣服只要有在用，雖然肉眼看不出髒汙，每隔幾個月作適當的清理保養，對衣服來說是很重要的。品質好的防水透濕大衣不必害怕清洗，定時做清潔保養才能讓它壽命更長久。清理時，先將衣服表面泥沙塵土輕輕清理，再將衣物所有的拉鍊拉上、扣子扣好、魔鬼氈黏好(如果是兩件式外套，建議先將其拆分開再進行清洗)。可以先將領口、袖口、背部及較髒的地方用軟毛刷輕輕地刷洗、清洗汙垢。通常一般的防水透濕外套都可以置於洗衣機，不須乾洗(除非有特別無法移除之毛配件)。盡量使用溫和清潔劑，選用溫水或冷水洗滌。而且要避免使用漂白劑、衣物柔軟精或強效洗潔劑等，以免破壞布料功能。避免長時間浸泡水中。洗滌之前，還是要先詳細參閱各製造商的清洗標籤，並請遵照製造商建議，畢竟各個品牌的防水透濕外套採用的材料都有些許的不同。(前往了解認識清洗標示)


2. 恢復撥水(潑水)功能:
   隨著使用或洗滌次數，外套的撥水(潑水)功能一定會漸漸衰退，這時候就可以看出品牌對於撥水(潑水)加工處理上的好壞。如果你的防水透濕大衣已經沒有像剛開始買的時候可以在表面上形成水珠，甚至已經開始滲入外套布料內，這就表示是時候該為你的外套做額外的撥水(潑水)處理照料了
   
   上圖為一般市面上常見的各種撥水(潑水)功能處理劑。恢復撥水(潑水)處理需在完成清洗步驟後，於衣服沒有滴水的狀態，大約七分溼時，均勻噴上或浸泡建議劑量的防潑水處理劑。


3. 脫水烘乾:
   如果衣物標籤上沒有標明「禁止烘乾/熨燙」等字樣，便可使用低溫烘乾或蒸汽熨斗方式將其乾燥(認識衣物標籤圖示)。溫度除了幫助布料對於撥水(潑水)處理劑的吸附，同時也活化布料撥水(潑水)的效果。經過實驗證實，烘乾效果與風乾對於布料撥水(潑水)的確影響有實質上的影響。
   當然，若是產品本身有標明「禁止烘乾/熨燙」的話，置於通風處自然陰乾即可。千萬不能置於陽光下進行長期曝曬，因為紫外線會加速布料材質老化及破壞其他大衣配件。


4. 選擇良好的保存環境
   畢竟外套都有它的壽命，適時的保養才能延長壽命。在進行完善的保養之後，保存的環境也是格外重要的。在將防水大衣放進衣櫥衣櫃以前，務必要再三確認衣物裡外都已經徹底乾燥。若有水氣殘留，或有沒乾的部位，會造成布料防水透氣膜的傷害，或是內部肉眼看不到的黴菌滋生的問題，而造成衣物無法挽救之錯誤，因此存放大衣外套的地點濕度也都是要特別注意的。

How To Take Care For Winter Jacket?

Any quality jacket that says “Waterproof” on the tag likely meets industry standard for keeping out moisture, so you really do not have to worry about modern jackets leaking. Maintaining breathability, the other side of staying dry, requires proper care and maintenance of the garment. There are a couple of simple things you can do to make sure that your jacket keeps you dry for many hikes to come:

Keep your Gear Clean:

Dirty gear doesn’t just smell bad…it functions bad as well. That is because breathability relies on the openness of the tiny pores in the waterproof-breathable membrane. Impurities from the environment and oils and minerals from your skin and sweat can all collude to clog up the pores and decrease the performance of your gear. Regular washing keeps this problem in check, as well as makes it easier for your buddies to sit next to you on drives to the trailhead. The best choice for washing your raingear is a detergent specifically made for outdoor gear, like Nikwax Tech Wash. If you can’t get that, use mild, unscented, powdered detergent. Other detergents can actually degrade your membrane, dramatically shortening the life of your gear in a way that companies will be hesitant to warranty. You can hand wash your gear in the sink or throw it in the machine on the most gentle cycle. It is a good idea to yank rain gear out before the spin cycle, because water trapped on the inside of the garment is not going to spin off, just put unnecessary pressure on your membrane. A few shakes and a minute to drip should have your gear ready for the drier. Read the tag, and dry your gear as warm as it allows. Or just hang it in the breeze.

Take care of your DWR:

The coolest thing about brand new rain gear is that when you walk out in the rain (or spill your coffee on it) liquid beads up and rolls off like water off a ducks back. This has nothing to do with the membrane inside, but is due to a coating on the face fabric called a Durable Water Repellent (or DWR). If the membrane or coating on the inside of the fabric isthere to keep you dry, the DWR is there to keep the fabric dry. This is important because breathability depends on a vapor gradient; for the moisture to want to leave the inside of your jacket, the air outside must have less moisture in it than the air inside. But, if your DWR fails and the fabric “wets out,” directly on the other side of the micro-thin membrane is soaked, cold nylon, then vapor is not going to want to exit the garment. In fact, it is more likely to hit the chilled membrane and condense, leaving liquid moisture on the inside and making it feel for all the world like your jacket is leaking.

Brand new gear always has a great DWR coating, but time, wear, and contamination all take their toll on DWR. So wash your gear regularly, and dry it in the drier on as high a heat setting as the fabric will allow. This will help restore the efficacy of your DWR. If your clean jacket is still wetting out too quickly, retreatment might be necessary. Buy a treatment, like Revivex or TxDirect from Nikwax, and spray it on your garment after washing but before the drier. It will restore the coating and keep you more comfortable for longer.

編排整理 Edited: ACOTEX Fabric Talks 布料指南
Source: Denali

Happy Thanksgiving Everyone! 祝大家有個美好溫馨的感恩節!

Happy Thanksgiving Everyone!

祝大家有個美好溫馨的感恩節!

認識平織布 | What is Woven Fabric?

什麼是平織布?

布料的交織，是利用天然纖維、人造纖維或各種不同纖維混紡而成的紗線縱橫交坐而成。織品上縱向紗稱為經紗，橫向紗稱為緯紗，經紗與緯紗相互交錯的情況稱為織品組織。而因布料的交織方式不同，可分為平織布與針織布兩大類。

平織布，又稱平行織品或梭織布(中國大陸習慣稱呼)，透過平行的經紗與平行的緯紗，以直角相互交錯所組成的織品布料。相較於針織布，平織布通常較不具有彈性(不考慮加入彈性纖維的情況下)，但較為耐磨。

平織布的運用：

平織布在生活上的用途很廣泛，像是襯衫、西裝、牛仔褲、被單、窗簾、枕頭套、防水外套、外套內裡布、布質包包、布質行李箱等等。

平織布依其經緯紗交錯組織點的不同，又可分為平紋組織、斜紋組織和緞紋組織三種。

平紋組織(Plain Weave)示意圖

平紋組織(Plain Weave)

平紋組織的平織布的組織概念如右圖所示。

平紋組織是在各種組織中最簡單的一種，例如以四根橫向的經紗與四根直向的緯紗互相交織時，每根經紗與緯紗都會各有四個交錯點。

以原本平紋組織為基礎，增加或減少交錯支點的數目，或移動原本組織點的位置，或兩種同時施行時，即可做平紋組織的變化。



平紋組織布的變化形式有：

方平紋組織布
(Mat, Basket or Hopsack Weave)

• 經重平紋組織布(Wrap Rib Weave)
• 緯重平紋組織布(Weft Rib Weave)
• 變化重平紋組織布(Fancy Rib Weave)
• 花式重平紋組織布(Figured Rib Weave)
• 分區重平紋組織布(Oblique Rib Weave)
• 方平紋組織布(Mat, Basket or Hopsack Weave)
• 變化方平紋組織布(Fancy Mat Weave)

斜紋組織(Twill Weave)

斜紋組織的經緯紗並非每根連續相互上下交錯，而是經紗有時連續浮於(表面上)兩根或超過兩根緯紗的上面，或連續沉於(表面下)兩根或超過兩根緯紗的下面。最後布料織品表面上會斜向交錯構成斜紋線。

