2015年7月28日

高科技服裝時代腳步近,運動人士期待智慧衣著登場

高科技服裝時代腳步近,運動人士期待智慧衣著登場


德國數位公會(Bitkom)最近對外報導,根據該公會研究單位向德國全國年齡超過14歲的1,014位民眾進行問卷調查結果顯示,當前在德國以運動為樂的人數高達5,700萬人(2014年德國全國人口總數為8,110萬人),在這些運動愛好人士中,對智慧服裝感興趣的人數多達1,400萬人。換言之,每四人中即有一人有興趣,其中,甚至有12%表示,無論如何一定要買此類產品,而另有13%則表示,可以考慮。

此次問卷調查同時顯示,年輕人對智慧衣著尤其感興趣,可由年齡層介於14至29歲間高達30%的占有率可看出其中之一般,但令人驚異的是,年齡超過65歲的高齡民眾竟也顯示高度興趣,其占幅達23%,倘按性別分計,男性占幅(27%)比率則稍高於女性(23%),然一些僅將運動視為休閒活動的民眾,對智慧衣著則興趣缺缺,其中表示興趣低或沒興趣的人數比率高達72%。

所謂的高科技衣著主要係指一些安裝了電子感應裝置的衣服或鞋子,可測量運動人士在跑步或健身之際,其呼吸、心律或腳下滑動的力量,可將這些資訊傳送到智慧手機上面。目前不少運動用品製造商正與資訊業者結合,合作研發智慧服裝,然此類產品上市,仍需假以時日,現有產品不是仍處於研發階段,就是價格過高,市場接受度尚不夠普及。
   
【資料來源: 杜塞道夫台灣貿易中心】


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讀取你的身體資料!世界名牌Ralph Lauren Polo推智慧穿戴科技服飾 | Ralph Lauren Polo Tech shirt reads wearer's biological and physiological info
石墨烯(Graphene)的提出顛覆了穿戴式科技的遊戲規則 | Shaping The Future Of Wearables: New Technique Embeds Flexible Graphene Electrodes Into Clothes

2015年7月24日

預測亞馬遜很快將成為美國最大的成衣零售商 | Amazon Will Replace Macy’s as Top U.S. Apparel Retailer by 2017, Analyst Says

預測亞馬遜很快將成為美國最大的成衣零售商

亞馬遜(Amazon.com, Inc.)公佈上季財報前,已經有幾家券商調升了對該公司的股票評級。券商Cowen的分析師團隊甚至預測,到2017年,亞馬遜將超過梅西百貨成為美國最大的成衣零售商。

Cowen的分析師發表研究報告稱,預計到2020年,亞馬遜在美國的零售成衣年度成交總額將從2015年的160億美元增長至520億美元,市場佔有率從5%上升至14%,並在2017年將超越梅西百貨。

分析師認為,亞馬遜的成衣和服飾品業務還將推動電子產品和百貨產品銷量的上升,後者占亞馬遜總收入的比重約為70%。

值得注意的是,創立於1994年的亞馬遜直到2002年才進入服裝市場。資料顯示,過去半年,亞馬遜的成衣零售銷售業務的成長速度快於Walmart和Target,同比成長率達到29%,遠遠超過Walmart的3%和Target的-2%。

對於Walmart和Target來說,這還不是最糟糕的。研究報告稱,2015年上半年,在Target和Walmart購物的用戶中,11%的人同時在亞馬遜上買了衣服,這個數字高於去年上半年的8%。

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Amazon Will Replace Macy’s as Top U.S. Apparel Retailer by 2017, Analyst Says


NEW YORK (TheStreet) -- Research firm Cowen and Company has upgraded Amazon its rating of Amazon to outperform, saying it expects the e-commerce giant will overtake Macy's as the largest domestic apparel retailer in the next year or two.

"Amazon is winning in large Retail and Tech markets given long-term investments, per our proprietary data/analysis," Cowen analyst John Blackledge wrote in a research note Monday morning. "We expect Amazon to be the #1 US Apparel retailer by '17, driven by accelerating purchaser growth, and continue to gain traction in other retail verticals."

Blackledge also upgraded his price target for Amazon to $565, up from $435. Amazon shares closed at $483.01 on Friday, and opened higher Monday, trading above $490 just before 10 a.m.


As it stands, Amazon's apparel and accessories business drives about 70% of the company's total revenue, according to Blackledge. Cowen estimates that Amazon's apparel business will grow from $16 billion in gross merchandise volume (GMV) for 2015 to $52 billion GMV in 2020, which would take Amazon from 5% of the total U.S. apparel industry to 14% market share. Were Amazon to follow this track as Cowen expects, it would displace Macy's as the No. 1 U.S. apparel retailer by 2017.

