適用成衣及運動服的EPSON新熱昇華列印機 | Epson Announces Next-Generation SureColor F-Series Dye-Sublimation Printers with New High Density Black Ink

適用成衣及運動服的EPSON新熱昇華列印機

列印專家Epson推出兩款能列印像成衣和運動服這類高品質紡織品之新型熱昇華列印機。

SureColor SC-F7200和SC-F6200印表機，增強Epson熱昇華功能，包括硬體、軟體、噴頭、墨水及轉印紙這個部分完整的方案，為企業提供一個擴大生產能力機會。

Epson英國產品經理Martin Johns解釋，“隨著Epson最新技術的進步，利用該新技術於兩款機型，為我們的客戶提供兩款新型熱昇華列印機”。

兩款列印機使用Epson的PrecisionCore TFP噴頭，號稱“以精湛的色彩和清晰度”能精確的列印。搭配UltraChrome DS墨水組，更能幫助實現最佳的效果。主要用於紡織印染的新HDK黑色墨水已經推出，可以幫助黑色陰影更深刻表現。

墨水特性包括高容量的墨水系統，確保減少清潔次數及更換噴頭，以降低可能的停機時間，採用Epson墨水以節省每平方米列印的成本。

【相關文章】
》紡織數位印花 | Digital Printing for Textile
》布料(服飾)印刷的種類 | Different Types of Fabric Prints
》亨斯邁活性油墨可提高數位印刷性能

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Epson Announces Next-Generation SureColor F-Series Dye-Sublimation Printers with New High Density Black Ink

LONG BEACH, Calif., Aug. 11, 2015 /PRNewswire/ -- As textile imaging continues the rapid transition from analog to digital, Epson America today bridges the gap further with the introduction of its next-generation SureColor® F-Series dye-sublimation transfer printers. The 44-inch Epson® SureColor F6200 and 64-inch Epson SureColor F7200 and F9200 leverage Epson UltraChrome® DS ink with an all new high density Black ink to deliver improved ink efficiency and black density with better tonal transitions and grayscale for high quality results in the roll-to-roll fabric production, customized promotional production, soft signage, and cut-and-sew sports apparel, fashion, and home décor markets.

The flagship SureColor F9200 printer utilizes dual Epson PrecisionCore® TFP® printheads for high-speed, industrial-level roll-to-roll productivity with superior dot control and precise, repeatable performance. Each printer offers continuous productivity and less downtime with an integral and easily refillable, high-capacity bulk ink system and an improved post-platen heater for seamless media handling and faster drying times for continuous production.

"Since Epson launched its first true dye-sublimation printers in 2013, we have been diligently working to enhance the technology to meet the demands of industrial manufacturers," said Tim Check, product manager, Professional Imaging, Epson America, Inc. "Now with the flagship SureColor F9200 providing double the speed and a high-capacity three liter per color ink supply system, users can print much more efficiently, and with far fewer interruptions."

Equipped with a highly accurate take up reel, the Epson SureColor F-Series allow for maximum uninterrupted production runs with minimal maintenance downtime. The printers also come with a Wasatch SoftRIP workflow that enables users to start printing sellable output immediately out of the box with specialty features for textile printing. A complete and proven dye-sublimation printer solution, the SureColor F-Series is compatible with Epson's line of dye-sublimation transfer papers and designed to work exclusively with Epson UltraChrome DS Ink to ensure optimized output quality at industrial-level production1.

More about the SureColor F-Series Printers

Engineered from the ground up, the Epson SureColor F-Series offers a range of productivity features, including:

• Epson PrecisionCore TFP Printhead: Offers high-performance and consistency, along with variable size ink droplet technology for remarkable photographic print quality and accuracy. The flagship SureColor F9200 incorporates dual PrecisionCore TFP printheads to deliver high-speed, roll-to-roll productivity with output speeds up to 1,044 square feet per hour.
• Epson UltraChrome DS Ink: Epson-exclusive UltraChrome DS ink with all-new high density Black produces an extreme color gamut with improved black density for rich blacks and better tonal transitions and gray scale; provides fast drying times and improved ink efficiency for a low total cost of ownership. The SureColor F-Series printers are designed to be used exclusively with Epson UltraChrome DS inks and not with any other brands of cartridges or inks.
• Continuous High-Speed Roll-to-Roll Productivity: Highly accurate take up reel and substrate system deliver winding accuracy within ±2.5mm on transfer paper rolls. The F9200 allows for maximum uninterrupted production runs with minimal maintenance downtime, plus an integral and easily refillable, high-capacity 3-liter bulk ink system and improved post-platen heater allow for seamless media handling and faster drying times.
• Workflow: Wasatch SoftRIP enables users to print sellable output immediately out of the box with specialty features designed for textile printing.
• Epson DS Transfer Papers: Compatible with Epson's dye-sublimation transfer papers, including the DS Transfer Production paper for high-volume customers (up to 575 feet per roll); DS Transfer Adhesive Textile for high-end cut-and-sew fabric and apparel production; and the DS Transfer Multipurpose for transfer applications with soft or rigid surfaces.

Support and Availability

The Epson SureColor F-Series will be available in September 2015 through authorized Epson Professional Imaging resellers. The F-Series offers varying performance and feature sets to accommodate a range of dye-sublimation transfer printing needs:

Product	Output	Maximum Print  Speeds2	Bulk Ink System	Price
SureColor F6200	44-inches	634 Sq.ft/hour	1.5 liters per color	$8,495
SureColor F7200	64-inches	634 Sq.ft/hour	1.5 liters per color	$15,995
SureColor F9200	64-inches	1,044 Sq.ft/hour	3 liters per color	$25,995

The SureColor F-Series printers offer a standard Epson PreferredSM Limited Warranty, a one-year program that includes toll-free advanced telephone access Monday through Friday and usually next business-day on-site service in the unlikely event of any hardware failure. For additional information, visit www.proimaging.epson.com.

About Epson

Epson is a global technology leader dedicated to driving innovations and exceeding customer expectations in printing, visual communications, quality of life and manufacturing. Epson's lineup ranges from inkjet printers, printing systems and 3LCD projectors to industrial robots, smart glasses and sensing systems and is based on original compact, energy-saving, and high-precision technologies.

Led by the Japan-based Seiko Epson Corporation, the Epson Group comprises nearly 70,000 employees in 94 companies around the world, and is proud of its contributions to the communities in which it operates and its ongoing efforts to reduce environmental burdens.

Epson America, Inc., based in Long Beach, Calif., is Epson's regional headquarters for the U.S., Canada, and Latin America. To learn more about Epson, please visit: www.epson.com.
You may also connect with Epson America on Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/Epson), Twitter (http://twitter.com/EpsonAmerica) and YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/EpsonAmerica).

1 The printer is designed to use only EPSON inks and not other brands of new or refilled cartridges, or other brands of ink or bulk ink systems. Using genuine EPSON inks is important for reliable performance and high image quality. Epson offers voluntary recycling of spent ink cartridges
2 All print speeds are based upon print engine speeds only. Total throughput time depends on workflow configuration, paper type, RIP, file size, print resolution, ink coverage, networking, etc,

Note: EPSON, SureColor, PrecisionCore, TFP,  and UltraChrome are registered trademarks and Epson Exceed Your Vision is a registered logomark of Seiko Epson Corporation. All other product and brand names are trademarks and/or registered trademarks of their respective companies. Epson disclaims any and all rights in these marks.