斜紋組織布料的浮數不相等或配置數不同時，組成的斜紋織品正反兩面的紋路肯定不同，這種兩面不同紋路的斜紋組織布料，我們稱之為單面斜紋組織(Uneven Sided Twill)。另外如果織品兩面浮出經緯數量配置與循環都相同的話，組成的斜紋織品正反兩面的紋路除了斜向相反之外，其他都會相同。此種組織稱為雙面斜紋組織(Even Sided Twill)。

斜紋組織布的變化形式有：

• 急斜紋組織布(Steep Twill or Diagonals)
• 緩斜紋組織布(Reclining Twill)
• 曲線斜紋組織布(Curved Twill)
• 破斜紋組織布(Broken Twill or Cross Twill)
• 夾花斜紋組織布(Fancy Twill)
• 混和斜紋組織布(Mixed Twill or Compound Twill)
• 撚斜紋組織布(Corkscrew Twill)
• 網形斜紋組織布(Entwing Twill)
• 陰陽斜紋組織布(Checked Twill or Dice Twill)
• 山形斜紋組織布(Point Twill)
• 菱形斜紋組織布(Diaper Twill)
• 陰影斜紋組織布(Shaded Twill)

上列圖示由左至右依序為：正斜紋、曲線斜紋、夾花斜紋、混和斜紋、網形斜紋、山形斜紋、菱形斜紋 和 陰影斜紋

緞紋組織(Satin Weave or Sateen Weave)

緞紋組織的組織點並不是連續的，而是以平均距離散佈在織品組織中。在布面組織中每一經或每一緯紗中僅有一個交錯的組織點，所以在三種平織布組織布料中，緞紋組織的表面特別平滑光亮，但耐磨力較弱。

緞紋組織布的變化形式有：

• 重緞子組織布(Double Satin)
• 花崗組織布(Granite Weave)
• 變則緞紋組織布(Irregular Satin)
• 陰陽緞紋組織布(Checked Satin)
• 陰影緞紋組織布(Shaded Satin)

另外，其他組織外觀或構造無法歸類到前三大項的特別組織還有：

• 蜂巢組織布(Honey Comb Weave)
• 白拉東蜂巢組織布(Brighton Honey Comb Weave)
• 海綿組織布(Sponge Weave)
• 浮組織布(Huckaback Weave)
• 仿紗羅組織布(Imiation Gauge or Mock Leno)
• 蜘蛛網組織布(Spider or Linear Zigzag Weave)

甚至還有更多新開發出來的布料組織。

[[ 歡迎轉載 轉載請註明來源 感謝 ]]

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Woven Fabrics

Woven fabrics are made by using two or more sets of yarn interlaced at right angles to each other. Much variety is produced by weaving. Woven fabrics are generally more durable. They can be easily cut into different shapes and are excellent for producing styles in garments. However the raw edges ravel or fray easily and need to be protected. Fabrics having more fabric count (number of wrap and weft yearns present) keep the shape well. Low count fabrics are less durable and may snag or stretch.

Woven fabrics are manufactured in different widths depending on the end use. The fabrics used for apparels usually contain 90 cms width. The Sheeting materials are generally made having a width of 160 cm/140cms and 150cms/180 cms.

Woven Fabric Types

Buckram

It is a stiff coated fabric made from a light weight loosely woven fabric, impregnated with adhesives and fillers. This fabric is used as interfacing so as to provide support and shape rentention to necklines, collars, belts, cuffs, waist bands, button closures etc in garments. They are also used as reinforcements for hand bags and other articles.

Cambric

Cambric a light weight fabric woven in plain weave and produced with a stiff finish. It is suitable for women's dresses and children's dresses that require crispness.

Casement

Casement is a medium weight cotton fabric made of closesly packed thick warp yarns. Generally it is used for curtains, tablelinen, upholstery and rarely used for dresses.

Cheese Cloth

It is popular light weight sheer fabric having open weave. It has a low count fabric consisting of carded yarns. Originally it was used for wrapping cheese or meat and hence the name. It is neither strong nor durable. It is finished in a variety of ways that attract the consumer. It is used not only for women's and children's dresses but also for drapery fabrics. Due to its open structure, it does not require much ironing.

Chiffon

Chiffon fabrics are sheer, light weight fabrics made of hard twisted yarns. Originally these are made in silk fabrics but today they are made from rayon or polyester. They are used for sarees and women's evening wear. The fabrics encounter with the problem of shrinkage.

Chintz

Chintz is a medium weight, plain woven cotton yarn. It is often given a glazed finish which may be temporary or semi permanent glazed chintz are available in solid colour as well as printed with floral prints. These are often made from blends of cotton and polyester or rayon. They are used for skits, dresses, blouses, pyjamas, aprons and draperies.

Corduroy

It is a cut pile fabric available in solid colours. The cut pile fibres are seen in the form of ribs on the surface. It is mainly used for pants, jeans and shirts.

Crepe

A silk fabric is originally characterised by a crinkle, puckered surface formed by highly twisted yarns in the warp or weft or both. By using ordinary yarns similar crepe effects can also be produced. Synthetic fabrics also impart crepe effect finish. It is used for sarees, shirts, women and children's dresses.

Denim

It was traditionally a yarn dyed, warp faced cotton twill fabric. Warp is usually coloured (mostly blue, maroon, green and brown) and weft is white. This fabric is made of two weights for sports wear and overalls. It's use as jeans has made it very popular and so the nature of denim is also changed to suit the trend. It is often napped, printed and made with stretch yarn.

Drill

It is a warp faced twill woven fabric. It has a stiff finish. Originally it was produced in white and now it is available in solid colours. It is mairly used for pants, knickers and uniforms.

Flannel

Flannel is a woollen fabric woven in plain or twill weave having characteristic soft handle. It looks like a bulky fabric due to the milling that is usually done to this fabric. Flannel fabric is used for suits and pants and infacnt's clothing.

This fabric is popular as cleaning fabric due to its extreme softness. This is also used to protect children from cold atmosphere.

Gabardine

Gabardine is a closely woven, clear finished warp faced twill fabric. It contains more number of warp yarns than weft yearns and also more durable. It is usually woven in 2/1 or 2/2 twill and has a raised diagonal twill effect on the right side. It largely used for rain coats, suitings and sports wear.

Georgette

Georgette is a sheer light weight fabric, woven in plain weave. It has a characteristic rough texture produced by hard twisted ply, yarns both in warp and weft. Originally it was made in silk, but today it is produced in rayon and polyester too.
It's mainly suitable for women's evening wear.

Kashmir Silk

Kashmir silk is a silk fabric produced in plain weave and is either embroidered or printed. The motifs used are characteristic of Kashmir. It is used for shirts, women's wear and sarees. Kashmir shawls are woven in twill weave and is usually embroidered with traditional Kashmiri embroidery.

Khadi

Khadi is a term used to a wide variety of fabics that are hand spun and hand woven. They are produced in mainly one cotton fibre, blends of two or more fibres. They are known for durability, and simplicity. The fabrics can be suitings dhoties overalls and household textiles.

Lawn

Lawn is a fine sheet, light weight, crisp fabric either made in cotton or linen. Various finishes are given to this fabric, in which the fabric is called by the name of the finish. It is mainly used as lining in dress.

Mulmul

It is an Indian term generally applied to fine cotton fabric slightly heavier, than muslin. These are often printed fabrics. They find use as sarees.

Muslin

Muslin is a light weight open cloth of plain weave. It may be used as grey or bleached and dyed. It is used as household textiles and dress materials.

Organdy Originally it is a lawn fabric which is given a stiff finish. Acid is used for this finish to make the fabric transparent and stiff. It is mainly used for women's wear.

Poplin

Poplin is a medium weight, cotton fabric hving a fine weft rib. it is generally used for shirting, dresses and upholstery.