Must Read: How Etsy Is Helping Lead the Shift In E-Commerce

Some of the factors that are contributing to Amazon's wild success in the apparel industry include an expanding selection, improving brand relationships, and superior fulfillment and technology.

In the Cowen Internet Retail Tracker for July, Amazon continued to show high growth overall, but especially in apparel.

Amazon's U.S. apparel purchasers grew 36% year-over-year in the first half of 2015, up from 28% last year. That growth is even higher for Prime subscribers, which grew 57% year-over-year this year, compared to 43% last year.

Amazon has 34% more apparel purchasers than Target (TGT), and 2% more than Walmart (WMT). And an increasing number of Target and Walmart purchasers also bought apparel on Amazon, meaning that Target and Walmart's U.S. apparel share is under pressure.

"Amazon's long-game investment philosophy in massive Retail and Technology markets is increasingly paying off," Blackledge wrote. "Amazon should continue to win as it continues to attack a $2.3 trillion US retail total available market as well as international e-commerce leadership."

Amazon reports second-quarter earnings on Thursday after the close of trading. Analysts surveyed by Thomson Reuters expect the Seattle-based retailer to lose 14 cents a share on $22.37 billion in revenue.

Original Article: TheStreet

2015年7月23日

HTC延後Under Armour「穿戴手環Grip」上市計畫 | HTC delays Under Armour-branded wearable after testing and user feedback

HTC延後Under Armour「穿戴手環Grip」上市計畫


大型科技公司在穿戴手環上,投入了許多資源,不過 HTC (2498-TW) 在其穿戴性裝置上,顯得有些膽怯。

3 月時,HTC 宣布與運動品牌 Under Armour 合作,將推出穿戴手環 HTC Grip。HTC 在巴塞隆納的 MWC 上,給出了發表日期,大約在春季。

然而現在 HTC 卻向新聞部落格《Mashable》表示,出貨將延遲,且將經由「一連串穿戴測試,及用戶回饋」後再做修改。

藉由與UnderArmour的合作,我們不斷改善我們的視界,以及對於健康及健身的切入點,我們的目標是提供業界最佳的產品給我們的顧客及合作夥伴。經過一連串的穿戴測試以及用戶回饋後,我們決定將Grip發表延後,與整個健身產品線一同推出。這將是由 UA RECORD 推出、藝術品般的笧品。我們對於新的產品線相當興奮,隨著發行日期接近,也會公布更多細節。

雖然目前不能確定的,就是用戶回饋是否為正面。不過 HTC 應該是想確保產品能成功。如果產品真的夠好,應該不用推延,在原先預期的時間點推出。

這是明智之舉,畢竟市場上現在充滿了許多穿戴裝置,但沒有一個有忠誠粉絲及良好的市占。

HTC Grip 預定的售價為 199 美元,是公司 Re 產品線的一部分。

除了改善風格外,HTC 也應該考率結合健康平台如 Google Fit 與 Apple Health。不過截至目前為止,HTC 仍未透露與 Under Armour 合作的產品的細節。

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HTC delays Under Armour-branded wearable after testing and user feedback


As big tech companies invest more resources into developing wristband wearables, HTC is getting cold feet with its own wearable plans.

In March, the company teamed up with Under Armour to built the HTC Grip. The manufacturer showed it off at Mobile World Congress in Barcelona and gave it a spring launch date.

But now, HTC confirmed to Mashable that it's pulling back on shipping the product and will rework it after "extensive wear testing and user feedback."

Through our partnership with Under Armour, we have continued to refine our vision and approach to the health and fitness category. Our goal is to offer best-in-class products for our customers and partners. After extensive wear testing and user feedback, we have decided to align GRIP with the entire product portfolio for health and fitness launching later this year. This will be a state-of-the-art comprehensive portfolio of products for this category powered by UA RECORD. We are excited to launch this new comprehensive product suite and will share further details as we get closer to launch.

Although it's unclear whether or not the user feedback was positive, we can assume the company wants to make sure the Grip is a success — and if it was good as is, the launch wouldn't have been delayed.

The news, first reported by The Verge, could be a wise move for the company. There are countless wristband wearables on the market but only a few (including Fitbit and Jawbone) with a loyal following and strong market share. There are countless wristband wearables on the market but only a few (including Fitbit and Jawbone) with a loyal following and strong market share.

HTC's Grip, scheduled to cost $199 and a part of the brand's Re line, is a fitness tracker aimed at runners but with a healthy sprinkling of smartwatch capabilities (including GPS), too. It would mark the company's first attempt at the saturated space, but looked strikingly similar to the Nike+ Fuelband (in size, style and design, with a low-resolution display), a piece of hardware that is no longer for sale. Wearables are becoming increasingly sleeker, slimmer and more fashionable — characteristics that didn't exactly sum up the aesthetic of the Grip.