Original Article: PR Newswire

Microsoft科技衣 未來將用衣服收簡訊 | Microsoft May Send Shock Alerts Through Clothes

Microsoft科技衣 未來將用衣服收簡訊

全球軟體巨擘微軟（Microsoft）已經申請1項科技專利，有朝一日也許可見到一種服飾的誕生，穿上這種服飾，當手機接獲訊息時，衣服會輕觸肌膚報你知。

根據天空新聞（Sky News）報導，不時拿起手機查看訊息或電子郵件，日益被視為不禮貌的行為，但改用振動靜音卻常常沒感覺而漏接。

因此，微軟改採一種不同的方式，每當穿戴者手機有新通知時，將以有節制的溫和電刺激輕觸肌膚通知。

這項專利的摘要說：「此處所描述的技術可以提供肌膚電刺激，以傳達訊息給使用者。例如，電刺激可能通知使用者關於活動，或情況。」

微軟在專利示意圖中，納入鞋子、T恤，解釋服飾可以用來結合刺激。同時也解釋這項科技可以用來通知使用者，衣服何時會穿壞，或藉由身體四周的不同刺激幫助他們在大街上導航。

【相關文章】
》微軟開發出可監測情緒的智慧圍巾 | Microsoft shows off smart scarf prototype, updates Band
》Google著手開發高科技「觸碰型布料」| Google developing smart fabrics
》當「傳產」遇見「科技」，帶來”布”一樣的生活

【新聞來源：台灣紡拓會】

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Microsoft May Send Shock Alerts Through Clothes

Microsoft has patented technology that could one day see the creation of clothes that make your skin tingle when you receive a message.

The patent application points out that it is increasingly rude in society to constantly take out your phone to check for new text messages and emails, while vibrating alerts are often not felt.

So Microsoft instead suggests a different approach: a discreet mild electrical stimulus applied to the skin whenever the wearer has a new notification on their phone.

The patent's abstract says: "Techniques are described herein that are capable of providing electrical stimuli to skin of a user to convey information to the user. For instance, the electrical stimuli may inform the user of an event, a condition, etc."

In the patent's diagrams, Microsoft includes a shoe and a T-shirt as examples of clothing which could used to incorporate the stimulus.

It also explained that the technology could be used to tell a user when the clothes are about to wear out, or help them to navigate through streets by using various stimuli around the body.

The patent was first filed in February 2014 and published on Thursday.

Like all patents, it is not guaranteed that the technology will ever go into production.

Microsoft wrote in the patent paperwork: "People are increasingly exposed to information these days. A snapshot of our modern society is likely to reveal many people using mobile devices while performing their daily routine tasks.

"For instance people often text, conduct telephone calls, check messages, search the internet, etc. Using mobile devices in such a manner may raise any of a variety of concerns, namely safety and/or etiquette.

"In an effort to address such concerns, companies are developing devices that are capable of delivering content to users in an unobtrusive and/or hands-free manner."

Original Article: Sky News

3M反光材料創新應用 從安全領域延伸至時尚殿堂 3M機能性運動服飾解決方案 機能與設計兼顧 雙管齊下力助紡織業升級

3M反光材料創新應用　從安全領域延伸至時尚殿堂　3M機能性運動服飾解決方案　機能與設計兼顧　雙管齊下力助紡織業升級

3M機能性運動服飾解決方案（Functional Activewear Solutions）再添創新應用！3M多樣化的反光產品耐水洗且好加工，一直為各大紡織企業、運動品牌所喜好，原本應用在安全領域的反光材料，3M將其擴大延伸至運動時尚產業，期待與台灣企業開創機能性運動服飾商機之外的另一波設計加值契機。

美商3M台灣子公司安全暨圖識產品事業群總經理葉劉志光25日在「臺北好時尚x ELLE New Talent」2015時尚設計新銳大賞，親自將「機能/印花指定合作獎」頒給年輕設計師高全慶。葉劉志光表示，「這次是3M第二年參與臺北好時尚時裝設計新銳大賞，和新銳設計師高全慶合作，希望能以3M產品提升台灣時尚設計產業能量，強化台灣紡織服飾業整體競爭力，透過新銳設計師巧手，打造獨特風格自行車車衣，成為伸展台及運動場的亮點」。

3M以反光、保暖及防護材料攜手台廠　進軍自行車車衣市場
運動休閒風潮開啟機能性紡織品的需求，依據中華民國紡織業拓展會統計，台灣機能性布料供應商已拿下國外知名運動品牌七成的供貨來源，顯示機能性紡織品是台灣紡織業航向藍海的關鍵，看準這波商機，3M以反光材料（Scotchlite™）、保暖材料（Thinsulate™）及防護材料（Scotchgard™）三大機能性運動服飾解決方案，與台廠合作搶占全球市場。

目前3M反光材料在台灣的業績占比以服飾鞋業最高，達到六成，反映服飾市場對於安全性需求殷切。近年環保及健康意識高漲，世界各國以自行車代步與運動蔚為風潮，根據調查，全球騎車人口約占總人口15%，仍有85%人口的潛在市場[註]，自行車市場前景可期，自然也為周邊產品帶來商機，像是自行車車衣講究安全、防曬、防風、排汗及快乾等功能，成為台灣紡織成衣工業重點開發領域。3M持續開發應用於紡織服飾業的反光材料，透過回歸反射提供絕佳的可見度，且3M反光材料加工容易，可以直接縫製在衣服之上，或是經過裁切熱壓過程直接與各式的底材結合，3M反光材料已受到許多車衣品牌高度青睞。

創新應用反光機能　3M聚焦設計加值
由於騎單車的民眾往往在一般道路上奔馳，在昏暗的環境中安全性備受關注，將反光材料應用在車衣上，就可以提高能見度，另外，為了突破車衣給人的單調乏味感，同時增加市場競爭力，3M便與新銳設計師合作。葉劉志光表示，「高全慶以圖像創作結合反光元素，運用3M反光材料融入車衣，讓車衣具備時尚設計及安全機能，高全慶獲得機能/印花指定合作獎項是實至名歸」。由於此次合作相當成功，3M未來也將複製相同經驗，透過設計師獨到美學眼光，將反光材料應用至球衣、韻律服、慢跑鞋等領域，增添時尚感，並持續與台廠合作，推動產業轉型升級。

三策略緊扣台紡織業全產業鏈　提升附加價值挑戰全球市占
台灣紡織業在60年代曾是全球服裝生產基地，但隨著成衣業外移至低成本國家，整體產值逐漸萎縮，為避免陷入低毛利競爭紅海，台灣紡織服飾業已改變過去強調產能思維，轉向以科技、設計提升產品附加價值，3M身為科技大廠，為了協助台灣紡織業搶下全球市場霸主地位，3M以「技術開發、國際市場接軌及設計師合作」三策略，與台廠共創雙贏。

3M與台灣紡織業者共同開發出許多創新產品，包括反光紗織布、反光印花、反光網布、反光織帶等，讓產業下游有豐富且多元的布料材質以應用在服裝設計中。3M透過旗下產品符合國際認證標準優勢，帶領台廠進軍全球，導入海外市場，例如今年５月與台廠共同開發的「撥水紗」，由於所應用的3M Scotchgard™ PMA環保抽紗撥水添加劑符合歐盟及有害化學物質零排放（ZDHC）規定，使台灣紡織廠商能更有效率的進入歐盟市場。3M此次進一步和設計師合作，希望更進一步推動產業升級。

【參考資料】
[註]財團法人自行車暨健康科技工業研究發展中心（2015）。自行車產業發展策略。

【關於3M】
3M致力於整合並應用科技改善日常生活。3M全球員工超過9萬人，為200個國家的消費者服務，並創下320億美元的銷售額。了解更多3M改善生活問題的創新解決方案，請至：www.3m.com。

訊息來源：美商3M台灣子公司

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市售老人穿著棉織品檢測，服飾標示近4成不符規定

市售老人穿著棉織品檢測，服飾標示近4成不符規定

貼身衣物是人體最直接接觸的服飾，品質的好壞與否，攸關穿著者的安全與舒適，尤其是皮膚抵抗力較弱的銀髮族，更須維護其「衣」的品質。

為確保市售老人穿著棉織品之品質安全，經濟部標準檢驗局與消基會共同合作，於104年3月間，於百貨商行及賣場等通路，隨機購買12件棉織品，進行品質項目檢測及標示檢查，檢測結果品質項目全數符合國家標準規定，惟服飾標示部分有5件樣品不符規定。

檢測項目

標準檢驗局表示，本次購樣檢驗係依據國家標準CNS 15290「紡織品安全規範(一般要求)」規定進行『游離甲醛』檢測，並針對有色棉織品加驗『禁用之偶氮色料』項目。

另依據CNS 2339-1「纖維混用率試驗法－第1部：纖維鑑別」、CNS 2339-2「纖維混用率試驗法－第2部：纖維混用率」檢測棉織品實際『纖維成分』及依「服飾標示基準」查核標示。

