2017年5月31日

什麼顏色最防曬?| What is Sun-Safe color for clothing?

什麼顏色最防曬?

炎熱的夏天一定要做好及時的防曬,才可以保護皮膚不受紫外線的傷害,這時有一件稱職的防曬衣服是最好不過了,但是你知道不同顏色的防曬衣,防曬的效果卻大不同嗎?

深色淺色哪一個防曬好?

紫外線 (Ultraviolet Radiation,UVR),也可簡稱UV。紫外線對於人體才會有殺傷力,所以防曬最大的敵人就是紫外線。所以單就顏色分類而言,白色只能反射可見光,卻無法有效遮蔽紫外線。比起淺色或是粉色系的顏色,深色最能有效吸收紫外線,所以預防紫外線的效果是最好的。而除了深色之外,越鮮豔的顏色也越能吸收紫外線,如鮮紅色等。這是因為紅色等鮮豔顏色的光波較長,可大量吸收日光中的紫外線,而其他顏色就相對較弱,所以夏天穿鮮紅色衣服能阻止紫外線,防止皮膚被曬傷。

另外深色衣服雖然能有效達到防曬的效果,但也因為深色吸收紫外線的效果太好,也會造成溫度上升。這也是為什麼我們經常說穿黑色衣服「會吸熱」的原因。

布料的規格也會影響抗紫外線

雖然說深淺度會影響抗紫外線的能力,布料的織法密度、厚薄重量、材質使用也會大大影響防曬的效果。可以想像一塊布如果織得較鬆散,紫外線就更容易從縫隙中穿過,直接傷害到皮膚。

抗紫外線布料技術

台灣抗紫外線布料的技術也是世界數一數二的。台灣布料廠商製造的ACODRY® Pro防曬吸濕排汗布料,防曬等級就達到檢測的最高等級50+,UPF織物抗紫外線係數更是超過1000。防曬技術遙遙領先各布料廠商,走紅世界各地。

科陽國際提供的ACODRY® Pro防曬吸濕排汗布料檢測報告


一件真正的防曬衣就像太陽防護傘一樣,要能夠可以隔離95%以上的紫外線光,但是這僅限於真正的防曬衣。正規防曬衣原料和製成都需經過特殊處理,價格較高,一般市面上得低價防曬衣多是噱頭,大多只是起到了普通長袖衣的一般遮蔽作用而已。有品質的防曬布料不僅能夠防紫外線,還能將汗水迅速導至織物表面,快速乾燥,而劣質布料則吸濕、透氣性差,長時間穿著容易讓人感到不適甚至長出痱子。


深入了解何謂抗UV布料

編排整理 Edited by: ACOTEX®服裝布料知識網


What is Sun-Safe color for clothing?


What’s the best way to protect yourself from the sun’s harmful ultraviolet rays (UVR), given that we need to work, travel, and sometimes play outside? Clothing is the most basic and generally the best means of sun protection. Not all clothing is equal, however, and some of it isn’t actually very good at protecting us. So, what makes a piece of clothing sun-safe?

Color Comparisons

Most of our clothing is dyed attractive or functional colors. Many dyes absorb UV, which helps reduce exposure. Darker colors tend to absorb more UV than lighter colors, including whites and pastels, but bright colors such as red can also substantially absorb UV rays. The more vivid the color, the greater the protection; a bright yellow shirt is more protective than a pale one. But even a pale fabric can offer good protection if the weave, material, weight, etc. are effective at keeping out UV. And many white fabrics have “optical whitening agents,” chemical compounds that strongly absorb UVR, especially UVA.

Fabric Factors

Of course, you can have clothing over every square inch of your body, but if the sun goes right through it, it’s not much use. Fabrics are made of tiny fibers woven or knitted together. Under a microscope, we can see lots of spaces between the fibers; UV can pass directly through these holes to reach the skin. The tighter the knit or weave, the smaller the holes and the less UV can get through. Twill, used to make tweeds or denim, is an example of a tightly woven fabric. Open weave fabrics provide much less protection.

Fabrics can be made from many types of fibers, including cotton, wool, and nylon. Most fibers naturally absorb some UV radiation, and some have elastic threads that pull the fibers tightly together, reducing the spaces between the holes. Synthetic fibers such as polyester, lycra, nylon, and acrylic are more protective than bleached cottons, and shiny or lustrous semi-synthetic fabrics like rayon reflect more UV than do matte ones, such as linen, which tend to absorb rather than reflect UV. Finally, consider the fabric’s weight and density — light, sheer silk gauze will provide far less UV protection than heavy cotton denim.