In addition to improving on style, HTC should consider integrating the device with health platforms such as Google Fit or Apple Health — hubs that pull in data from various wearables and apps to allow users to see a bigger picture of their overall health and fitness logging.

But as of now, the company didn't provide any additional details about how the Grip will be worked into a new lineup of Under Armour products in the future, or what those products will look like.

Original Ariticle: Mashable

2015年7月20日

Adidas新鞋款使用回收的「海洋廢棄物」 | Adidas unveils sports shoes made from recycled ocean waste

Adidas新鞋款使用回收的「海洋廢棄物」


據稱,adidas已開發出號稱是世界上第一雙鞋面完全來自海洋廢棄物回收紗和長纖製成的新款鞋子,這是與海洋永續發展團體Parley for the Oceans的海洋合作計劃的一部分。

這是adidas與其合作夥伴組織在最近的一次紐約聯合國氣候變遷會議中所宣布,這個概念鞋說明了adidas及Parley正打算採取的消費性海洋塑料製品未來的趨勢,在今年稍晚將會推出此一產品。

這款鞋是經歷110天的遠征追踪非法盜獵船,最終點在西非海岸取回的漁網所製作。

adidas集團負責全球品牌的執行董事會成員之一,Eric Liedtke對此次的合作表示:“我們非常高 興能夠加入Parley for the Oceans,因為他們促使聯合國關注海洋事業,而adidas一直是永續發展的領導者,這種夥伴關係使我們能夠進軍新的領域,為我們的運動員創造創新的材料和產品。我們邀請大家加入我們這個清理海洋的行動“。

Parley for the Oceans是一個環保組織,旨在提高人們對海洋情況的關注,並在保護和保存海洋的計畫項目上合作。adidas作為創始成員之一,一直在其教育和宣傳工作上支持Parley,Parley的「海洋塑膠清潔計劃(Ocean Plastic Program)」,計畫終結海洋塑料的污染。

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Adidas unveils sports shoes made from recycled ocean waste

Sportswear brand Adidas has launched a prototype shoe with an upper made entirely from yarns and filaments produced using plastic salvaged from the ocean.

British designer Alexander Taylor's running shoe for Adidas was unveiled during an event last week for Parley for the Oceans – an initiative that encourages creatives to repurpose ocean waste and raise awareness of the growing environmental issue.

Taylor constructed the Adidas x Parley shoes using the brand's existing footwear manufacturing process, but replaced the yarns with fibres made from waste plastic and fishing nets.

"This way there is no reason why materials with similar characteristics to those that we use every day with conventional production processes cannot be simply replaced by ocean plastic materials," Taylor told Dezeen.

"It is really much more a case of working with specialist 'green' chemists and companies such as Bionic textile to build new materials by re-constituting and re-engineering the nets and plastics."

The German sportswear brand plans to launch the concept design as part of a wider range of sportswear next year, but is currently looking into other sustainable ways of manufacturing the collection.

"It is important to understand that this is a concept shoe and it is currently utilising absolutely new materials and processes, which over the coming months will be worked on, refined and up-scaled into consumer product," said Taylor, who also designed the limited-edition AdiZero Primeknit trainers for Adidas in 2012.

"The shoes are manufactured using the very latest in automated textile technology and more will follow in the coming months around the new technology side of the project."

The nets that were used for the upper part of the Ultra-Boost-style shoe were retrieved by Parley for the Oceans partner organisation Sea Shepherd, during a 110-day expedition tracking an illegal poaching vessel off the coast of West Africa.

Adidas revealed the designs during a talk titled "Oceans. Climate. Life", hosted at the United Nations headquarters in New York.

The brand also announced its plans to raise awareness about the state of the seas with a sustainable collection made from the reclaimed waste, in further collaboration with Parley for the Oceans – a UN-backed scheme.

"Adidas has long been a leader in sustainability, but this partnership allows us to tap into new areas and create innovative materials and products for our athletes," Adidas executive board member Eric Liedtke said at the event.

The announcement follows Adidas' sustainability plan, which includes their recent decision to phase out plastic bags in all retail stores.

There is currently no fixed release date for the shoes, but Adidas has scheduled the launch for spring 2016.

Other companies involved in the Parley programme include Dutch fashion brand G-Star, which worked with musician Pharell Williams to launch a clothing range made entirely from waste ocean plastic.

A project that aims to clear the oceans of their plastic islands using floating barriers won the Digital category at the 2015 Design of the Year awards.

Music producer Will.i.am has also experimented with recycled plastic bottles and aluminium for a collection of products for Harrods that launched in March 2015.

Original Article: dezeen magazine

2015年7月17日

奢侈品是否該標示加工原產地?

奢侈品是否該標示加工原產地?