檢測與調查結果

本次檢測全部共有12件樣品，價格約在新台幣55～1791元之間，價差約32倍，最貴為(編號12)EXCIOR男性保暖衣售1791元，最便宜者為(編號1)Fans Zui Tina舒適素面女背心售55元。

一、品質項目檢測結果：樣品全數合格

本次「品質項目檢測」部分包括「游離甲醛」及「禁用之偶氮色料」等2項。

經檢測後發現，本次受測樣品之「游離甲醛」及「禁用之偶氮色料」檢測結果，全數12件樣品皆符合國家標準要求。

二、標示查核：共5件樣品服飾標示不符規定

本次「標示查核」部分包括「國內產製者，應標示製造廠商名稱、電話及地址；其為進口者，應標示進口廠商名稱、電話及地址」、「尺寸或尺碼」、「生產國別(產品主要製程地之生產國別)」、「纖維或羽絨成分」、「洗燙處理方法：應包括水洗、乾洗、漂白、乾燥、熨燙之圖案」等5項。

經檢測後發現，總計有5件樣品的標示不符「服飾標示基準」之規定，約占全數12件樣品之42 %。詳細的不合格情形如下：

(一) 纖維成分標示與實際檢驗結果不同：

1、(編號8) Felix Buhler純棉短袖圓領衫：標示含「棉」100 %，實際僅含「棉」58.3 %，其餘41.7 %為「聚酯纖維」，不符合「服飾標示基準」規定，纖維成分重量百分比許可差，應在上下百分之三以內之要求。

(二) 未以正確中文學名或慣用名稱標示「纖維成分」：

1、(編號11) 三花Light Warm長袖上衣：纖維成分名稱，未以正體中文標示。

2、(編號10) 三槍牌男V領長袖衫：將「莫代爾」纖維成分名稱，標示為「超細木漿纖維(Micro Modal)」。

木漿為主要再生纖維素纖維[如嫘縈(Rayon)、萊賽爾(Lyocell)、莫代爾(Modal)等]之纖維原料，故纖維成分標示應依實際再生纖維素名稱標示，又其中標示(Modal)未以正體中文學名「莫代爾」，不符合「服飾標示基準」第五點第(二)款規定。

3、(編號9)FET女長袖V領衫：將「聚酯纖維」纖維成分名稱，標示為「中空保暖紗」。

「中空保暖紗」非正確纖維成分中文學名或慣用名稱，檢驗結果正確名稱為「聚酯纖維」，不符合「服飾標示基準」第五點第(二)款規定。

(三) 未標示進口商之名稱、電話及地址：

1、(編號11) 三花Light Warm長袖上衣：未標示進口商之名稱、電話及地址，倘若消費者有任何疑問或發生問題，將不知道如何找到業者說明、負責。

違反依「商品標示法」第11條「由中央主管機關得就特定之商品，於無損商品之正確標示及保護消費者權益下，公告規定其應行標示事項及標示方法」規定，可依該法第15條規定「直轄市或縣(市)主管機關應通知生產、製造或進口商限期改正；屆期不改正者，處新臺幣二萬元以上二十萬元以下罰鍰，並得按次連續處罰至改正為止。」。

(四)洗燙處理標示圖案不全：

1、(編號12) EXCIOR男性保暖衣：洗燙處理標示缺「乾洗」圖案，。
2、(編號11) 三花Light Warm長袖上衣：洗燙處理標示缺「熨燙」圖案。
3、(編號8) Felix Buhler純棉短袖圓領衫：洗燙處理標示缺「乾洗」 圖案。

依96年2月12日公告修正之「服飾標示基準」第五點洗燙處理標示(洗標)之規定，洗燙處理標示：應包括水洗、乾洗、漂白、乾燥、熨燙之圖案等5項，洗標內容應以圖案為主，得輔以必要文字說明，以補充說明圖案所無法完全表達之洗燙處理方式。如不能「乾洗」或「熨燙」，應標示「不可乾洗」、「不可熨燙」或以適當圖案表之。
（備註：「服飾標示基準」已於103年3月20日公告修正，除第五點自公告後二年施行外，其餘自公告後一年施行。）

呼籲與提醒

消基會於比較本次樣品之檢測結果後，發現具有品牌形象且售價較高的受測樣品中，在服飾標示方面有些項目不符規定，顯見品牌與價格並不一定是品質的保證，因此消費者在選購時，除了參考業者的品牌形象與價格外，更須瞭解其實質產品，才不會花了錢卻沒買到相對應有的品質。


依「公平交易法」第21條「事業不得在商品或其廣告上，或以其他使公眾得知之方法，對於商品之價格、數量、品質、內容、製造方法、製造日期、有效期限、使用方法、用途、原產地、製造者、製造地、加工者、加工地等，為虛偽不實或引人錯誤之表示或表徵。事業對於載有前項虛偽不實或引人錯誤表示之商品，不得販賣、運送、輸出或輸入。」及第24條「除本法另有規定者外，事業亦不得為其他足以影響交易秩序之欺罔或顯失公平之行為。」是以，對於行銷如涉及上開不公平競爭行為，可依該法第26條向公平交易委員會檢舉由該會調查處理及依該法第 31 條請求損害賠償。

關於此次受測樣品中，部分標示未符合「服飾標示基準」規定者，標準檢驗局表示，將移請經濟部中部辦公室依「商品標示法」處理。

而在「品質項目檢測」方面，標準檢驗局強調，「甲醛」目前是環保署公告之毒性化學物質，同時國際癌症研究組織已證實「甲醛」會對動物造成癌症，吸入過量的「甲醛」會導致人體呼吸道發炎、引起頭痛、脈搏加快等症狀，與皮膚接觸則會引起皮膚炎及皮膚過敏等症狀。

「甲醛」濃度高時有刺鼻的氣味，會引起眼睛及呼吸道極度不適，而長期暴露在高濃度「甲醛」環境中，可能引起呼吸道疾病、影響生長發育和誘發腫瘤等健康危害。

「禁用之偶氮色料」部分，因某些偶氮色料被人體吸收後，在人體內經還原裂解可能產生芳香胺，而這些芳香胺化學物質已證明具有致癌或引起腫瘤病變等危害性。為維護人體健康安全及保護環境生態，遂採取源頭管理方式，將這些偶氮色料列為禁用物質。歐盟、日本等國家已禁止使用以聯苯胺為代表的24種有致癌性的芳香胺，以及可以分解出這些芳香胺的色料；進口商亦不得進口經偶氮色料加工且會與人體接觸的紡織品。

標準局呼籲業者，應製造或進口符合檢驗規定之棉織品並落實商品標示之正確性，以維護消費者權益。

消基會提醒消費者選購時，應注意下列事項：

（一）建議不要購買商品標示不明之產品，除注意品質、價格外，請選購商品本體附縫(洗滌標)及外包裝標示清楚、詳細的產品，標示內容需包含：

1、國內產製者，應標示製造廠商名稱、電話及地址；其為進口者，應標示進口廠商名稱、電話及地址。
2、尺寸或尺碼。
3、生產國別(產品主要製程地之生產國別)。
4、纖維或羽絨成分。
5、洗燙處理方法：應包括水洗、乾洗、漂白、乾燥、熨燙之圖案。

（二）建議挑選棉織品時，可先嗅聞查看有無刺鼻異味，另使用前最好先以清水洗滌過，以減少化學物質殘留。

標準檢驗局提醒消費者，對於購買相關商品多一些瞭解，商品使用時就有多一分安全保障，消費者可至該局網站「商品安全資訊網(http://safety.bsmi.gov.tw/wSite/mp?mp=65)」項下查閱或撥打免付費電話0800-007123洽詢。

【文章來源：財團法人中華民國消費者文教基金會】

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當運動與藝術結合，汗水結合人文 - 運動品牌分別推出新產品與藝術結合

當運動遇上藝術，揮汗嗅到人文味

當運動遇上設計與藝術，盡情揮汗後，散發出來的不再是汗臭味，而是人文的芬芳。運動品牌NIKE、adidas近來積極開發精品市場，或與知名設計師聯名，或與藝術結盟，讓運動場成為服裝秀的伸展台，讓運動揮汗，也能品味人文藝術。