Sheeting

These are primarily used for bed coverings. They are medium weight, closely woven fabrics woven eigther in plain or twin weave. Sheeting fabrics are made in different widths. High quality cotton sheetings are made in plain weve with a width of 64" x 58" and in twill weave with a width of 60"x72".

Taffeta Taffeta is a smooth, crisp, transparent fabric having a fine rib. Originally it is made with silk fibres but now it is also made in rayon. It has a characteristic finish which produces crispness. It is used as women's evening wear.

Tissue

It is a fine fabric either made in silk or man made fibre. They are characteristically interwoven with gold or silver threads. It is produced in rich colours and they are used as women's dress material, sarees etc.

Velvet

It is a warp cut pile fabric, originally made from silk. It is also produced in Rayon. The dense cut pile makes it very soft and lustrous. It is used as dress materials for women and children. It is also produced with special high twisted yarns which are single or ply yarns. Based on the yarns used and twist given, they are named as semi violes (single yarns1x1) full voiles. (ply yarns 2x2) or half voile (double in warp and single in weft 2x1).

編排整理 Edited: ACOTEX Fabric Talks 布料指南
資料來源: ACOTEX Fabric
Source: Textile School

ACOTEX® Cut Mens Winter Sports Jacket 蜂巢格運動冬季外套

MbX
ACOTEX® Cut Mens Winter Sports Jacket 蜂巢格運動冬季外套

MbX 機能性運動服飾品牌以棒壘球服飾的概念，設計出此款 ACOTEX® Cut Mens Winter Sports Jacket 蜂巢格運動冬季外套。此款蜂巢格運動冬季外套外層材質採用大蜂巢格系列的 ACOTEX® Cut 防風防水布料，確保最全面性的防護效果，搭配內層絨質內裡，讓愛好運動的朋友們也能在冬天盡情舒適的運動。


This ACOTEX® Cut Mens Winter Sports Jacket is developed based on the concepts of baseball and softball apparel. With large honeycomb pattern, the outerlayer ACOTEX® Cut fabric is built to prevent wind and wetness getting inside of the jacket with the sense of the fashion look.

保養方式： 可置於洗衣機，不須乾洗 (使用冷水洗滌即可) 避免使用漂白劑或衣物柔軟精等強效洗潔劑，以免破壞表面防潑水效果 可低溫整燙 避免長時間浸泡水中 自然風乾或放入烘乾機，選用中低溫烘乾 風乾後20~30分鐘，即可恢復防潑水效果

Care Instruction: Machine washable Avoid using chlorine bleach, fabric softeners or stain removers Can be ironed (warm, no steam) Avoid soaking in water or stay wet for a long period of time Line dry, or tumble with low heat if necessary The durable water-repellent(DWR) will be reactivated after 20~30 minutes

ACOTEX® Cut Honeycomb Winter Jacket 蜂巢格防風保暖外套 | Dali High School Edition 大理高中限定款

Taipei Dali High School Edition 台北市大理高中限定款

ACOTEX® Cut Honeycomb Winter Jacket 蜂巢格防風保暖外套

位於台北市萬華區的大理高中，長久以來以「大未來，理擔當」為學校願景，期望能培養學生成為身心健康、具修養的未來人才。大理高中對於學生外套品質的選擇與要求特別嚴謹，搭配沉穩傳統的風格設計，勾勒出大理高中的理念與師長對學生們的期許和關懷。這款大理高中限定款蜂巢格防風保暖外套外層材質採用大蜂巢格系列的 ACOTEX® Cut 防風防水布料，確保最全面性的防護效果，搭配內層絨質內裡，讓大理高中的學生們，擁有一個獨特與舒適溫暖的冬天。


With larger honeycomb pattern, the outerlayer ACOTEX® Cut is built to prevent wind and wetness getting inside of the jacket. This ACOTEX® Cut Dali High School edition Honeycomb Jacket is deal for all winter weather activities. Keeping you dry and warm.

大理高中限定款 大蜂巢格防風保暖夾克
Dali High School Edition Honeycomb Winter Jacket

保養方式： 可置於洗衣機，不須乾洗 (使用冷水洗滌即可) 避免使用漂白劑或衣物柔軟精等強效洗潔劑，以免破壞表面防潑水效果 可低溫整燙 避免長時間浸泡水中 自然風乾或放入烘乾機，選用中低溫烘乾 風乾後20~30分鐘，即可恢復防潑水效果

Care Instruction: Machine washable Avoid using chlorine bleach, fabric softeners or stain removers Can be ironed (warm, no steam) Avoid soaking in water or stay wet for a long period of time Line dry, or tumble with low heat if necessary The durable water-repellent(DWR) will be reactivated after 20~30 minutes

布料(服飾)印刷的種類 | Different Types of Fabric Prints

布料(服飾)印刷

布料或服飾印刷工作大多需要平整的布片供定位等用途，以確保需要的圖案會出現在想要的位置上。布匹平整之後依衣版進入裁片動作 → 布片印刷 → 印刷後經幾道車縫程序 → 進入成衣狀態 → 修線、整燙 → 包裝成品。過程較繁雜，這也是為什麼成衣製作通常只接收團體訂單，不容易接受散客的原因。

布料(服飾)印刷的種類：

市面上常用的布料(服飾)印刷的種類大致分成以下幾種
- 網版印刷
- 平板印刷
- 水印
- 膠印
- 轉印
- 發泡印
- 熱昇華印
- 直噴



網版印刷：

又稱透孔法(Porous )或油印法(stencil)，是印紋透空如孔的印刷方式，將油墨加在一張有細孔的網幕，油墨穿過細孔印到置於其下的紙張上，不需印刷的部位則在網幕上以人工或機械製成負片蠟版加以保護。因為常有用絹布為版材，所以也稱絹印，此種印刷主要用作藝術品上之用。網版印刷是一種多用途的印刷，可在紙張以外的其他材料，例如衣服、瓷磚、茶具、電器、大型看板、電路板、計算機、電腦及高科技相關產品等，上從事少量、多樣的印刷，也成為現代高科技電子行業不可或缺的一門技術。

平板印刷：

平版印刷其版面的印紋與非印紋部分無明顯的高低差別，而是利用水與油墨互相排斥的原理。印紋部分具有吸收油墨排斥水分的特性，而非印紋部分卻有吸收水分排斥油墨的性質。所以只要在版面上交替塗抹水和油墨，即可印刷。

水印：

也稱半油印，是網版印刷的一種方式。 相較於網版印刷，水印較環保、透氣度佳、適合印在白色t-shirt上，色彩簡單自然，且能保持衣服的彈性及柔軟，是很常見的印刷方式。但缺點是無法印在暗色及不平整的布料上。水印油墨比較液體，所以水印會透過面料，在面料反面會引出來。相較於膠印水印手感較柔軟。

膠印：

在採購膠印T-Shirt時需特別注意用料品質

平版印刷的一種，使用專業膠印油墨顏料經烘乾並經機器燙壓處理。膠印的特色是可用在各種顏色的T-shirt上，花色鮮艷層次分明，顏色細緻逼真。缺點是印在較薄的t-shirt上會顯得厚重，購買膠印T-shirt需注意店家用料品質，避免買到劣質品洗後圖案龜裂脫落，因為不同的原料印製出來的圖案差別很大。

轉印：

轉印是使用活性染料墨水或者酸性染料墨水，將圖案列印在熱轉印紙上，在高溫高壓下轉印花色的過程。從圖案設計完後需要經過布料前處理、固色、脫色、漂洗、烘乾、平整...等過程。熱轉印的優點是圖案表現的質感好，具有色感還原度高，耐腐蝕，圖像清晰，色彩鮮豔等優點，而熱轉印相較之下有手感較厚、長久清洗後脫落掉色等，此外在淺色衣服上的表現效果會比深色衣服的效果好。不過拜現在科技進步，轉印的缺點已經大幅改善。