中國大陸作為世界上最大的奢侈品消費國,也是眾多品牌產品的重要加工國。面對國外奢侈品,人們購買時總會更留意產品的原產地,希望買到國外原汁原味的設計與生產。

然而Made in哪裡的標籤真的如此重要嗎?關於產品原產地標籤的問題,就重要性與可信度上進行分析瞭解。

其實許多國際知名品牌如Chanel、Dior、Dolce & Gabbana及Coach等,對產品的原產資訊介紹都很少,消費者也無法查詢到購買的產品是否來自於品牌創始國。有些品牌相對好一點,高階產品線會標示原產地,如Giorgio Armani的產品資訊中就有標注“Made in Italy”(義大利製造);但其副線或低階產品線就省略得多,如Armani Jeans的標籤就只有“進口”二字。同樣還有Burberry、Ralph Lauren等也多如此。

雖然大家都知道公開原產地能贏得消費者的信任與安全感,更能刺激消費,可真正這樣做的品牌還是不多。這與品牌標註產地的規則有關。

在歐洲,各國內部流通的產品若想標明原產地是很簡單的事情,規則與門檻也很低。因為歐盟對此沒有嚴格的要求,只要產品最後在哪個國家進行加工、品質控制與包裝行為就可貼上該國的產地標籤,即使中間耗時最長的誕生與製作過程在他國進行也沒關係。唯一例外的是瑞士,如果要貼上瑞士製造的標籤就嚴格很多。因此,對於歐洲人來說,這個標籤的可信度並不高,大家也就不那麼追求了。

而在國際市場上,產品的產地資訊還是被相當重視。其中,比起歐洲法國等地,“Made in Italy”(義大利製造)最受消費者歡迎。一般來說義大利品牌,尤其是高階產品的確都產於義大利,這是屬於他們的一種品牌定位。但是由於缺乏嚴謹的規則,不少品牌也想借由這個標籤獲得消費者的更多青睞。如Louis Vuitton雖然宣稱是“Made in Italy”,但只有在其部分網頁上才有較為籠統的介紹,實則該品牌手提包大都產自法國與西班牙。Prada過去似乎也在淡化其產自義大利的資訊,甚至曾將義大利製造的標籤改成Prada製造。早前還因被發現皮包於中國大陸等地進行加工生產而被詬病,最後將“Made in Italy”改成“Made by Italy”。

同樣引起爭議的還有最近據說興盛起來的“Made in U.S.A.”標籤。Natalie Chanin就是一位非常支持本土生產,鼓吹美國製造的設計師。她設計的服飾在網站上都有非常詳細的供應資訊,用的是德克薩斯州的有機棉,手工或機器裁縫在佛羅倫斯的成衣廠。然而唯獨有一個元素,其縫製的紗線在美國沒有生產,只能從土耳其進口。關於這一點,美國聯邦委員會認為服裝的重點在於設計,製作則是耗時最長的,而這些步驟都在美國進行,因此依然能被稱為“Made in U.S.A.”。

而皮包的規則更加嚴格,材質都不可忽視,如果原皮材料不是產於美國,僅在美國裁剪也不能稱為美國製造。而當下也有很多品牌想為美國增加曝光度,儘管一半的包材料可能來自於巴西,依然宣稱是美國本土製造的產品。對此,美國聯邦委員會表示,有關原產地規範,不能像歐盟睜一隻眼閉一隻眼,他們將與公司進行溝通,如若不糾正則會採取法律追究。

其實對原產地資訊持著模糊態度的做法如同廣告般,多少都會帶著迷惑與欺騙的成分,但也可以理解。如現在中國大陸市場對Coach與Tory Burch品牌擁有不少粉絲,若要完全追究其原產地,恐怕得貼上“Made in China”的標籤。屆時,熱愛奢侈品的中國大陸消費者,當發現原產地標示都在新興國家製造是否繼續有購買的衝動與慾望呢?

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【新聞來源:台灣紡拓會

2015年7月15日

C&A成衣榮獲「一致精準尺碼」標籤 | C&A Recognized For Outstanding "Fit" Consistency On Its Collections

C&A成衣榮獲「一致精準尺碼」標籤


零售商C&A致力改進成衣一致且精準合身的尺碼,其最新的女裝及牛仔裝因而榮獲特殊認證標籤。

這些標籤反映C&A經過10個月的全面修訂產品開發及策略配合的實務,在此期間,C&A修訂了流程和工具,符合當前的“最佳實踐範例”。

AlvaInside驗證(AlvaInside Certification),被認為是全球第一個也是唯一致力於成衣合身一致性的專業資格驗證,Alvanon專家授予C&A採購公司認證,建議、支持及審核C&A在成衣開發過程中致力於尺碼合身所做的努力。