NIKE旗下以設計概念為主題的NikeLab，今年與德國柏林的女性設計師Johanna Schneider合作，推出融合時尚設計的運動服裝，不僅強調科技機能，且讓女人在運動時，服裝可隨著身體的律動，更加優美，今年春夏一上市就在時尚圈引起話題，成功將運動服飾推向時尚層次。

服裝設計師Johanna Schneider熱愛慢跑和騎自行車等運動，並從運動中啟發設計靈感，因此她設計的勁裝不僅時尚，融入大量柔美浪漫的元素，而且兼具實用性。今年秋冬新登場的NikeLab X JohannaSchneider系列，日前在網站搶先曝光形象照，外型如安潔莉娜裘莉的女模身穿新款運動裝，Johanna Schneider以建築結構美學詮釋新作，交錯的線條、崚角讓女裝更有個性，預告今年秋冬結構主義將會是運動時尚的主流，令人期待。

繼adidas by Stella McCartney創造運動與時尚聯名的成功模式之後，走精品時尚路線adidas Originals系列，也擁有不少忠實粉絲，日前adidas Originals邀請知名歌手Pharrell Williams設計經典鞋款「superstar」，以藝術打造出全新「Supershell project」，為藝術為運動鞋增色。

台灣adidas Originals日前邀請15位藝術家和藝人加入設計行列，包括庾澄慶、吳建豪、林俊傑、賴雅妍、愛紗、魏如萱、王心恬、知名圖文創作家掰掰啾啾、Mr.elk（迷路）、導演廖人帥、名媛孫怡、服裝設計師Jasper Huang（黃嘉祥）、藝術家曾雍甯、室內設計師Oscar Lee（李穰璿）、公仔設計師Laz Chien（錢澔倫）等，傳遞「Supershell project」的精神，並將以每位藝術家名義捐贈新台幣兩萬元給中華基督教救助協會，用於「弱勢兒童課後陪讀──多元才藝訓練」公益活動。

adidas Originals邀請台灣15位藝術家和藝人打造出全新「Supershell project」，圖為文青名模王心恬設計的作品。圖片來源 adidas Originals

秋冬新登場的NikeLab X Johanna Schneider系列。圖片來源 FRUITION

秋冬新登場的NikeLab X Johanna Schneider系列。圖片來源 FRUITION

【新聞來源：聯合新聞網】

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Aquafil 和Speedo致力於以回收材料製成泳裝 | Aquafil and Speedo USA Launch World’s First Fabric Take-Back Program for Swimwear Industry

Aquafil 和Speedo致力於以回收材料製成泳裝

義大利纖維公司Aquafil 與美國泳裝品牌 Speedo 合作，發表號稱是泳裝業界首創的布料回收計畫。未來將可見到以下腳料回收做成原料尼龍所製成新“革命性”的泳衣。

由於複雜的技術組合，到目前為止，從泳裝產業生產後織物廢物並不適合傳統的回收作業。

然而，AQUAFIL的新技術卻可以把泳衣布等混紡的廢棄物轉化成新原料尼龍。Econyl Regeneration System 以生產過程中的廢料副產品及使用壽命終結的尼龍原料，像是如廢棄的漁網與舊地毯，然後重新轉化成Econyl nylon 6 以做為生產新地毯、運動服及泳衣的原料。

Econyl的再生技術目前使用在Speedo的混紡生產後廢棄的下腳料，用以分離出可用尼龍，回收做成尼龍纖維原料。這些尼龍原料將會用在生產Speedo PowerFlex Eco泳裝系列產品。

由於是100%由回收廢舊物資之尼龍所做，Econyl被認為是理想的選擇，所創造的高品質服裝具有耐用、輕便、透氣又環保等優點。它具備了如傳統方法所製造的尼龍相同的質量和性能，並可以再循環無限次也不會有任何質量損失。

Speedo PowerFlex織物由78%Econyl尼龍和22%的Extra Life Lycra，比起傳統游泳衣織物更保持其形狀外觀長達10倍的壽命，並且是耐氯、不易鬆弛和耐拉扯。

“我們正在挑戰服裝製造廠，使其更具永續性，以及從垃圾掩埋場轉移廢材以重建他們的供應鏈。”Aquafil 總裁兼執行長Giulio Bonazzi表示。

對於Speedo，他補充道: “他們是真正幫助我們做到密閉回收循環，以創造一個更加永續性的的製造程序”。

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Aquafil and Speedo USA Launch World’s First Fabric Take-Back Program for Swimwear Industry

New ‘Speedo PowerFLEX Eco’ swimwear made from Aquafil’s 100% upcycled ECONYL® nylon; First ever take-back program turns leftover fabric scraps back into raw ECONYL, then new ‘Speedo’ swimsuits

Aquafil announces it has partnered with Speedo USA on a take-back program that will allow Speedo USA’s post-manufacturing swimwear scraps to be upcycled into Aquafil’s 100% regenerated ECONYL® nylon. The take-back program gives new life to leftover fabric scraps, which would otherwise end up in landfills, and allows them to be turned back into raw nylon fiber and eventually new swimsuits. Launching this week, the revolutionary new Speedo PowerFLEX Eco swimwear fabric is made from ECONYL and is endlessly recyclable, creating a closed-loop manufacturing partnership between the two companies.

“We are challenging apparel manufacturers to be more sustainable and restructure their supply chain to divert waste from landfill,” said Giulio Bonazzi, Chairman and CEO of Aquafil. “Our partnership with Speedo USA shows their commitment to the environment with the take-back program, but also their ingenuity in creating products from materials that can be recycled an infinite number of times. They are really helping us close the loop and create a more sustainable manufacturing process.”

In the swimwear industry, post-production fabric waste has not been suitable for traditional recycling due to its complex technical composition. However, Aquafil has developed a technology that can turn swimwear fabric and other blended waste materials into new raw nylon. The cutting-edge ECONYL Regeneration System takes manufacturing byproduct waste and nylon materials that have reached the end of their product life – such as abandoned fishing nets and old carpets – and re-engineers them into high-quality ECONYL Nylon 6 for the production of new carpets, sportswear and swimwear.

Now, through a first-ever take-back program for both Aquafil and Speedo USA, the ECONYL regeneration process will be used to separate usable nylon from Speedo’s blended post-production fabric scraps. The used nylon will then be upcycled into raw nylon fiber that can be made into new PowerFLEX Eco swimwear.

Made from 100% upcycled nylon waste materials, ECONYL is ideal for creating high-quality garments that are durable, lightweight, breathable and environmentally friendly. ECONYL offers the same quality and performance as traditionally manufactured nylon and can be recycled an infinite number of times without any loss in quality.

Benefitting both the environment and swimmers, PowerFLEX Eco fabric is comprised of 78% ECONYL nylon and 22% Extra Life LYCRA®. The resulting highly durable fabric retains its shape up to 10 times longer than traditional swimwear fabrics, is resistant to chlorine, sagging and bagging and is offered in styles designed for both performance and fitness swimmers at www.SpeedoUSA.com.

About Aquafil

Since 1969, Aquafil has been one of the leading players, both in Italy and globally, in the production of polyamide 6. The Aquafil Group has a presence in eight countries on three continents, employing more than 2700 staff at 15 plants located in Italy, Germany, Scotland, Slovenia, Croatia, the USA, Thailand and China. For more information, visit www.aquafil.com

About ECONYL®

Made from 100 percent regenerated nylon waste materials, Aquafil’s ECONYL fiber helps divert global waste streams from landfills and oceans and is used to produce a wide range of textile products such as sportswear, swimwear, and carpets. Aquafil started the ECONYL Regeneration System as a sustainability initiative in 2007 and within four years it became an important milestone and commercial driver within the company, representing a significant step towards the company’s involvement in the circular economy. The ECONYL Regeneration System is the world's most efficient industrial system for the production of Nylon 6 and is unique in that it boasts no loss of quality after reclamation and transformation of nylon waste. For more information, visit www.econyl.com

About Speedo

Speedo is the world’s leading swimwear brand. The teams at Speedo are passionate about life in and around the water, creating revolutionary new technologies, designs and innovations, and supporting swimming from the grassroots to the elite level. In the 1920’s Speedo made history with the Racerback, the world’s first non-wool suit. In 2008, Speedo redefined swimwear again with Fastskin LZR RACER, one of the fastest and most technologically advanced swimsuits ever created; 2011 saw Speedo unveil another world first with the Fastskin Racing System - a cap, goggle and suit designed to work together as one. Speedo is owned by Speedo Holdings B.V. and distributed in over 170 countries around the world; in North America and the Caribbean, Speedo is licensed exclusively to Warnaco Swimwear Inc., a wholly owned subsidiary of PVH Corp. To find out more, visit www.speedousa.com

About PVH Corp.