2017年5月24日

Patagonia和Archroma合作開發永續性染料 | Patagonia's new clothing uses Archroma EarthColors dyes

Patagonia和Archroma合作開發永續性染料

美國知名戶外服裝巨擘Patagonia與紡織化學品專家Archroma合作開發了最新的膠囊系列產品,可看到零售商進行一系列來自96%可再生資源的植物性染料試驗。

該系列產品包括運動衫、短褲、男女用T恤和襯衫,都是利用天然染料來進行染色,其中包括Archroma的EarthColors其他供應來源,其系列染料皆由農業廢料所合成。

相較於傳統製程,Patagonia多數的合成染料皆使用較少水、能源和二氧化碳,但Patagonia表示,公司一直在尋找減低對環境危害的方法。

Patagonia已與Archroma公司合作,以Archroma 的Advanced Denim為基底,開發Patagonia Denim的系列產品,挑選了Palmetto Green和Citrus Brown這二項分別從不可食用的棕櫚樹綠色部分和農業留下的苦橙果皮,進行藥物技術萃取其顏色製作染料。

EarthColors是一系列以植物為基底的染料,取自100%的可再生資源。隨著時間的推移,顏色會變化和褪色,這成為這些染料獨特的一部分。

Archroma品牌行銷和機能紡織品專門業務部門的負責人Paul Cowell表示:「我們再次感到非常自豪,Patagonia已經選擇了Archroma的生態先進染色技術,致力於發展最新的永續服裝。我們Archroma致力於勇於挑戰現狀,深信我們可以使其行業朝向永續性發展,像Patagonia這樣的頂尖開拓者,為加速紡織價值鏈中的永續發展理念帶來寶貴的支持,我們一起展示了成衣行業一次一個系列的發展方向」。

在該系列的其他顏色包括紫紅色(Mulberry),就是使用由中國大陸蠶的排泄物製成的染料; 胭脂紅(Carmine),這種染料的紅色粉末產自胭脂甲蟲; 和石榴色(Pomegranate),使用石榴果皮生產豐富的黃棕色。

這些乾淨的顏色系列可在Patagonia零售門市和線上網站購買得到。

新聞來源:台灣紡拓會


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Patagonia's new clothing uses Archroma EarthColors dyes

Archroma, a global leader in colour and specialty chemicals headquartered in Switzerland, has announced its latest collaboration with Patagonia, the American company making sustainable clothing, founded by Yvon Chouinard in 1973. Patagonia’s Clear Color Collection has selected EarthColors, a range of dyes synthesised from agricultural waste by Archroma.

Patagonia’s Clean Color Collection is a new capsule collection that Patagonia has just released in the last days of April. The products in the collection have been coloured with dyes made from natural sources, including, along with other supply sources, EarthColors by Archroma.

Many of Patagonia’s synthetic dyes use less water, energy, and CO2 when compared with conventional processes, however Patagonia is always looking for ways to do less environmental harm. The company, who already collaborates with Archroma for the Patagonia Denim collection based on Archroma’s Advanced Denim, therefore contacted Archroma to have a closer look at Archroma’s EarthColors dyes. The selected EarthColors dyes are the gorgeous Palmetto Green and Citrus Brown colours made respectively from non-edible palmetto green parts and bitter orange peels left over from agriculture industry or pharmaceutical extraction.

EarthColors is a line of plant-based dyes, sourced from up to 100 per cent renewable resources. The colours change and fade over time, which is part of what makes these dyes unique.

Paul Cowell, head of brand marketing in Archroma’s brand & performance textile specialties business said, “We are so proud that, once again, Patagonia has chosen Archroma’s eco-advanced dyeing technologies for their newest sustainable clothing endeavour. We at Archroma are committed to challenge the status quo in the deep belief that we can make our industry sustainable. Trail blazers like Patagonia bring us invaluable support in accelerating sustainable concepts in the textile value chain. Together we are showing the apparel industry the way to go, one collection at a time.” (GK)

Original Article: FIBRE2FASHION

2017年5月17日

引爆3D客製化生產戰局,西門子加入Adidas的3D客製化超級工廠 | Siemens joins Adidas SPEEDFACTORIES project for custom 3D printed sportswear

引爆3D客製化生產戰局,西門子加入Adidas的3D客製化超級工廠

運動服裝巨頭Adidas將與電子生產技術公司西門子Siemens合作,強化Adidas的3D客製化超級工廠「SPEEDFACTORY」。

Adidas一直以來不斷利用尖端生產技術實現他們「快速、透明、個性化」的企業形象,這次更拉攏了一個非常有才華的大咖合作夥伴加入他們的藍圖。

來自德國的西門子Siemens是歐洲最大的製造和電子公司之一,並將向Adidas提供相關的專業知識技術,以加強Adidas 3D客製化生產工廠「SPEEDFACTORY」的數位化生產技術,勢必將在3D印花鞋等革命性產品的大量生產上有更大的突破。