AlvaInside標誌及“經Alvanon驗證一致精準合身”的訊息標籤將出現在C&A公司2015年秋冬的某些特定成衣中。

PD&D C&A採購女裝負責人Helen Walczak解釋:「在過去的一年中,我們已經配合我們的主要時裝、牛仔裝及內衣等產品,努力解決一致精準合身的挑戰」。

Alvanon公司總裁及C&A AlvaInside首席審核顧問Ed Gribbin補充:「C&A能在如此短的時間獲得驗證的確相當優秀」。

「C&A已經體認到,調整產品開發流程、在各個層面實施最佳做法和執行一致精準合身,是為了提高客戶滿意度及品牌忠誠度,進而推動銷售、成長及獲利能力」。

今(2015)年初,C&A採購公司技術服務部門主管Jackie Lewis談及零售商的工作,提供各個主要類別一致的合身性,例如內衣、褲子及牛仔裝作為先導,以建立市場占有率、銷售額、品牌的忠誠度及多管道推廣。

C&A歐洲是歐洲領先的流行成衣零售企業之一,在21個歐洲國家擁有超過1,575家店。C&A也分布在巴西、墨西哥和中國大陸等地。

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【新聞來源:台灣紡拓會


C&A Recognized For Outstanding "Fit" Consistency On Its Collections

NEW YORK — JUNE 30, 2015 — Alvanon, a leading global apparel business expert, has announced that C&A Buying GmbH & Co. has been awarded the highly respected AlvaInside Certification, the world’s first and only professional accreditation dedicated to apparel fit consistency. The AlvaInside Certification is awarded to C&A for its efforts to establish a more consistent fit for products across its size range.  As a result of the certification C&A is now using the AlvaInside logo and “Consistently Accurate Fit Certified by Alvanon” on specified garment labels in its newly launched Autumn/Winter 2015 ladieswear and denim ranges.

Developed by Alvanon’s strategic team of apparel consultants, AlvaInside is awarded to client companies who can demonstrate consistency in the execution and implementation of fit across the apparel development process.  Alvanon advised, supported and audited C&A’s product development and strategic fit practices over a ten month period during which the retailer revised its processes and tools in line with current best practice.

As Helen Walczak, head of ladieswear PD&D C&A Buying GmbH & Co. explained: “We are very pleased to have been awarded the AlvaInside fit certification. Over the past year we have tackled head-on the challenge of delivering consistent fit across our key fashion, denim and lingerie ranges.” Jackie Lewis, unit leader of technical services, C&A Buying GmbH added: “With Alvanon’s support we have worked tirelessly to understand our customer demographic and apply best practice and consistency to our product development practices and processes. Alvanon’s expertise and evaluation has been invaluable.”

Ed Gribbin, president, Alvanon Inc., and lead consultant on the C&A AlvaInside audit said: “What C&A has achieved in such a short space of time is outstanding. It has recognized that aligning product development processes, implementing best practice at every level and executing accurate, consistent fit is the way to increase customer satisfaction and brand loyalty thereby driving sales, growth and profitability.“ He concluded: “It is immensely difficult to achieve an AlvaInside certification and C&A is a very worthy recipient.”
Posted June 30, 2015

Source: Alvanon

2015年7月14日

Columbia研發OutDry防潑水技術 | Columbia develops OutDry waterproof technology

Columbia研發OutDry防潑水技術

美國戶外成衣及鞋類專業品牌Columbia Sportswear已開發出一種防雨夾克,於表層具有永久防水性和耐久性的防水膜。

OutDry極緻的雨衣技術,有著“超透氣”效果,防水薄膜上有極細微的孔洞讓濕氣透出,而雨水不易滲入。

內襯裡是排汗纖維,使透氣更進一步有著“貼著肌膚的舒適性”,而不是一個塑料貼著皮膚的感覺。Columbia表示,目前申請的專利技術是“在保持乾爽舒適上,一項巨大的跳躍式進步”。

「將耐磨薄膜置於表層與隨雨水接觸後,外套上”浸潤速度“幾乎沒有像其他人在DWR(耐久防水)消失後,那樣有的風險」,該公司解釋說。「“這是一個持久、永久性的積極消除濕氣和雨水的防水層。你可以想像是下了一場雨”」。

該公司表示,這件夾克開發和測試花了一年半的時間,並於全球147個人進行了測試。

運用該新技術產品將於明(2016)年春季販售,2016早春系列共19種款式可提供選擇,售價從150美元到400美元之間。

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【新聞來源:台灣紡拓會




Columbia develops OutDry waterproof technology

US outdoor apparel and footwear specialist Columbia Sportswear has developed a rainproof jacket that features the waterproof membrane on the outside for permanent water repellency and durability.

The OutDry Extreme rainwear technology, which will be available from next spring, is "ultra-breathable" as a result of microscopic perforations in the membrane that allows moisture to escape while keeping rain at bay.