PVH Corp., one of the world’s largest apparel companies, owns and markets the iconic Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger brands worldwide. It is the world’s largest shirt and neckwear company and markets a variety of goods under its own brands, Van Heusen, Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, IZOD, ARROW, Warner’s and Olga, and its licensed brands, including Speedo, Geoffrey Beene, Kenneth Cole New York, Kenneth Cole Reaction, MICHAEL Michael Kors, Sean John, Chaps, and Ike Behar.

Original Article: BusinessWire

誰說不能做代工？「全球最大潛水衣製造商」薛長興掌握2成功秘訣

誰說不能做代工？全球最大潛水衣製造商薛長興掌握2成功秘訣

台灣企業遭人詬病只會代工、欠缺品牌，不過全球最大潛水衣製造商薛長興工業有不同想法，總經理薛敏誠認為，代工若能掌握關鍵技術及原料，永遠都不會變成末路及夕陽。

薛長興工業36年前因洞燭歐美潛水用品市場先機，從雨鞋製造商轉型製造潛水衣，目前是全球第一大潛水衣品製造供應商，市占率高達65%，年產量450萬件，為全球指標性企業，訂單主要來自美國、歐洲、澳洲、日本。

薛長興與其他公司不同的是，秉持著2大堅持。第一是只做代工、不做品牌；第二，儘管公司2014年營收高達新台幣112.7億元，但仍堅持不上市櫃。

近年來台灣科技業因代工，而陷入低毛利的競爭，究竟代工是否能有前途，薛敏誠有不同看法。

薛敏誠認為，代工若要有前途，就要掌握技術及關鍵原料。若能掌握上述2項關鍵技術，「代工其實永遠都不會變成末路及夕陽」，這也是薛長興讓競爭對手追趕不上的原因。

薛長興從潛水衣膠片原料(Neoprene sheets)都由自己自主研發，並掌握潛水衣供應鏈各環節關鍵技術，包括合成橡膠片製造(上游)、潛水衣布料貼合技術(中游)及潛水衣車縫技術(下游)，是全球第1家可從橡膠原料至潛水衣成品一手包辦的公司。

另一項重要原則就是，薛長興不與客戶爭利。薛敏誠表示，公司與客戶維持相當好的關係，有高達80%以上客戶，合作已超過20年。

為積極留才，薛長興今年更推出「員工久任入股方案」，並廣邀 500多位績優員工成為公司的股東，讓員工與公司形同在同一條船上。

薛敏誠表示，薛長興雖然是家族企業、也非上市櫃公司，但人員流動率非常低，並沒有招募或留才的問題。

另一方面，外界也相當好奇，薛長興工業去年創下百億營收，卻遲遲不加入上市櫃行列。薛敏誠解釋，由於公司自有資金非常高，若不需要大量資金，他認為沒必要上市櫃。

薛敏誠分析，一旦公司上市櫃，競爭者就容易從媒體或公開資訊瞭解公司經營策略、訂單、技術開發進度，且若要進行投資，還須經過董事會、股東會通過。

「我們可以3天、5天就決定要投資蓋廠」，但另一家上市櫃公司卻要好幾個月才能做出擴廠的決定。薛敏誠直接點出上市櫃公司所受到的限制，不追求上市櫃的薛長興，營運布局卻可更加靈活、彈性。

由於企業能否持續生存，相當程度取決於研發投入多寡，薛敏誠喊出，公司研發經費無上限，「需要的話，幾百萬、幾千萬我們都是很快都批准」，即使要花更多，若是為了新的技術而需投資新設備，公司都相當樂意投資，顯示其對研發的重視。

薛長興在潛水衣市場成功闖出一片天後，近年採取「水陸並進」策略，跨足彈性纖維及機能性布料製造，並建立纖維品牌Sheiflex及機能布料品牌Spanflex，並拓展至休閒運動服飾的製造，在紡織產業中占有一席之地，近年來每年營收約以20%、30%速度成長中。

不過，同樣考量不與客戶爭利，薛敏誠表示，公司已決定改變策略，不做自己的品牌，而改做代工。儘管目前運動成衣營收每年成長速度快，但相較於紡織業大廠的營收還是算少，他樂觀看待未來幾年將有「更大開花結果」。

【新聞來源：大紀元】

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》台灣紡織撐起全球運動時尚半邊天 | Stretchable Textiles in Vibrant Colors

Gerber科技公司推出3D成衣設計視覺模組 | Gerber Adds 3D Tech to AccuMark CAD Software

Gerber科技公司推出3D成衣設計視覺模組

Gerber科技公司推出具有3D視覺科技的AccuMark 10，是整合CAD圖樣設計、分級及排版的軟體。

Gerber科技公司的CAD產品管理總監Mary McFadden表示：「在開發及樣版製作中，虛擬樣版是減少時間和成本的解決方案」。

「與我們的AccuMark 10軟體結合後，3D技術盡可能減少，甚至消除設計、打樣及商品採購團隊過程中的步驟及相互影響，以協助設計師優化自身時間，加速重要的回饋週期。我們的快速開發週期將提升AccuMark現有的系統效能」。

該新工具可以協助所有的設計及開發過程。「它能幫助製模工人瞭解該圖樣是否可行，協助設計師改進作品的細節，並形象化成衣模型的合身度及舒適度，不需透過實際的打樣製作」，McFadden說。

McFadden補充說：「這項技術能輔助運用於電子商務上的所有商品採購管道」。

Gerber科技公司的3D解決方案充分利用名為Blender的圖像與動畫技術，該技術廣泛應用於動畫、電影、電玩與仿真產業。3D解決方案以具有製模、紋理化、打光及仿真能力為傲，轉而提供成衣合身度及活動度的真實視覺效果。

【相關文章】
》2016年智慧服裝將大量出貨
》新3D列印技術能「印出」服裝 | 3D Printing Clothing
》壓縮衣、緊身衣與塑身衣 | Compression Garments
》「成衣+穿戴科技」智能紡織品亮相 | Smart garments and wearable technology set for growth

【新聞來源：台灣紡拓會】

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Gerber Adds 3D Tech to AccuMark CAD Software

Gerber Technology announces the availability of 3D visualization technology as an optional module for AccuMark® 10, its integrated CAD pattern design, grading, planning and marker making software.

"Virtual sampling is the answer to reducing time and cost in development and sample making," said Mary McFadden, director of CAD product management with Gerber Technology. "Combined with our AccuMark 10 software, 3D technology makes it possible to reduce and even eliminate process steps and interactions among design, sample making and merchandising teams to help designers optimize their time and speed up important feedback cycles. Our rapid development cycle will elevate AccuMark beyond current available systems."

According to McFadden, 3D technology is a visualization tool that assists all along the design and development process. "It will help the pattern maker to know whether the pattern works in the design, the designer to refine the details of the creation, and to visualize the fit and comfort of the garment on the model, all without actually making the garment," she said. "This technology can assist all the way through to merchandising, where it can be used in e-commerce."

Gerber's 3D solution leverages sophisticated 3D graphics and animation technology called Blender. The technology has been used widely in the animation, movie, video game and simulation industries. Its broad spectrum of modeling, texturing, lighting and simulation capabilities make it one of the most popular Open Source 3D graphics applications in the world. "Blender is an extremely robust simulation engine which allows us to get a realistic visualization of fit and movement of a garment. Our internal development team and the large global community of developers working with Blender give us a tremendous edge advancing the use of 3D." McFadden said.