而熱轉印又因轉印耗材不同分為：熱昇華轉印、淺色紡織品轉印紙轉印、深色紡織品轉印紙轉印、植絨轉印紙轉印、亮片轉印紙轉印、彩鑽轉印紙轉印以及各式雷射碳粉轉印紙轉印。

發泡印：

發泡印又稱「立體印花」，是一種具有特殊效果的印花技術。將含有發泡劑的樹脂塗料色漿印到布料上以後，經高溫汽蒸，所印的圖案會膨脹發起泡來，呈浮雕效果。發泡印的特色是立體感很好，可以凸顯圖案的膨脹。但缺點是不耐磨，若發泡高度高，牢度可能會稍微降低。

熱昇華轉印：

熱昇華轉印是利用熱昇華墨水加熱達到特定的溫度時，染料會由固態直接變成汽態的原理。此種汽態的染料能輕易的進入已被加熱放大的 polymer 的孔隙中，並待溫度下降後，染料再度還原成固態，同時 polymer 的表面孔隙關閉將染料夾持在 polymer 中形成影像，顏色均可完全的滲入轉印物的表面中，與傳統的貼紙完全不同，不管視覺與觸感皆一流 。其特色是無膠感厚度、色彩鮮艷精緻(適合淺色布料)，牢度佳、透氣度佳，適合表現豐富的彩色圖案。但因為對天然纖維很難著色，所以不適合印製在全棉質料的衣物上。

直噴印刷：

直噴屬於滲透印花，使用大型平台直噴機搭配紡織專用水性顏料直接噴染進棉布的纖維裡，再經過高溫熱燙來固色。直噴印刷的特色是無須開版，打樣快速，能呈現照片效果，色彩細膩明亮。但是成本較高，而且比較適合運用於淺色的棉布上。

Different Types of Fabric Prints

Preparation of cloth for printing:

Goods intended for calico printing ought to be exceptionally well-bleached, otherwise stains, and other serious defects, are certain to arise during subsequent operations.
The chemical preparations used for special styles will be mentioned in their proper places; but a general prepare, employed for most colours that are developed and fixed by steaming only, consists in passing the bleached calico through a weak solution of sulfated or turkey red oil containing from 21/2 per cent, to 5 per cent, of fatty acid. Some colours are printed on pure bleached cloth, but all patterns containing alizarine red, rose and salmon shades, are considerably brightened by the presence of oil, and indeed very few, if any, colours are detrimentally affected by it.
Apart from wet preparations the cloth has always to be brushed, to free it from loose nap, flocks and dust that it picks up whilst stored. Frequently, too, it has to be sheared by being passed over rapidly revolving knives arranged spirally round an axle, which rapidly and effectually cuts off all filaments and knots, leaving the cloth perfectly smooth and clean and in a condition fit to receive impressions of the most delicate engraving. Some figured fabrics, especially those woven in checks, stripes and crossovers, require very careful stretching and straightening on a special machine, known as a stenter, before they can be printed with certain formal styles of pattern which are intended in one way or another to correspond with the cloth pattern. Finally, all descriptions of cloth are wound round hollow wooden or iron centers into rolls of convenient size for mounting on the printing machines.

Screen printing:

Screen printing is a printing technique that uses a woven mesh to support an ink-blocking stencil to receive a desired image. The attached stencil forms open areas of mesh that transfer ink or other printable materials which can be pressed through the mesh as a sharp-edged image onto a substrate. A fill blade or squeegee is moved across the screen stencil, forcing or pumping ink into the mesh openings for transfer by capillary action during the squeegee stroke. Basically, it is the process of using a stencil to apply ink on to a substrate, whether it be t-shirts, posters, stickers, vinyl, wood, or other material.
Screen printing is also a stencil method of print making in which a design is imposed on a screen of polyester or other fine mesh, with blank areas coated with an impermeable substance. Ink is forced into the mesh openings by the fill blade or squeegee and on to the printing surface during the squeegee stroke. It is also known as silkscreen, serigraphy, and serigraph printing. One colour is printed at a time, so several screens can be used to produce a multicoloured image or design.

Engraved copperplate printing:

The printing of textiles from engraved copperplates was first practiced in the United Kingdom by Thomas Bell in 1770. The presses first used were of the ordinary letterpress type, the engraved plate being fixed in the place of the type. In later improvements the well-known cylinder press was employed; the plate was inked mechanically and cleaned off by passing under a sharp blade of steel; and the cloth, instead of being laid on the plate, was passed round the pressure cylinder. The plate was raised into frictional contact with the cylinder and in passing under it transferred its ink to the cloth. The great difficulty in plate printing was to make the various impressions join up exactly; and, as this could never be done with any certainty, the process was eventually confined to patterns complete in one repeat, and was made obsolete by roller printing.

Roller printing, cylinder printing, or machine printing:

This elegant and efficient process was patented and worked by Bell in 1785 only fifteen years after his application of the engraved plate to textiles. Bell's first patent was for a machine to print six colours at once, but, owing probably to its incomplete development, this was not immediately successful, although the principle of the method was shown to be practical by the printing of one colour with perfectly satisfactory results. The difficulty was to keep the six rollers, each carrying a portion of the pattern, in perfect register with each other. This defect was soon overcome by Adam Parkinson of Manchester, and in 1785, the year of its invention, Bells machine with Parkinson's improvement was successfully employed by Messrs Livesey, Hargreaves and Company of Bamber Bridge, Preston, for the printing of calico in from two to six colours at a single operation.
The advantages possessed by roller printing over other contemporary processes were three: firstly, its high productivity, 10,000 to 12,000 yards being commonly printed in one day of ten hours by a single-colour machine; secondly, by its capacity of being applied to the reproduction of every style of design, ranging from the fine delicate lines of copperplate engraving and the small repeats and limited colours of the perrotine to the broadest effects of block printing and to patterns varying in repeat from I to 80 in.; and thirdly, the wonderful exactitude with which each portion of an elaborate multicolour pattern can be fitted into its proper place without faulty joints at its points of repetition.

Stencil printing:

The art of stenciling is not new. It has been applied to the decoration of textile fabrics from time immemorial by the Japanese, and, of late years, has found increasing employment in Europe for certain classes of decorative work on woven goods for furnishing purposes.
The pattern is cut out of a sheet of stout paper or thin metal with a sharp-pointed knife, the uncut portions representing the part that is to be reserved or left uncoloured. The sheet is now laid on the material to be decorated and colour is brushed through its interstices.
It is obvious that with suitable planning an all over pattern may be just as easily produced by this process as by hand or machine printing, and that moreover, if several plates are used, as many colours as plates may be introduced into it. The peculiarity of stenciled patterns is that they have to be held together by ties, that is to say, certain parts of them have to be left uncut, so as to connect them with each other, and prevent them from falling apart in separate pieces. For instance, a complete circle cannot be cut without its center dropping out, and, consequently, its outline has to be interrupted at convenient points by ties or uncut portions. Similarly with other objects. The necessity for ties exercises great influence on the design, and in the hands of a designer of indifferent ability they may be very unsightly. On the other hand, a capable man utilizes them to supply the drawing, and when thus treated they form an integral part of the pattern and enhance its artistic value whilst complying with the conditions and the process.
For single-colour work a stenciling machine was patented in 1894 by S. H. Sharp. It consists of an endless stencil plate of thin sheet steel that passes continuously over a revolving cast iron cylinder. Between the two the cloth to be ornamented passes and the colour is forced on to it, through the holes in the stencil, by mechanical means.

Digital textile printing:

Digital textile printing, often referred to as direct to garment printing, DTG printing, and digital garment printing is a process of printing on textiles and garments using specialized or modified inkjet technology. Inkjet printing on fabric is also possible with an inkjet printer by using fabric sheets with a removable paper backing. Today major inkjet technology manufacturers can offer specialized products designed for direct printing on textiles, not only for sampling but also for bulk production. Since the early 1990s, inkjet technology and specially developed water-based ink (known as dye-sublimation or disperse direct ink) has offered the possibility of printing directly onto polyester fabric. This is mainly related to visual communication in retail and brand promotion (flags, banners and other point of sales applications). Printing onto nylon and silk can be done by using an acid ink. Reactive ink is used for cellulose based fibers, such as cotton and linen. Using inkjet technology in digital textile printing allows for single pieces, mid-run production and even long-run alternatives to screen printed fabric.