Adidas和西門子Siemens在2017年漢諾威展覽會上發布了這項合作關係,這是世界上最大的工業展會,西門子已經展示了一個新的線上3D列印需求平台,以及與3D打印巨頭Stratasys的合作成果。

透過西門子加入到SPEEDFACTORY項目中,Adidas成為西門子新的合作夥伴中規模最大的公司。Adidas表示,現在我們可以對整個生產流程進行模擬、測試和優化,大大縮短生產到上市的時間,不但為生產提供更大的靈活性,並且提高製造品質和效率。

「Adidas的3D客製化超級生產工廠SPEEDFACTORIES完美體現了未來生產的發展前景。」西門子公司管理委員會成員克勞斯·赫爾姆里奇(Klaus Helmrich)表示: 「更多客製化的消費趨勢加上能夠實現這些期望的新技術,將永久改變很多生產概念。」

編輯翻譯:ACOTEX服裝布料知識網
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Siemens joins Adidas SPEEDFACTORIES project for custom 3D printed sportswear

Sportswear giant Adidas is collaborating with manufacturing and technology company Siemens to improve the Adidas SPEEDFACTORY, a new production system that makes use of 3D printing and other modern technologies to produce high-quality sporting goods.

In its mission to achieve “fast, transparent, and individualized production” using additive manufacturing and other cutting-edge production techniques, German sportswear icon Adidas has just recruited an incredibly talented and high-profile partner.

Siemens, also from Germany, is the largest manufacturing and electronics company in Europe, and will lend its expertise to Adidas in order to drive forward the digitalization of the Adidas SPEEDFACTORY, the sportswear company’s new factory concept that could signal the start of mass-produced 3D printed footwear and other revolutionary products.

The announcement of Adidas and Siemens’ new partnership was made at Hannover Messe 2017, the world’s largest industrial fair, where Siemens has already showcased a new online platform for on-demand 3D printing, as well as the fruits of its partnership with 3D printing giant Stratasys in its Mobility division.

By bringing Siemens on board with the SPEEDFACTORY project, Adidas becomes the latest high-profile company to make use of Siemens’ technological acumen. The sportswear company says it will now be able to simulate, test, and optimize the entire production process up front, helping it shorten the time to market, bring greater flexibility to production, and “provide improved manufacturing quality and efficiency.”

"Everything we do is focused on our consumers,” commented Gerd Manz, Vice President of Technology Innovation at Adidas. “They demand the highest level of individuality and quality. With SPEEDFACTORY we can completely rethink conventional processes and live up to these high expectations.

“By digitalizing the value chain, we will be able to implement new technological innovations more quickly, make more efficient and transparent use of the resources available and so respond more flexibly to the individual needs of our consumers.”

Adidas’ new SPEEDFACTORIES will initially open in Germany and the US, where the company will use digital manufacturing techniques like 3D printing, computerized knitting, and robotic cutting to create high-quality modern products.

One product that could be made in these SPEEDFACTORIES is Adidas’ new Futurecraft 4D 3D printed shoe, which Adidas says will be mass-produced in quantities of more than 100,000 pairs before 2019.

“The SPEEDFACTORIES run by Adidas are a perfect illustration of where the production of the future is heading,” said Klaus Helmrich, Member of the Management Board of Siemens AG. “The social trend towards greater customization coupled with new technologies capable of actually fulfilling these expectations will permanently change many production processes.”

We’re excited to see how Adidas uses its SPEEDFACTORIES to take its three stripes into the third dimension. With Siemens on board as a partner, the project looks poised for success.

Original Article: 3ders.org

2017年5月9日

3M 重新開發用於運動服飾的「炭黑」反光技術 | 3M Reinvents Reflective Material For Activewear With Carbon Black Technology

3M 重新開發用於運動服飾的「炭黑」反光技術

運動服裝設計師們將會有新的3M Scotchlite高性能反光材料。此項新的3M Scotchlite高性能反光材料技術將適應各種穿著環境。不論是公司的會議室到咖啡廳或是戶外的自行車道上,新的3M Scotchlite高性能反光材料都不會讓你的服裝顯得特別突兀。

新的專利技術 C790「碳黑」拉伸轉印膜(Carbon Black Stretch Transfer Film)在平常日光下顯現的是深黑色。一到了晚上受照明時,3M Scotchlite著名的高反光亮度就馬上顯現出來。這種高反光亮度材料不但可以拉伸,也同時具有長效耐洗滌的功能。並可以進行低溫黏合,讓這種材料在不影響設計和品質上,更廣泛使用於各種織物布料上。