Gerber was one of the first to introduce pattern making software for the apparel industry. Today, AccuMark CAD systems are used by more than 15,000 customers, including many of the world's leading fashion brands. Gerber has launched technologies that have become the benchmarks for CAD pattern making, grading, planning and marker making software, as well as for automated spreading and cutting machines.

"The applications of 3D technology are broad and will have an impact on the digital worlds of garment development and merchandising, and ultimately on the physical worlds of production and fit," said Mike Elia, Gerber Technology's CEO. "Gerber's breadth of technology positions us to lead the way in creating solutions for our customers that enhance the design process, automate manufacturing workflows and provide full product line management."

Original Article: Apparel Magazine

把RFID晶片紡成紗線將顛覆成衣業發展 | RFID chips, antennas are woven into a yarn

把RFID晶片紡成紗線將顛覆成衣業發展

成衣標籤使用RFID技術已經普及了十年以上，但如果是把電子零件織進衣服的纖維裡，而且還能丟進洗衣機洗。一家總部位於法國格勒諾布爾（Grenoble）的新創公司Primo1D正在開發此項技術。

成立於2013年8月的Primo1D是由法國原子能委員會（French Atomic Energy Commission, CEA）旗下的微電子研究機構CEA-Leti獨立的公司；這家新創公司已經有效地將“可穿戴設備”的概念推向新的高度。

現在的智慧服裝類可穿戴設備，通常是將電子零件包在一起，能放進衣物中的特製插槽（口袋）、也可移除；Primo1D所開發的電子元件，則是讓RFID晶片直接鏈結兩條一組的導線（扮演天線的功能），並紡成紗；因此，在這種E-Thread纖維中，就有不需要電源的被動式RFID標籤，能適用任何一種標準UHF RFID讀取器。

Primo1D執行長Emmanuel Arene接受EE Times美國版編輯訪問時表示，他預估該公司能在2016年產生第一筆營收；其E-Thread技術的初步應用，將會是醫療機構與旅館/酒店使用的床單與各種紡織品，這類織品需要專業的清洗程式及庫存管理。

而Primo1D並非一家晶片公司，其創新技術基本上是開發微電子封裝的特殊製程；該公司的RFID晶片供應商是美國業者Impinj。「我們向Impinj採購8吋晶圓等級的晶片，然後在晶圓片上添加一些製程步驟，因此能讓封裝後的晶片更耐用」，Arene解釋，其製程技術最早是在CEA- Leti的無塵室所開發。

據瞭解，Primo1D的E-Thread技術本身、製程及部分應用，總共取得了20項專利；Primo1D有該技術的獨家使用權，而專利所有權人則屬於CEA-Leti。目前Primo1D已經與一些紡織業者合作。

Arene補充指出，一旦RFID晶片與天線能與紡織紗線（包括棉、聚酯纖維、毛，或是塑膠）整合，紡織業者就能以標準紡織設備，將它織成各種成衣、床單、奢侈品，或是工業用產品；而盡可能獲得紡織產業對該技術的應用，將是此新技術拓展市場的關鍵。

【相關文章】
》VERSAPERM公司開發了新的測試儀器來測量織物滲透性 | Versaperm develops multi-gas meter for quicker testing of fabrics
》Google著手開發高科技「觸碰型布料」| Google developing smart fabrics
》石墨烯(Graphene)的提出顛覆了穿戴式科技的遊戲規則 | Shaping The Future Of Wearables: New Technique Embeds Flexible Graphene Electrodes Into Clothes

【新聞來源：台灣紡拓會】

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RFID chips, antennas are woven into a yarn

GRENOBLE, France — The tagging of garments via RFID-based labels has been commonplace for more than a decade. But what if electronic components could be threaded into the very fabric of clothes and even survive the washing machine?

Enter Primo1D, an E-Thread company based in Grenoble.

Primo1D, founded in August, 2013, is a spinoff of the CEA-Leti, a microelectronics research institute under the umbrella of the French Atomic Energy Commission (CEA). The startup has effectively pushed the concept of “wearables” to new extremes.

Instead of wearable devices typically housed in an external electronics package that can be inserted into (or removed from) a slot in clothing, Primo1D developed a microelectronic package that allows an RFID chip to be directly connected to a set of two conductive wires ( which function as antennas) and woven into a yarn. Within the E-Thread is a passive RFID tag that requires no power supply and can be read by any standard UHF RFID reader.

Emmanuel Arene, Primo1D CEO, told EE Times that he expects his company to generate its first revenue in 2016. The initial applications of E-Thread technology will be in linens and textile products used by hospitals and hotels, which need to be professionally laundered and whose inventories need to be managed.

Technology

Primo1D isn’t a chip company. Primo1D’s innovation lies in the development of a special technique and process applied to microelectronic packaging. The supplier of RFID chips for Primo1D is Impinj.  “We buy 8-inch wafer-level chips from Impinj. Then we add process steps on wafers so that we can make these packages durable,” explained Arene. That process technology was originally developed in a clean room by CEA-Leti.

Primo 1D's E-Thread solution is protected by 20 patents covering the assembly itself, the manufacturing process and some fields of application. Primo 1D has the exclusive right to use the technology, while CEA-Leti owns and manages the patents.

Original Article: EETimes

VERSAPERM公司開發了新的測試儀器來測量織物滲透性 | Versaperm develops multi-gas meter for quicker testing of fabrics

VERSAPERM公司開發了新的測試儀器來測量織物滲透性

Versaperm公司位於英國總部的專家正在進行織物透氣性的測試，已開發出多種氣體滲透儀來測量織物的滲透性。

傳統檢測織物的水蒸氣滲透方法是採ISO15496:20049的標準方法作業。該標準可以利用專業的水槽進行重量測試分析。然而，這個測試方法是很耗時的，並且有時一個測量數據可能要花幾週才可以得到。

Versaperm公司開發多種氣體滲透測試器以快速測量織物的水蒸氣滲透性。大多數織物可在30分鐘的時間內被測量完成和其測量準確度可達百萬之一的範圍。

此外，這個裝置可以測量氧氣、二氧化碳、溶劑、碳氫化合物和其它幾種氣體的織物滲透性。

多氣體滲透測試器可以購買供公司內部使用。也可以將測試樣品送到Versaperm公司進行測試。

希望該裝置將使高性能織物生產商能夠將產品快速的商業化。

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【新聞來源：台灣紡拓會】

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Versaperm develops multi-gas meter for quicker testing of fabrics

Versaperm, a leading manufacturer of testing equipment, has introduced a multi-gas meter, designed to measure the vapour permeability of waterproof and windproof fabrics very quickly.

For many fabrics, results can be produced in around thirty minutes, which is under a hundredth of the time required for conventional (gravimetric) measurements, according to the manufacturer.

Testing fabrics

The rapid pace of change in the textile industry, and particularly in fashion for sports and outdoor clothing, has placed a strain on fabric producers to introduce new performance fabrics in ever shorter timescales.

New fabrics and textiles need to be not only waterproof and windproof but also tried, tested and breathable.  One of the problems is that testing fabrics against the ISO (15496:2004) standard can take weeks to make a single permeability measurement, the company reports.
The multi-gas meter, developed by the testing equipment specialist is designed to help solve this problem, by significantly accelerating the fabric’s testing time.

Standards for measuring

Versaperm’s instrumental techniques are said to ensure that the critical testing stage is no longer a barrier to innovation or production. The system is suitable for both product development and the quality control of textiles, fabrics and garments, the company reports.
Most of the new materials freely allow the passage of water as a vapour (breathable), but strongly resist it as both water droplets and wind.
Although the ISO standard for measuring the waterproofness, windproofness and breathability of textiles is rapidly being overtaken by developments in technology, Versaperm also produces conventional gravimetric systems to guarantee compliance.

Versaperm

Versaperm is a leader in the measurement of gas permeability. The company’s instruments, testing service and consultancy are interlinked. It also supplies, services and maintains the leading Gemco range of seal test equipment, which measures and verifies the integrity and strength of seams in bagged, wrapped and boxed products where seal integrity is essential.

The company’s ability to design vapour permeability instruments is based on its technological expertise married to its experience in testing a wide variety of materials and gases.

認識色牢度 | What is Color Fastness?