編排整理 Edited: ACOTEX Fabric Talks 布料指南
資料來源: 網路彙整

ACOTEX® Extreme Mens Furio Winter Jacket 男款冬季防水外套

Fox Friend
ACOTEX® Extreme Mens Furio Winter Jacket 男款冬季防水外套

台灣橋登Fox Friend對產品品質要求特別嚴謹，車縫手工精緻，每一英吋橋登公司都要求14針以上的車縫。搭配上輕巧成熟時尚的剪裁設計，為台灣的冬天增添一份流行穩重。外層布料採用 ACOTEX® Extreme 高防水透濕布料，兼具高度防水、高度透濕、防風、撥水等功能。ACOTEX® Extreme Mens Furio Winter Jacket 男款冬季防水外套擁有全面性的防護，就算再惡劣的天氣環境也無法侵入 ACOTEX® Extreme 高機能性布料的保護。


With the most abrasion resistance, most breathable and most waterproof fabric in ACOTEX Fabrics, ACOTEX® Extreme are built for extreme and extended outdoor activities garments. Ideal for skiing, snowboarding, fishing, watersports, hunting, climbing, motorcycling or mountaineering. This ACOTEX® Extreme Mens Furio Winter Jacket by Fox Friend Taiwan meets all the demands of professional outdoor activities and serious enthusiasts.

保養方式： 可置於洗衣機，不須乾洗 (使用冷水洗滌即可) 避免使用漂白劑或衣物柔軟精等強效洗潔劑，以免破壞表面防潑水效果 可低溫整燙 避免長時間浸泡水中 自然風乾或放入烘乾機，選用中低溫烘乾 風乾後20~30分鐘，即可恢復防潑水效果

Care Instruction: Machine washable Avoid using chlorine bleach, fabric softeners or stain removers Can be ironed (warm, no steam) Avoid soaking in water or stay wet for a long period of time Line dry, or tumble with low heat if necessary The durable water-repellent(DWR) will be reactivated after 20~30 minutes

ACOTEX® Cut Unisex Golf Windbreaker 高爾夫防風輕薄外套

NU 恩悠
ACOTEX® Cut Unisex Golf Windbreaker 高爾夫防風輕薄外套

NU 恩悠服飾設計團隊，特別為高爾夫球愛好者開發，獨一無二的運動外套，質料採用 ACOTEX® Cut 防風及防撥水功能性布料，能在運動時有效擋風保溫，防風隔絕風寒效應；可當作中層衣來穿，尤其是輕裝或輕型運動。採用 ACOTEX® Cut 獨家專利3D編織技術和防風的表布結合，增加汗水隔離的作用，加速汗水乾爽速度，適合做為高爾夫、健行、騎車、旅行等各種活動的多功能風衣。


A more stylish and fitted take on the classic windbreaker. This ACOTEX® Cut Unisex Golf Windbreaker by NU is special designed for Golf lovers. With some functional material with featured 3D weaving technique, ACOTEX® Cut fabric is giving athletes a comprehensive protection on windproof, water repellent and lightweight. Keeping you dry and comfortable during dynamic activities.

保養方式： 可置於洗衣機，不須乾洗 (使用冷水洗滌即可) 避免使用漂白劑或衣物柔軟精等強效洗潔劑，以免破壞表面防潑水效果 可低溫整燙 避免長時間浸泡水中 自然風乾或放入烘乾機，選用中低溫烘乾 風乾後20~30分鐘，即可恢復防潑水效果

Care Instruction: Machine washable Avoid using chlorine bleach, fabric softeners or stain removers Can be ironed (warm, no steam) Avoid soaking in water or stay wet for a long period of time Line dry, or tumble with low heat if necessary The durable water-repellent(DWR) will be reactivated after 20~30 minutes

認識彈性纖維 | What is Spandex?

認識彈性纖維

彈性纖維，在台灣一般習稱為『OP』，而日本稱之為『PU』，歐美國家稱之為Lycra或是Spandex。由美國杜邦公司於1959年發明。其具有很強的彈性，伸展度可達500%，且能回復原樣，比橡膠的強度更大，也更耐磨。當它第一次面世的時候，徹底改變了服裝行業的許多領域。

依據ISO 2076或DIN60001，彈性纖維(Elastan fibers)是由重量85%以上之鏈結聚胺基甲酸酯(Segmented Polyurethane)組成之線性大分子合成纖維。在美國則以"Spandex"著稱，Elastan纖維與合成橡膠纖維同樣被歸類為高彈性纖維(elastomeric fibers)因化學組成之故，此類纖維均具高變形性，也就是斷裂伸度自200%以上，通常在400-800%之間，且當外力釋放時可以很快速恢復至原來長度。 纖維具有類似彈簧般的外觀形狀，織物經染整定型處理後，更增加自發捲縮的彈性特性(Self Crimp)，賦予織物良好伸縮彈性、彈性回覆率佳及蓬鬆感。 具有低溫可染的特性，染色溫度115-130℃，可與Cotton、Acetate等天然纖維或Polyester、Nylon等人造纖維交織使用，或用於Hard core包紗等用途。染整後纖維具自然翻轉現象使織物表面呈現自然粗細的外觀色調，適用於針織、平織(梭織)等織物組織。


彈性纖維的產品應用與用途：

外套/夾克/高密度針織物/外衣布料/休閒類/時裝/套裝/帽子/褲襪/護膝/毛巾/運動衣褲。

彈性布料已成為年輕族群流行服飾和運動服是必備條件，針織布廠可以將彈性纖維直接與一般纖維織造成布料，梭織布廠則無法用彈性纖維裸紗直接織造，故先將彈性纖維(軟紗：如Lycra)與一般非彈性紗(硬紗：如聚酯、尼龍、棉、毛、麻等)結合，此種結合二種以上的紗稱為複合紗(Composited Yarn)，亦即市場上常聽到的「包紗(Covered Yarn)」。

(前往了解聚酯纖維和尼龍)

什麼是彈性包覆紗？

彈性包覆紗，故名思議，為彈性絲包覆紗線之意，而彈性絲則為俗稱 Spandex(OP)，其性質有如橡膠般之高彈性及伸縮性，其拉伸強度、拉伸應力、耐磨損性、耐老化性、耐化學藥品性上均較橡膠更為優越。彈性包覆紗即是將少量彈性纖維(比例大約5-20%)與其他主要硬紗種類一起混紡使用。硬紗種類在長纖部分有尼龍原絲、或尼龍加工絲，聚脂纖維，人工模仿蠶絲，而短纖的部分，則有棉花，亞克利，嫘縈等等。
而彈性紗包覆紗的種類以傳統包覆紗(Conventional Covering Yarn)和空氣包覆紗(Air-Jet Covered/Intermingled Yarn)為主。由於彈性包覆紗可令織物在觸感與外感不同於傳統織物，故在各類紡織品上都有應用，如平織品、經織品、針織品均有採用，從內衣到外衣，蕾絲帶到襪子，家庭紡織品到醫療用品皆應用的上。

MbX 推出的彈性緊身衣
Spandex(Elastane) Shirt by MbX

彈性纖維的製造過程：

彈性纖維(Elastane)是唯一以複絲型態出現之化學纖維。其製造方法主要有乾式法(Dry Spinning)、濕式法(Wet Spinning)、熔融法(Melting Spinning)以及反應型(Reactive Spinning)。其中80%以上彈性纖維製造係使用乾式紡絲法。一般而言，彈性纖維係由二異氰酸酯與二元醇反應之聚胺基甲酸酯所製成。

最近發展的熔融紡絲(Melt Spinning)彈性纖維因不需使用溶劑而漸受重視。為了能達到乾式紡絲彈性纖維硬鏈中順向聚尿結構的熱性質，熔融紡絲之彈性聚合體必須用較多的二異氰酸酯或多官能基之二異氰酸酯化學上交鏈。倘若欲獲得較佳之特性，熔融紡彈性體需要經熱後處理。Kuraray所生產之"Spantel"是最近發展出來的產品，"Spantel"是聚胺基甲酸酯彈性體具有聚酯乙二醇軟鏈，其與傳統聚酯彈性體比較，Spantel具有抗水解之優點。