有別於傳統的銀色反光材料不同,傳統的銀色反光材料在玻璃微珠層上塗上了薄薄的色彩塗料,而3M新的「炭黑技術」使顏色融入材料結構本身之中,這增強了顏色的鮮豔度與色彩牢度,並維持平均300RA的初始亮度。炭黑技術還有助於提供斜角偏光的亮度,以提高在低光光源條件下的可見度。

「當設計師想設計時尚且反光的運動服飾時,再也不需要在反光機能和外觀上作妥協」3M的Ryan Gallagher說道「C790的碳黑轉印膜可以融入設計,並且是截至為止拉伸力最強的反光材料。也就是說設計師將可以用單一材料就可以同時得到融入外觀、凸顯反光和動感元素」

資料來源:3M

編輯翻譯:ACOTEX服裝布料知識網



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3M Reinvents Reflective Material For Activewear With Carbon Black Technology


Athletic apparel designers have a new, high-performance reflective material from 3M™ Scotchlite™ Reflective Material available to them as they create activewear that can be worn from the conference room to the coffee shop to the bike path.

The patented* C790 Carbon Black Stretch Transfer Film is a rich, deep black-colored material when viewed in daylight. But when illuminated at night, the material delivers vibrant reflective brightness that Scotchlite reflective material is known for. The vivid brightness of the material is durable through wear, stretch or washing. Featuring a low-temp bonding capability, it also can adhere to a wide variety of fabrics without affecting design or quality.

Unlike traditional colorized-silver reflective materials that apply a thin layer of color on top of glass beads, 3M’s proprietary carbon black technology makes the color inherent to the material’s construction. This creates a discreet, color-fast material with initial brightness averaging 300 RA strike. Carbon black technology also helps provide off-angle brightness for increased visibility in low-light conditions.

“Designers of active apparel no longer have to compromise when they want a high performing, on-trend reflective material, “ said Ryan Gallagher, 3M. “C790 carbon black transfer film is the deepest black and highest stretch reflective material we’ve ever made, meaning designers now have a single material that can blend in, stand out and move with any active pursuit or dynamic lifestyle.”

C790 carbon black transfer film can accommodate a wide range of applications on gear worn for training, running, cycling, motorsports and more.

Original Article: Textile World

2017年5月4日

穿牛仔褲上健身房運動?Nike申請運動牛仔布專利 | Athletic Denim Just Got Real with Nike's Latest Patent

Nike運動牛仔褲示意圖

穿牛仔褲上健身房運動?Nike申請運動牛仔丹寧布專利


「穿上你最愛的牛仔褲去健身房運動」或許在不久的未來不會再是個愚蠢的決定了!

幾週前運動品牌Nike申請了一項特別的專利 - 「ath-denim」。這是運動牛仔丹寧布的縮寫,專家們期望這是運動服裝的下一個創新。此項專利項目也包含了「人工強化丹寧布 (artificially reinforced denim)」,也就是混合耐用型牛仔慢跑褲,完全符合Nike CEO馬克·帕克(Mark Parker)之前曾表示將先進材料推向傳統服裝的議題。

該專利的細節內容包含了具有「高韌性」和「水分管理」以及包含65%棉+35%科技聚酯纖維等各種比例的織物。其他還有諸如「表演區」和「吸震襯墊」這樣的字眼,指的應該是織物編織的方式,但除此之外Nike暫時還沒有透露太多相關的訊息。

鑑於耐克先前進入編織運動鞋技術,加上不斷加入新布料材質的科技元素,想必距離「牛仔牛仔」正式亮相應該不會太久了。

以後你會穿著牛仔褲上健身房嗎?





ATHLETIC DENIM JUST GOT REAL WITH NIKE’S LATEST PATENT


Hitting the gym in your favourite denim might not be such a ridiculous idea in the future if Nike have their way.

Over the weekend the American label filed a patent for ‘ath-denim’, an abbreviation of athletic denim which pundits are expecting to be the next innovation in sporting apparel. The patent which also covers the term “artificially reinforced denim” refers to a hybrid jeans-jogging pant which will head Nike CEO Mark Parker’s agenda for pushing advanced materials into traditional garments.

Details of the patent thus far describes a fabric which possesses “high tenacity” and “moisture management” alongside optimal stretch properties in various proportions. There were also words such as “performance zones” and “padding for shock absorption” thrown around which refers to certain areas of fabric weave, but other than that not much information has been released.

Given Nike’s recent foray into laceless sneaker technology and a push for advancing materials, it shouldn’t be too long before ‘ath-denim’ makes its official debut.

Would you ever rock running jeans? Let us know in the comments below.

Original Article: D'MARGE