色牢度 （Color fastness）又稱染色牢度、染色堅牢度。是指紡織品的顏色對在加工和使用過程中各種作用的抵抗力。根據試樣的變色和未染色貼襯織物的沾色來評定牢度等級。紡織品色牢度測試是紡織品內在質量測試中一項常規檢測項目。

紡織品在其使用過程中會受到光照、洗滌、熨燙、汗漬、摩擦和化學藥劑等各種外界的作用，有些印染紡織品還經過特殊的整理加工，如樹脂整理、阻燃整理、砂洗、磨毛等，這就要求印染紡織品的色澤相對保持一定牢度。

色牢度好與差，直接涉及人體的健康安全，色牢度差的產品在穿著過程中，碰到雨水、汗水就會造成面料上的顏料脫落褪色，則其中染料的分子和重金屬離子等都有可能通過皮膚被人體吸收而危害人體皮膚的健康，另一方面還會影響穿在身上的其它服裝被沾色，或者與其他衣物洗滌時染臟其他衣物。

(相關閱讀: 衣物髒汙清洗技巧 | How to deal with Clothing Stains?)

染色牢度

所謂染色牢度（簡稱色牢度），是指染色織物在使用或加工過程中，經受外部因素（擠壓、摩擦、水洗、雨淋、曝晒、光照、海水浸漬、唾液浸漬、水漬、汗漬等等）作用下的退色程度，是織物的一項重要指標。因織物在加工和使用過程中所受的條件差別很大，要求各不相同，故現行的試驗方法大部分都是按作用的環境及條件進行模擬試驗或綜合試驗，所以染色牢度的試驗方法內容相當廣泛。

但縱觀國際標準組織（ISO）、美國染色家和化學家協會（AATCC）、日本（JIS）、英國（BS）等諸多標準，最常用的還是耐洗、耐光、耐摩擦及耐汗漬、耐熨燙、耐氣候等項。而在實際工作中，主要是根據產品的最終用途及產品標準來確定檢測項目，如毛紡織產品標準中規定必須檢測耐日晒色牢度，針織內衣當然要測耐汗漬牢度，而戶外用紡織品（如遮陽傘、燈箱布、蓬蓋材料）則當然要檢測其耐氣候色牢度。

染色牢度的概念

染色牢度是對染色、印花織物的品質要求。因為染過色的織物在穿著和保管中會因光、汗、摩擦、洗滌、熨燙等原因發生裉色或變色現象，從而影響織物或服裝的外觀美感。染色狀態變異的性質或程度可用染色牢度來表示。織物的染色牢度與纖維種類、紗線結構、織物組織、印染方法、染料種類及外界作用力大小有關。

可分為日曬牢度、水洗或皂洗牢度、摩擦牢度、汗漬牢度、熨燙牢度和昇華牢度等。

1． 日曬牢度

日曬牢度是指有顏色的織物受日光作用變色的程度。其測試方法既可採用日光照曬也可採用日光機照曬，將照曬後的試樣褪色程度與標準色樣進行對比，分為8級，8級最好，1級最差。日曬牢度差的織物切忌陽光下長時間曝曬，宜於放在通風處陰乾。

2． 洗滌牢度

水洗或皂洗牢度是指染色織物經過洗滌液洗滌後色澤變化的程度。通常採用灰色分級樣卡作為評定標準，即依靠原樣和試樣褪色後的色差來進行評判。洗滌牢度分為5個等級，5級最好，1級最差。洗滌牢度差的織物宜乾洗，如若進行濕洗，則需加倍注意洗滌條件，如洗滌溫度不能過高、時間不能過長等。

3． 摩擦牢度

摩擦牢度是指染色織物經過摩擦後的掉色程度，可分為幹態摩擦和濕態摩擦。摩擦牢度以白布沾色程度作為評價原則，共分5級（1~5），數值越大，表示摩擦牢度越好。摩擦牢度差的織物使用壽命受到限制。

4． 汗漬牢度

汗漬牢度是指染色織物沾浸汗液後的掉色程度。汗漬牢度由於人工配製的汗液成份不盡相同，因而一般除單獨測定外，還與其他色牢度結合起來考核。汗漬牢度分為1~5級，數值越大越好。

5． 熨燙牢度

熨燙牢度是指染色織物在熨燙時出現的變色或褪色程度。這種變色、褪色程度是以熨斗同時對其他織物的沾色來評定的。熨燙牢度分為1~5級，5級最好，1級最差。測試不同織物的熨燙牢度時，應選擇好試驗用熨斗溫度。

6． 昇華牢度

昇華牢度是指染色織物在存放中發生的昇華現象的程度。昇華牢度用灰色分級樣卡評定織物經幹熱壓燙處理後的變色、褪色和白布沾色程度，共分5級，1級最差，5級最好。
正常織物的染色牢度，一般要求達到3級以上才能符合穿著需要。

日晒牢度測試儀

洗滌牢度測試儀

摩擦牢度測試儀

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Colour fastness is a term used in the dyeing of textile materials, meaning resistance of the material's colour to fading or running. The term is usually used in the context of clothes. The first known use of the word colorfast was in 1916. In general, clothing should be tested for colourfastness before using bleach or other cleaning products.

Color Fastness:

Color fastness is one of the important factors in case of buyers demand. The outstandingly important property of a dyed material is the fastness of the shade of color. Color fastness refers to the resistance of color to fade or bleed of a dyed or printed textile materials to various types of influences e.g. water, light, rubbing, washing, perspiration etc. to which they are normally exposed in textile manufacturing and in daily use. We have written a lot of articles on color fastness.

General Principle:

A specimen of the textile to be tested, with the adjacent fabric attached is subjected to washing under specifiend conditions. Te extent of any change in color and that of the staining of the adjacent fabric are assessed and the rating is expressed in fastness numbers.

There are two types of adjacent fabrics; (1) single fibre fabric and multiple fibre fabric. In the case of multifiber fabric only one specimen is required and in the of single fiber fabric two adjacent faabric are required.

Standards of Color Fastness: 

1. AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists) technical manual:
Describes 66 numbers of different color fastness tests.

2. SDC (Society of Dyers and Colorists):
In 1927, SDC (Europe) made fastness test committee.

3. ISO(International Organization for Standardization):
In 1947, ISO made color sub committee. ISO also grades the fastness:
For light fastness: 1~8
For other fastness: 1~5

Factors Affecting the Color Fastness Properties: 

1. The chemical nature of the fiber. For example, cellulosic fibers dyed with reactive or vat dyes will show good fastness properties. Protein fibers dyed with acid mordant and reactive dyes will achieve good fastness properties and so on. That is to say compatibility of dye with the fiber is very important.
2. The molecular structure (e.g.) of a dye molecule: If the dye molecule is larger in size, it will be tightly entrapped inside the inter-polymer chain space of a fiber. Thus the fastness will be better.
3. The manner in which the dye is bonded to the fiber or the physical form present.
4. The amount of dye present in the fiber i.e. depth of shade. A deep shade will be less fast than a pale or light shade.
5. The presence of other chemicals in the material.
6. The actual conditions prevailing during exposure.

If the color removes itself from the garment onto the cloth, you should not use the cleaning product on the clothing. Important color fastness tests are given below:

1. Color Fastness to Washing
2. Color Fastness to light
3. Color Fastness to perspiration
4. Color Fastness to Water
5. Color Fastness to Rubbing
6. Color Fastness to Crocking

Color Fastness to Washing

In the test, change in color of the textile and also staining of color on the adjacent fabric are assessed. A 10 x 4 cm swatch of the coloured fabric is taken and is sandwitched between two adjacent fabric and stitched, The sample and the adjacent fabric are washed together. FIve different types of washing are specified as different washing mthods.

Fastness to Wash
Sr.No	Method	Washing severity	Soap+Soda in grams/liter	Time in minutes	Temperature	Steel balls
1	IS:687:79	Very mild like hand wash	5	30	40+/- 2	Nil
2	IS:3361:79	5 times severe than method 1	5	45	50+/- 2	Nil
3	IS:764:79	Mild washing	5 + 2	30	60+/-2	Nil
4	IS:765:79	Severe washing	5 + 2	30	95+/-2	10
5	IS:3417:79	Severe washing	5 + 2	4 hrs	95+/-2	10

The solution for washing should be prepared to the required temperature of washing. The liquor material ratio is 50:1 . After soaping treatment, remove the speciment, rinse twice in cold water and then in running cold water under a tap. Squeeze it and air dry at a temperture not exceeding 60°C. The change in color and staining is evaluated with the help of grey scales.