The interior lining is a 'wicking textile' that enables further breathability and "next-to-skin comfort", rather than a plastic feel next to skin. Columbia says the patent-pending technology is "an enormous jump forward in keeping dry and comfortable".

"By putting an abrasion-resistant membrane on the outside where it's in contact with the rain, there is virtually no risk of the jacket "wetting out" like others do when their DWR (Durable Water Repellent) wears off." the company explained. "This is a durable, permanent waterproof layer that actively repels moisture and rain. Think of it like a forcefield to rain."

The jacket was in development and testing for over a year and a half, and was tested on 147 people globally, the company said.

The range will be available from early spring 2016 in a choice of 19 styles, priced from US$150 to $400.

Original Article: Just-Style

2015年7月10日

「現代蜘蛛人」- 研究團隊開發出人造蜘蛛絲 | 3D-printed webs

「現代蜘蛛人」- 研究團隊開發出人造蜘蛛絲

由多家機構與大學組成的研究團隊開發出人造蜘蛛絲,據悉是最強韌的天然材料之一。該研究團隊成員有:美國麻省波士頓大學、美國麻省理工學院、英國倫敦瑪麗王后學院、義大利特倫託大學,以及美國麻省塔夫斯大學。

人造纖維是從基因角度改變細菌以製造由蜘蛛所生產的蛋白質,具體來說,是疏水性與親水性的蛋白質混合物。疏水性與親水性的蛋白質混合在一起後溶解在水中。之後,透過定速的噴絲頭擠壓出絲以形成纖維。在擠壓成絲的過程中,蛋白質溶液中的分子排列成能形成強力結合的方式。反過來說,生產出極強韌的纖維。

目前研究團隊所開發出的纖維並不如天然蜘蛛絲那樣強韌,但是,現在已經建立好製造程序,研究員們有望能調整材料並提升纖維的強度。

該種纖維是用於數個終端應用。尤其是因為蜘蛛絲是生物相容性材料,所以有人提出,該種纖維或許能適用於生物醫學應用上。

研究成果一公布,研究員之一的Shangchao Lin表示:「我們的目標是要藉著大自然的好想法,來提升人造纖維的強度、彈性與堅韌度」。

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新3D列印技術能「印出」服裝 | 3D Printing Clothing

【新聞來源:台灣紡拓會


3D-printed webs


(Nanowerk News) Spider silk has long been noted for its graceful structure, as well as its advanced material properties: Ounce for ounce, it is stronger than steel.

MIT research has explained some of the material’s mysteries, which could help design synthetic resources that mimic the extraordinary properties of natural silk. Now, scientists at MIT have developed a systematic approach to research its structure, blending computational modeling and mechanical analysis to 3D-print synthetic spider webs. These models offer insight into how spiders optimize their own webs.

“This is the first methodical exploration of its kind,” says Professor Markus Buehler, head of MIT’s Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering (CEE), and the lead author of a paper appearing this week in Nature Communications ("Predictive Modelling-Based Design for Synthesis and Spinning of Bioinspired Silk Fibres"). “We are looking to expand our knowledge of the function of natural webs in a systematic and repeatable manner.”

Coupling multiscale modeling with emerging microscale 3D-printing techniques, the team enabled a pathway to directly fabricate and test synthetic web structures by design. The lessons learned through this approach may help harness spider silk’s strength for other uses, and ultimately inspire engineers to digitally design new structures and composites that are reliable and damage-resistant.

The paper was written by Buehler, along with CEE research scientist Zhao Qin, Harvard University professor Jennifer Lewis, and former Harvard postdoc Brett Compton.

Further unraveling the mysteries of spider silk

The study unearths a significant relationship between spider web structure, loading points, and failure mechanisms. By adjusting the material distribution throughout an entire web, a spider is able to optimize the web’s strength for its anticipated prey.

The team, adopting an experimental setup, used metal structures to 3D-print synthetic webs, and directly integrate their data into models. “Ultimately we merged the physical with the computational in our experiments,” Buehler says.

According to Buehler, spider webs employ a limited amount of material to capture prey of different sizes. He and his colleagues hope to use this work to design real-world, damage-resistant materials of lower density.

The 3D-printed models, Lewis says, open the door to studying the effects of web architecture on strength and damage tolerance — a feat that would have been impossible to achieve using only natural spider webs.

“Spider silk is an impressive and fascinating material,” she says. “But before now, the role of the web architecture had not yet been fully explored.” To investigate the geometric aspects of spider webs through the use of a similar material to silk that can be 3D-printed with uniform mechanical properties was Lewis’ mission.

Buehler’s team used orb-weaver spider webs as the inspiration for their 3-D designs. In each of their samples, they controlled the diameter of the thread as a method of comparing homogeneous and heterogeneous thread thickness.