對於彈性纖維布料的測試，在德國標準DIN 53835 T.2中，已有明確的規範。
以下就幾個彈性纖維的特性名稱先加以定義和說明：

1. 拉伸阻力：顧名思義拉伸阻力即拉伸彈性纖維所受到之負荷力，AB曲線代表第一次拉伸及回縮，A'B'則代表第五次拉伸與回縮，一般Spandex cycle test都是測試連續拉伸回縮五次之後強伸度之變化。


2. 應力衰變(Stress Decay)：係指Spandex在特定伸度下，長時間拉伸所產生之應力衰變情況，彈性纖維之應力衰變係隨Spandex伸度的增加而增大，通常試驗方法規定拉伸之300%伸度往返五次之下觀察第一次與第五次之應力衰變情況，如圖BB'所示，大部份之應力衰變都發生在前30秒內，經過5分鐘其應力衰減漸不明顯，此係因纖維內分子鏈的延緩重新結合，及重新排列所致，但這種現象是可逆的，經過一般時間之後，俟纖維內部分子鏈重新組合後，Spandex應可恢復至原鬆弛情況。


3. 握持(或回復力)：係指Spandex材質回復至其原來長度的能力，此特性用來評估Spandex織物保持原狀之能力。


4. 變形率：係指經五次cycle test所產生之變形，即AC'，此特性可用以評估Spandex內部分子鏈重新排列及再結合能力。


5. 遲滯現象(Hysterisis)：用來描述延遲或拉伸回復時應力應變性，遲滯現象初期的拉伸回復下並不顯現，但在五次往復作用後就漸趨穩定，遲滯曲線係紡織用材料在受力負載與外力釋放時所顯現的行為，遲滯現象迴圈之大小可用以表示纖維吸收與釋放所需之能量。

Spandex(Elastane)

Spandex or elastane is a synthetic fiber known for its exceptional elasticity. It is strong, but less durable than its major non-synthetic competitor, natural latex. It is a polyurethane-polyurea copolymer that was invented in 1959 by chemists C. L. Sandquist and Joseph Shivers at DuPont's Benger Laboratory in Waynesboro, Virginia. When first introduced, it revolutionized many areas of the clothing industry.

The name "spandex" is an anagram of the word "expands". It is the preferred name in North America; in continental Europe it is referred to by variants of "elastane", i.e. elasthanne (France), elastan (Germany), elastano (Spain and Portugal), elastam (Italy) and Elasthaan (Holland), and is known in the UK, Ireland, Argentina, Australia and New Zealand primarily as Lycra. Brand names for spandex include Lycra (made by Koch subsidiary Invista, previously a part of DuPont), Elaspan (also Invista), Acepora (Taekwang), Creora (Hyosung), ROICA and Dorlastan (Asahi Kasei), Linel (Fillattice), and ESPA (Toyobo).

Spandex fibers are produced in four different ways: melt extrusion, reaction spinning, solution dry spinning, and solution wet spinning. All of these methods include the initial step of reacting monomers to produce a prepolymer. Once the prepolymer is formed, it is reacted further in various ways and drawn out to make the fibers. The solution dry spinning method is used to produce over 94.5% of the world's spandex fibers.

Step 1: The first step is to produce the prepolymer. This is done by mixing a macroglycol with a diisocyanate monomer. The two compounds are mixed in a reaction vessel to produce a prepolymer. A typical ratio of glycol to diisocyanate is 1:2.

Step 2: The prepolymer is further reacted with an equal amount of diamine. This reaction is known as chain extension reaction. The resulting solution is diluted with a solvent (DMAc) to produce the spinning solution. The solvent helps make the solution thinner and more easily handled, and then it can be pumped into the fibre production cell.

Step 3: The spinning solution is pumped into a cylindrical spinning cell where it is cured and converted into fibres. In this cell, the polymer solution is forced through a metal plate called a spinneret. This causes the solution to be aligned in strands of liquid polymer. As the strands pass through the cell, they are heated in the presence of a nitrogen and solvent gas. This process causes the liquid polymer to react chemically and form solid strands.

Step 4: As the fibres exit the cell, an amount of solid strands are bundled together to produce the desired thickness. Each fibre of spandex is made up of many smaller individual fibres that adhere to one another due to the natural stickiness of their surface.

Step 5: The resulting fibres are then treated with a finishing agent which can be magnesium stearate or another polymer. This treatment prevents the fibres' sticking together and aids in textile manufacture. The fibres are then transferred through a series of rollers onto a spool.

編排整理 Edited: ACOTEX Fabric Talks 布料指南

認識針織布 | What is Knitted Fabric?

認識針織布料

我們常見到太太小姐們在閒暇時，拿起細小的棒子，一針一鈎地把毛線編織成各種衣帽及飾品，針織的原力就和這種手工編織的原理一樣。現代的針織機，就是根據這種手工編織原理，使一根紗線穿過一個針圈(Loop)，並使這個原先的針圈脫離針鉤，而原先穿過針圈的那根紗繞於針柄上，另成一個新的針圈，如此循環而織成了我們日常穿著的針織衣物。

針織布有伸縮性是因為如上所述，針織是由線圈交套而成，紗線中彼此空隙較大，所以，所以與平織布料相較起來，針織布較容易通風且容易拉伸延展及回復。

針織布料的特性是什麼？

針織布料相較於一般布料質地較柔軟、容易透風透氣、彈性較高。生產上速度較快產量高。

常見的針織布產品：

POLO杉、T-Shirt(T恤)、圍巾、手套、毛衣、運動衣、運動外套、運動褲、襪子、泳衣、椅套等。

針織布料結構示意圖
Knitted Fabric Structure

針織布料的種類：

針織布料主要分成圓編、經編、橫編

• 圓編：其線環圓展是緯向串連，可分為單面布、羅紋布、雙面布、提花布等；最常用於生產內衣產品。
• 經編：先行整經而達編織，經編組成，乃由經線左右組環，縱向套接。如洞洞布
• 橫編：其線環圓展是緯向串連，一般織物有織毛衣片、POLO衫領片、袖口片等。

常見的針織布料組織分類：

• 單面布 SINGLE JERSEY : 用在夏季上衣比較多，你可以看正面布紋一條條直向織紋，背面布紋與正面不同呈漩渦狀；這種布的特性是薄，洗過後除左右接縫可以會往後或往前偏移外，不會有多大問題。


• 羅紋布 RIB : 有區分為1*1, 2*2或 A*B 都有，市面上用最多的應該是1*1 羅紋， 1*1你可以看正面與反面呈一凸一凹的直向織紋，若是2*2就是正面與背面呈2凸2凹，若3*1則是正面是呈3凸1凹，背面則是3凹一凸；此類布最大特色在拉力奇好，同一尺寸胖的人還是可以穿的，但注意超過拉力後布性可能無法回復原性，所以用洗衣機洗時務必要裝在洗衣袋內洗，以免在洗衣機內拉扯衣服變形。


• 雙面布 INTERLOCK ：就是正面跟反面布紋都一樣呈一條條直向織紋，此布本身彈性較羅紋布小，布性穩定，比較不會變型，但厚度上會比單面布厚，所以用在春秋款的上衣居多。 


• PK布 PICQUE：多用於POLO衫。


• 魚鱗布 FRENCH TERRY：看字面就知道，此類布背面有點像魚鱗般的紗紋， 多用在冬天厚衣服或休閒服上。


• 刷毛布POLAR FLEECE：多用在冬天外套或上衣，有保暖效果，有分單面刷毛或雙面刷毛，此類有些會起毛球有些不會，端看刷毛後是否有在作抗起毛球加工處理，此類衣物因為有經刷毛處理，所以表面容易沾粘毛屑，所以你會發現黑色衣服上常看到白色或其他色的屑屑黏在上面。

 

自動針織機

Automatic Knitting Machine

Knitted Fabrics

Knitting is the construction of an elastic, porous fabric, created by interlocking yarns by means of needles. Knitted fabrics can be made much more quickly and easily than woven fabrics at comparatively less cost. Knitted fabrics are generally light in weight, comfortable in wear even during travel, but yet require little care to keep their neat appearance. The tendency of knits to resist wrinkling is another factor to boost up their popularity. Knitted fabrics are used for designing active clothing such as sports clothing. Their elastic nature permits for abundant physical activity. Knitted fabrics are produced by two general methods. Warp knitting and weft knitting. They are made as flat or tubular fabrics depending on the end use. Tubular fabrics may not have any seams at the sides where as flat fabrics are treted just like woven fabrics.
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Knitted Fabric Types

Jersey Knit

These fabrics are weft knitted and are characterised by distinct but flat vertical lines on the face and dominant horizontal ribs on the reverse side. Fancy varieties are also produced. They are used in making hoisery sweaters, sports wear etc.