Color Fastness to light

The purpose of Color fastness to light test is to determine how much the color will fade when exposed to a known light source. It is an off line quality assurance system. Generally man wears the fabric and goes outside of the home for doing their job. In day; sun light fall on the fabric surface. So it needs to know how much protection ability have a fabric to sun light. It is determined by an experiment called color fastness to light. To measure the color fastness a blue scale is used. After completing the test, sample is compared with the blue scale.

Principle of Color Fastness to Light: 

This test measures the resistance to fading of dyed textile when exposed to day light. The test sample is exposed to light for a certain time which is about 24 hours to 72 hours or by customer/buyer demand and compare the change with original unexposed sample the changes are assessed by Blue Scales.

Light Fastness Grades:

Grade	Degree of Fading	Light Fastness Type
8	No fading	Outstanding
7	Very slight fading	Excellent
6	Slight fading	Very good
5	Moderate fading	Good
4	Appreciable fading	Moderate
3	Significant fading	Fair
2	Extensive fading	Poor
1	Very extensive fading	Very poor

Color Fastness to Perspiration:

The garments a\which come into contact with the body where perspiration is heavy may suffer serious local discoloration. This test is intended to determine the resistance of color of dyed textile to the action of acidic and alkaline perspiration. Before knowing about the Color Fastness to perspiration you must have to know about Color Fastness to Wash and Color Fastness to Rubbing.

Color Fastness to Water

Color fastness to water is designed to measure the resistance to water of dyed, printed, or otherwise colored textile yarns and fabrics.The test method by which this test is carried out is AATCC 107-1991 or ISO 105 E01. This method is to assess the degree of cross staining which may occur when garments are left in contact when damp. The test measures the resistance to water of any colored textiles.

Color Fastness to Rubbing

This test is designed to determine the degree of color which may be transferred from the surface of a colored fabric to a specify test cloth for rubbing (which could be dry and Wet).

There are two test methods for rubbing fastness.

1.ISO-105-X12
2.AATCC-08

In ISO-105-X12 the wet pickup of the rubbing cloth is 100% .While in AATCC-08 the wet Pickup of the rubbing cloth is 65%.We check rubbing by Dry and Wet methods. In wet rubbing we wet the rubbing cloth according to test method and give rating by comparing the Staining with the gray scale.

Similarly for dry rubbing we check the rubbing with dry rubbing cloth and compare the staining With gray scale for ratings.Color Fastness to rubbing is a main test which is always required for every colored fabric either it is Printed or dyed.

If the color fastness to rubbing is good then its other properties like Washing fastness and durability etc improves automatically because the rubbing is a method to check the fixation of the color on the fabric. So if the fixation is good its washing properties will be good.

Rubbing Fastness depends on: 

Nature of the Color
Depth of the Shade
Construction of the FabricNature of the color Each color either it is pigment ,Reactive ,Disperse or direct has its own fastness properties to rubbing. There are some colors like black, Red ,Burgundy ,Navy blue which have poor Color fastness properties because of their chemical structure.

Like Black color is a carbon base color and the particle size of carbon is large than the other colors that's why its rubbing properties are poor. Similarly red and blue are in the same case. So to improve the color fastness we add more binder to improve the fastness properties of these colors. It doesn't mean that we can not achieve the best results with these colors. The required results can achieve but production cost will be increase. On the other hand the construction of the fabric also effects the fastness properties.

If the rubbing fastness on 100.80/40.40 is 3 on the gray scale it will be 2-3 on 52.52/22.22 with the same printing parameters. So always keep in mind these effects during finalize the required parameters with your customer.

Color Fastness for Crocking

Crocking is simply the transfer of color from a fabric onto another white test fabric. The more color is transferred, the more the fabric "crocks". Crocking determines the amount of color transferred from the surface of colored textile material to other surfaces by rubbing.

編排整理 Edited by: ACOTEX Fabric Talks 布料知識庫

NIKE運動手環FuelBand因不實宣傳必須賠償消費者240萬美元 | Nike Settles Class Action Lawsuit over FuelBand

NIKE運動手環FuelBand因不實宣傳必須賠償消費者240萬美元

據7月26日媒體報導，NIKE和蘋果日前結束了一項為期兩年的集體訴訟。這起集體訴訟的原告方指控NIKE誇大宣傳FuelBand手環，要求NIKE和行銷該手環的蘋果公司進行賠償。現在原告和被告達成和解協定。

原告方稱，NIKE的FuelBand手環不能像廣告宣傳地那樣準確定位步伐、計算卡路里消耗量。訴狀稱NIKE和蘋果明知該產品存在這些缺點卻繼續銷售。

代理此次集體訴訟的律師表示，這兩家公司在商店內、電視和網路上宣傳FuelBand手環，誤導消費者。蘋果在店內銷售各種型號的FuelBand手環，直到今(2015)年3月才停止。由於FuelBand手環未能實現廣告所宣傳的定位功能，NIKE還違反了保證條款。

根據這份和解協定，在2012年1月19日和2015年6月17日之間購買了FuelBand手環的顧客可以獲得15美元賠款或價值25美元可在NIKE實體店門或者網路商店消費的禮券。

雖然蘋果被列入集體訴訟的被告，但蘋果公司對賠償不承擔責任，也不需支付訴訟費用，一切費用由NIKE公司支付，NIKE須賠償消費者共240萬美元。

此次和解協議的公平聽證會將於本(2015)年10月4日舉行，屆時將討論和解條款、律師費用和對集體訴訟代表的報酬。

【資料來源：中國紡織經濟信息網】

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》NIKE取代adidas成為NBA獨家服裝供應商 | Nike Will Replace Adidas as N.B.A.’s Official On-Court Apparel Provider
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【新聞來源：台灣紡拓會】

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Nike Settles Class Action Lawsuit over FuelBand

Nike may have stopped making new versions of its FuelBand fitness tracker, but that has not ended its headaches over the device.

The company has settled a class action lawsuit brought by customers regarding whether Nike+ FuelBand actually did what it was advertised as offering. Apple was also named in the suit, and while both have settled, neither company admits to any wrongdoing.

It is a quick end to potentially messy litigation that might have dragged on long after the lifespan of the wearable line, which the company has moved on from. The deal provides consumers with a bit -- albeit a small bit -- of relief.

What the lawsuit claimed?
Details of the class-cation lawsuit and its settlement are posted at nikefuelbandsettlement.com.

The lawsuit claims that Nike and Apple engaged in violations of consumer protection laws in connection with the Nike+ FuelBand. More specifically, the lawsuit alleges, among other things, that false and/or misleading statements were made regarding the Nike+ FuelBand's ability to accurately track calories, steps, and NikeFuel, and that there were breaches of the warranty terms of the Nike+ FuelBand.

The settlement stops the court from making a ruling, which spares Nike the possibility of being found to have made misleading claims, and it allows the company to pay up without admitting it did anything wrong.


What do the consumers get?
Under the settlement, Nike has agreed to provide either a $15 cash payment or a $25 gift card redeemable at Nike-owned stores in the U.S. and Puerto Rico, and online at Nike.com, for each Nike+ FuelBand purchased by members of the Settlement Class during the class period for which a valid claim is submitted in time, according to the website.

The deal applies to customers who purchased the fitness tracker between January 19, 2012, and June 17, 2015.

This is a win-win
This type of lawsuit is not at all uncommon in the sporting goods world, where claims of benefits or what a device can do tend to be a little bit grey. In this case, consumers get a little bit of financial payback for a product the company has moved away from anyway.

Nike has to spend some money, but it would have done that continuing to fight the case. This deal makes it go away without the company admitting fault. And, if people choose the gift certificate over the cash, they could, of course, spend more at Nike, allowing the company to come out ahead.

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Original Article: INVESTOPEDIA