In simulation, the team created “the ideal environment to test and optimize the web structures” under different loading conditions, and then use synthetic materials to print identical webs, Qin says. “We are on the way to quantifying the mechanism that makes the spider’s web so strong,” he says.
The work revealed that spider webs consisting of uniform thread diameters are better suited to bear force applied at a single point, such as the impact coming from flies hitting webs; a nonuniform diameter can withstand more widespread pressure, such as from wind, rain, or gravity.
The combination of computational modeling and 3D-printing makes it possible to test and optimize designs efficiently.

“This work is an excellent demonstration of how we can exploit designs in nature in the development of novel materials and structures.” says Sandra Shefelbine, an associate professor of mechanical and industrial engineering at Northeastern University not involved in this work.
Marc Meyers, a professor of mechanical and aerospace engineering at the University of California at San Diego, adds: “Biological materials and structures are the new frontier of engineering. This most recent significant contribution by Markus Buehler and colleagues goes beyond the first stage, which is to understand nature, and make significant inroads into creating a bioinspired structure.”

Lewis says that the team now plans to examine the dynamic aspects of webs through controlled impact and vibration experiments. This, she says, will change the printed material’s properties in real time, opening the door to printing optimized, multifunctional structures.

Source: By Kelsey Damrad, MIT

Original Ariticl: nanowerk

2015年7月9日

臺美產業合作成功案例:美國運動服飾品牌的最佳夥伴在臺灣

臺美產業合作成功案例:美國運動服飾品牌的最佳夥伴在臺灣

UNDER ARMOUR與臺灣

今年初運動服飾市場最重大的消息,無非是成立僅18年的美國品牌UNDER ARMOUR,打敗歷史悠久的歐洲品牌adidas,成為美國第二大運動服飾品牌。這個發展看似與臺灣關聯不大,但在此同時,臺灣多家紡織廠被稱為「UNDER ARMOUR概念股」,受到市場追捧,股價水漲船高。這個現象揭露了臺美在運動機能服飾產業的緊密關係。
10件美國瑜珈服中,8件使用臺灣布料

近年來美國運動服飾新加入機能(Function)與時尚(Fashion)元素,使運動服飾打入美國人的日常穿著。美國運動服飾品牌包括NIKE、UNDER ARMOUR、THE NORTH FACE、Columbia、patagonia等,之所以能成功帶領風潮,背後都有臺灣紡織業的強力奧援。

臺灣紡織業研發能量強大,有能力以各種環保材質製成高機能布料,如咖啡紗、保特瓶回收作成吸濕排汗布料,且生產模式具彈性,能與美國大廠高度配合。臺美企業夥伴關係深厚,美國的每10件瑜珈服中,就有8件使用臺灣布料,如瑜珈服領導品牌lululemon與儒鴻公司及信源公司的供應鏈合作。除此之外,還有許多精彩故事:

1. 宏遠興業研發5丹尼尼龍紗,以製成全世界最輕布料聞名,材質之輕被稱為「國王的新衣」。這家廠商成功為THE NORTH FACE開發出「Windwall」防風刷毛布料,並成為THE NORTH FACE最大供應商。

2. 旭榮集團長期為美國PVH集團(全球最大休閒服飾集團,旗下有Calvin Klein與Tommy Hilfiger等品牌)供應商。旭榮為客戶提供流行趨勢資訊,不僅供應布料,更為合作對象提供客製know-how服務。

夥伴角色不僅止於供應商

除了客戶與供應商的夥伴關係,臺美廠商雙方更在創新與設計上合作,例如美商3M與臺灣廠商宏遠興業及遠東新世紀公司共同開發快速排汗的「撥水紗」技術及快速導濕速乾布料,生產過程節能環保,且能符合業界水洗標準,遠優於一般機能性紡織品。此外,美國運動服飾品牌在臺灣廣受歡迎,例如2013年5月首度進軍臺灣市場的UNDER ARMOUR,在短短兩年間,已經拓展16家直營店,及約150家經銷商。對美商而言,臺灣是供應商,是技術合作對象,也是重要市場,展現臺灣在美國運動服飾產業的多重夥伴角色。

【資料來源:經濟部國際貿易局】

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2015年7月8日

2015年ISPO上海展圓滿落幕 | Thank you ISPO Shanghai 2015

ACOTEX 2015 ISPO Shanghai

感謝來自世界各地夥伴們的支持參與,2015年ISPO上海展圓滿落幕!!

Huge thanks to all of our partners and friends who have supported and participated in our 2015 ISPO Shanghai Show. We'll see you all very soon!