Rib knits

These fabrics are made by using rib stitch with two sets of needles. These fabrics are used where stretch is desired as they show excellent degree of elasticity. Rib knits are warm to wear. They are used as apparels such as shirts, blouses, body stockings etc.

Double knit

Double knits are produced by the interlock stitch. The fabrics is riblike in appearance on both the sides. Decorative fabrics are also produced by jacquard attachment. These fabrics show good dimensional stability and are easy to cut and sew. They do not require any seam finishes as the fabric does not ravel. They are firm, heavier, less stretchable and more resilient. Double knits are commonly made from polyester, cetate or wool fibres. They find use as every durable apparels.

Knitted fur fabrics

A wide range of knitted fur fabrics are available in the market. The fabrics are produced by pile knitting. The extra set of soft filament yarns used form the pile on the surface of the fabric. The pile is cut and the fabric are finished similar to the original fur. These fabrics are mainly used for coats and trimmings for other dresses.

編排整理 Edited: ACOTEX Fabric Talks 布料指南

如何挑選帳篷材質? | What Is The Best Tent Material?

如何挑選帳篷材質?

刮風、下雨、寒冷、昆蟲、沙塵等野外可能會遇到的狀況。如果有人問你為什麼到郊外露營需要帶帳篷，上列幾項是很好的理由。在曠野中，帳篷提供了一個不受干擾的地方，而且一旦關上帳篷後，在心理上也有無形的安全感。所以在挑選帳棚時，消費者經常會問，如何挑選帳棚的材質？何種材料才是製作帳篷最好的布料材質呢？


選購帳篷材質的重點

在挑選帳篷布料材質時，不外乎有幾項重點：輕巧、防水、透氣、耐磨和抗紫外線等。一般市面上帳篷的布料原料的選用多半為尼龍(Nylon)、聚氨酯(Polyurethane)或聚酯纖維(Polyester)等人造纖維材質。一般來說，防水透氣功能優越的帳篷通常是雙層帳篷，即同時具有外帳和內帳的帳篷，外帳起防水作用(防水能力越強越好)，內帳起透氣作用，讓人體呼出及散發的氣體排出帳篷。當然，在帳篷的布料材質上，製作工法的細膩度也是關鍵，像是接縫車縫線等等。



依照上面挑選帳篷的重點，下面來了解一下各種帳篷的布料:

• 尼龍(Nylon): 張力強，色澤鮮豔光滑，不易褪色，且質地柔軟，又具有良好的強度，不易發黴，也不會蟲蛀，吸濕性小，遇凍不硬化，是目前使用最廣的質料。尤其是丹尼數較小的尼龍，質地更加柔軟光滑。


• 牛津布: 是一種尼龍仿棉織物，質地柔軟光滑且耐磨，通常用作帳底。


• 滌塔夫: 具備良好的透氣性，且有一定的保溫能力，通常用做內帳材質居多。


• 帆布: 防水性強，隔熱效果較好，太陽照射時不易炙熱，但質地較硬且重量較重，會受潮吸水且容易發黴及褪色，經濟效益已不如尼龍。


• TC布: 所謂TC布就是T(俗稱特多龍tetoron)與C(俗稱cotton)混紡的布料，系在經紗部份織以特多龍,緯紗部份織以棉紗而合成為TC布，故兼具了兩者的特性，耐磨，耐用強度佳，透氣性好質地結實，多用於中大型的家庭帳篷。


• 絲芙綢: 系尼龍與Rayon混紡的布料，因此合成以後具有尼龍與Rayon的特性，布面光滑，透氣性佳，但耐用度及強度不如純尼龍來得好，多用於大陸型的寒冷氣候裏，如在寒冷的天氣下關緊營門的同時也必須能夠散發帳內的水蒸氣，才不致於太悶或濕度太重，因此必須重用到本布料。


• CORETEX: 是美國新科技下的產物，它能夠透氣，又能夠防水、重量輕、耐磨、耐用。只是價格成本較昂貴。

為什麼不用GORE-TEX或類似的防水透氣布料材料做帳篷？

相信這是很多人會問的問題，GORE-TEX的防水能力達到20000mm，且具備透氣性，可以因此省略內帳，減輕帳篷重量，豈不是很好嗎？

但是GORE-TEX材料的帳篷至今只有寥寥幾款，有人認為是出於防火的考慮，但實際上幾乎所有的帳篷尼龍都是極易燃燒的。是出於成本嗎？對於花費動輒數十萬美圓計的專業登山隊來說，一頂幾千美圓的帳篷也不算太貴。

某戶外品牌的創始人曾經發表過他的親身經歷，當他帶著自己設計製作的GORE-TEX帳篷在喀什米爾地區旅行時，早晨醒來發現自己幾乎睡在冰窟裏，結霜過於嚴重，GORE-TEX材料或這類的高防水布料的確可以有效排出人身體排出的濕氣，但不要忘了，通過嘴巴和鼻子排出的濕氣要遠遠超過身體所排出的，GORE-TEX或是這類的高防水布料的透氣透濕速率還遠遠達不到要求，這正是只有GORE-TEX服裝而沒有GORE-TEX帳篷的根本原因。

當然出於極端的考慮，一些高山單層帳採用了防水透氣的Epic、CONDUIT、ToddTex等材料，也是為了因應極度惡劣環境不得已的選擇。

What is the best tent material?

This know-how chapter will help you understand the characteristics of tent fabrics and help decide upon the best tent material for your camping or tenting situation. The best tent fabric will be light and durable, water resistant and breathable.

Regardless of fabric, tent seams should be double-stitched and reinforced at key stress points.

Nylon

Nylon is an excellent tent fabric because it is strong and durable. At the same time, it is lightweight and easily waterproofed.

Uncoated nylon is water-resistant, but not waterproof, because water can pass through gaps between the woven fibres. To prevent that, nylon material is coated in large spools with polyurethane. The polyurethane coating seals out most water, making nylon tents weatherproof. It effectively seals the material, but it also greatly reduces the breathability of the fabric.

Many smaller tents also have floors made of treated, thus water-resistant nylon. However, a waterproof barrier of some type (i.e. polyethylene or vinyl tarps) should be placed under nylon floor tents.

Rip-Stop Nylon

Rip-stop nylon has the same characteristics as regular nylon. The one main addition is a heavier fibre woven into the fabric every dozen or so stitches. The idea is that if a tear starts, the resistance that the heavier fibre provides will stop the rip sooner. Rip-stop nylon is recognizable by its obvious grid pattern on the fabric.

Nylon is the most popular and widely used tent fabric. It is durable and lightweight, resists tearing and naturally sheds water.

Choose a nylon tent if you are a summer, winter or three-season camper who is hiking or biking and needs a lightweight tent that can be pitched and taken down on a daily basis.

Polyester

The qualities of polyester are nearly identical to nylon, but resists UV exposure better than nylon. However, it can tend to be heavy.

Choose a polyester tent fabric if you’re setting up in a campground where you are planning to stay for a longer period.

編排整理 Edited: ACOTEX Fabric Talks 布料指南

ACODRY® Pro Mens Training Tights 男款訓練緊身長褲

MbX
ACODRY® Pro Mens Training Tights 男款訓練緊身長褲

MbX為特別喜愛運動的您所開發。貼身的立體剪裁，給您合身零距離的感受，搭配四針並縫接線，勾勒出動感線條。材質採用 ACODRY® Pro 長效型布料，具有吸濕、快乾、透氣、抗菌、防臭和抗UV等功能，並以革命性的技術鎖住布料的功能性，讓舒適度不因洗滌次數而漸漸降低。ACODRY® Pro Mens Training Tights 男款訓練緊身長褲讓您在進行運動訓練時，同時享受長效舒適的體驗。


The MbX ACODRY® Pro Mens Training Tights are made with ACODRY® Pro durable fast moisture-wicking performance fabric that holds muscles for prime performance under pressure. Compression fit and stretch fabric for support and natural range of motion, and with flat seams stitches to minimize chafing during active.

保養方式： 可置於洗衣機，不須乾洗 (使用溫水或冷水洗滌即可) 避免使用漂白劑或衣物柔軟精等強效洗潔劑，以免破壞布料功能 避免長時間浸泡水中 自然風乾或放入烘乾機，選用中低溫烘乾 風乾後20~30分鐘，即可恢復吸濕排汗效果

Care Instruction: Machine washable Avoid using chlorine bleach, fabric softeners or stain removers Avoid soaking in water or stay wet for a long period of time Line dry, or tumble with low heat if necessary The durable water-repellent(DWR) will be reactivated after 20~30 minutes

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(了解更多ACODRY® Pro機能布料)

認識發熱衣 | What Are Heat Tech Clothing?

認識發熱衣

許多人都很好奇，而發熱衣的原理究竟是什麼？什麼是「發熱」？而什麼是「保暖」？。

發熱≠保暖，消費者請先區分清楚！

發熱衣的廣大商機讓今年度加入戰場的業者增加，舉凡發熱衣、昇（升）溫衣、暖暖衣、極暖衣等相似、相近的名稱商品紛紛出籠。但是發熱衣不等於保暖衣，一般的衣物皆有禦寒的效果，保暖效力依服飾本身的織品材質不同而有所差異，例如羊毛、蠶絲等動物性纖維，保溫效果就會高於棉、麻類及人工纖維。

衣服的「保暖」功能讓身體的體溫不會流失，以達到禦寒的效果，溫度的保持是屬於較被動的形式。而發熱衣的定義應該是衣服本身能「主動」提供人體的溫度，「保溫」是基本配備，「昇溫、發熱」才是此類衣物的功能訴求。當發熱衣成為冬天最夯的商品時，為增加買氣及提高銷售量，連普通的衛生衣、保暖衣也紛紛在名稱標題上冠上昇溫、發熱、蓄熱、保溫等容易讓人混淆的字眼，若業者無法提出有力證據證明其升溫效果，而只是將名稱取的很酷炫，也僅是行銷手法，有欺騙消費者之嫌。

人造纖維的發熱衣原理是什麼？

其發熱的原理主要可歸類成以下幾種：
1.纖維吸濕放熱：
吸濕發熱纖維的原理為當汗氣、水氣接觸到這類纖維時，會吸收凝結濕氣並釋放凝結熱，如中空纖維、丙烯酸酯類纖維及含羊毛之複合紗等。
2.遠紅外線放射性：
最被普遍運用的一種技術叫做「遠紅外線放射性」，廠商在纖維中加入遠紅外線陶瓷成分，如碳化鋯、氧化鋯等，能夠反射人體發出的遠紅外線，且將可見光轉成遠紅外線並釋放熱能。

其他原理還有像是「中空纖維」、「丙烯酸酯類纖維」、「棉包覆羊毛製成複合紗」等，也都是現在紡織針對「發熱」開發出的技術。

下面特別針對遠紅外線做更詳細的介紹。

什麼是遠紅外線?

太陽光線大致可分為可見光及不可見光。可見光經三稜鏡後會折射出紫、靛、藍、綠、黃、橙、紅顏色來。紅光外側的光線是不可見光，波長由0.78-1000微米，稱為紅外線。當中4- 400微米的波長稱為遠紅外線，其中90%的波長介乎8-14微米，科學家稱為生命光線，因為這段波長的光線，能促進動物及植物的生長。63而人體主要由水及蛋白質構成，還包括鈣、鐵、鈉、鉀等微量元素，能發出5-30微米的遠紅外線能量。根據物理學理論，人體因而能大量吸收5-30微米的遠紅外線。

遠紅外線纖維素材利用吸收自然界的光、熱或吸收、反射人體釋放出來的輻射熱，並轉換放出波長8∼14μm(微米)的遠紅外線，此遠紅外線生育光波能滲透入人體內部，與人體水分子產生共振的狀態，可使皮膚及皮下組織產生熱反應和微血管擴張；對人體具蓄熱保溫特性。

遠紅外線纖維發展已多年，傳統生產上使用陶瓷作為高效能之遠紅外線材料，是眾所皆知而且被廣泛使用，卻有其缺點：

• 以陶瓷為材料添加所生產之纖維，非常容易磨損織針與機台絲導等設備，造成生產之織廠敬而畏之
• 纖維顏色偏黃，影響布料淺色系列染色設計
• 由於陶瓷粉末粒徑關係，不易生產纖維細度dpf ＜ 1 之產品，更不易搭配吸濕排汗或中空纖維等機能性斷面

目前已經有了突破，部份纖維廠研究了取代一般陶瓷材料之複合性遠紅外線材料，並搭配奈米研磨技術，成功的解決傳統所遇到之問題。以Magic- O2 纖維(新光合纖)產品為例，使用符合美國FDA認可之材料，生產出纖維色澤白、不損傷織針及可紡性優良之纖維。

發熱衣價格大約多少才算合理？

切記不要有品牌迷思，並且價格不等於價值。以市面上最常見的遠紅外線陶瓷粉織品來說，一件500元左右的發熱衣應算是合理價格。

但是小心！ 如果穿著發熱衣時需注意排汗通風效果，以免悶出汗斑來。

(前往了解認識涼感衣)

消基會也呼籲：

1.主管機關：
隨著市面上發熱性機能織品越來越多，標示規範的欠缺，造成的消費者混亂，影響消費者在購買時的判斷力。主管機關應制定相關認證及檢驗規範，以避免業者魚目混珠，也讓消費者在選擇購買時較有保障。

2.業者：
業者於服飾上標榜有發熱效果就應提出證明，且證明也不單單僅是一串報告編號，應將測試內容方式及結果一一陳列出來，依據《消保法》第22條：「企業經營者應確保廣告內容之真實，其對消費者所負之義務不得低於廣告之內容。」業者所除了發熱功能宣稱之外，若有宣稱其他的附加功能也應一並提出證明，而非空口說白話。

3.消費者：
在業者網站文宣上，常可以見到自行將自家產品與市售它牌發熱衣做比較的內容，無論平面或電子媒體也都有以實際試穿或以暖暖包替代等方式，為市售發熱衣做效果評比。然而發熱衣的發熱效果，並不是穿在身上幾分鐘後然後以溫度計去測量體溫變化就可以下結論的，不同時間的氣溫、濕度、風向等都會影響發熱衣的效果，加上不同的體質以及受試者所配合穿搭的衣服，都會產生不同的結果。因此發熱衣的成效好壞，是需要經過實驗室在相同的測試條件環境下，才能做出科學性的公正結論，單憑人體試穿方式而比較發熱程度好壞是有失公平的，消費者不要盡信。

最後消基會也提醒消費者，使用科技纖維的發熱衣雖有其一定的功效，但是消費者也不能單穿一件發熱衣就輕忽其他的保暖程序，且發熱衣的功效要達到最大限度，除了發熱衣本身的材質成分作用外，民眾所穿搭的衣服也會有所影響。隨著紡織技術進步，發熱禦寒織品不斷推陳出新，消費者對此類流行性商品應斟酌需求購買，而非盲目追求。

編排整理 Edited: ACOTEX Fabric Talks 布料指南