2015年7月7日

全球服裝品牌價值排名榜公佈,UNIQLO高於adidas

全球服裝品牌價值排名榜公佈,UNIQLO高於adidas


英國廣告巨擎WWP公司每年都會發佈一次全球品牌價值排名。今(2015)年全球服裝品牌的結果已公佈,UNIQLO的品牌價值排名竟高於adidas和Ralph Lauren。

日本“ZUU Online”近日的報導中提到,今(2015)年品牌價值的計算和排名全部交由英國調查諮詢公司Millward Brown。標出的金額即品牌價值的金額,是通過各企業公佈的財務報告、對品牌消費者做提問調查等得出的結果。以下列出服裝品牌的前10名。

第10名:TOMMY HILFIGER,25.8億美元,同比+29%
     美國休閒服品牌TOMMY HILFIGER在全球90多個國家擁有超過1,400家的店鋪。隨著Preppy Style的流行,品牌銷售額也跟著增長。(Preppy Style以美國常春藤名校校園服裝為代表,低調卻又追求高品質。)近幾年為了強化中國大陸市場,品牌在30周年之際,預定在北京新開店鋪以作紀念。另外,從今年秋天開始還將起用職業網球選手拉菲爾·納達爾(Rafael Nadal)作為品牌形象大使。

第9名:Lululemon,28.98億美元,同比-11%
     1998年創立於加拿大溫哥華的瑜伽服裝品牌Lululemon,在世界的瑜伽熱潮中急速成長起來。在加拿大、美國、澳大利亞等國家,其人氣大到說瑜伽服裝就會自然地與Lululemon連結起來。2013年由於出現布料召回等問題,在銷售額和信賴度上一度有所下滑,但在世界健康熱潮中又有逐漸恢復的趨勢。

第8名:Hugo Boss,43.2億美元,同比-5%
    德國奢侈男裝品牌。在歐洲、亞洲均屬高價商品因此銷售額並無太大變化,又受到俄羅斯經濟危機影響導致銷量減少。去年,在中國大陸的店鋪全部替換成直營店,目標在於進一步提升品牌形象。

第7名:adidas,46.15億美元,同比-36%
    德國體育用品品牌。雖然贊助了2014年世界盃取得了不錯的效果,但是俄羅斯經濟不景氣和高爾夫部門銷售額下跌對整體的影響巨大。不過adidas在電子商務方面卻有驚人的成長率。中期經營計畫是到2020年為止,銷售額達到145億~205億歐元。

第6名:Ralph Lauren,56.43億美元。同比-11%
     作為美國的代表性品牌,Ralph Lauren由於競爭對手的降價,不僅影響到直營店的銷售額,連收益和股價也下跌。品牌和統一形象的傳遞,Ralph Lauren今後的戰略需要強調世界觀的一貫性。

第5名:NEXT,59.73億美元,同比+5%
    創立於英國的休閒服品牌,在日本雖然知名度不高,但NEXT在全球的銷售額是高居上位的服裝大品牌。目前在英國擁有500家店鋪,其他40多個國家擁有200多家店鋪。

第4名:UNIQLO,80億7400萬美元,同比+11%
    UNIQLO在去年品牌價值已有大幅度提升,今年更是一躍到第4位。2014年進軍德國市場,而在中國大陸、香港和臺灣地區的店鋪數也持續增長。UNIQLO欲將創新技術和時尚融合,並結合當地市場趨勢,開發更多時尚與功能兼具的商品。

第3名:H&M,138.27億美元,同比-11%
    瑞典知名快速時尚品牌。2014年以美國和中國大陸為中心,共新開了379家店鋪,目前在55個國家有3,000家以上的店鋪。今年秋天開始,H&M Beauty還將正式進入美容化妝品領域。

第2名:ZARA,220.36億美元,同比-5%
    1975年誕生的西班牙服裝品牌ZARA勢不可擋。雖然與UNIQLO同樣是快速時尚品牌,從Inditex集團整體上看,在全球的銷售額實際上是UNIQLO的幾倍。品牌擁有眾多設計師,控制生產的數量以適應商品快速更替的戰略,另外ZARA最近也開始強化電子商務領域。

第1名:NIKE,297.17億美元,同比+21%
     NIKE延續去年成績今年依然奪冠。憑藉贊助索契冬奧會、超級杯等大型體育賽事,NIKE的業績狀態絕佳。特別是2014年度的電子商務銷售額更是成長了42%。連同旗下子公司在內,全部的銷售額達到近3兆日元。

以上排名前幾名的品牌基本上無太大變化,快速時尚品牌多數上榜,另外隨著網路的普及,精明的消費者們對於價格和品質的要求更是年年攀高,各品牌無疑都面臨著嚴峻的競爭考驗。而品牌發展今後的關鍵,還在以新興國家為中心,開展全球化戰略和電子商務業務。
 
【資料來源: 中國紡織經濟信息網】

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2015年7月1日

Gap關閉175家分店,力拼轉型 | Gap closing 175 stores to be more 'vibrant'

Gap關閉175家分店,力拼轉型


全美最大服裝連鎖集團Gap宣布,未來幾年內將關閉北美地區175間同名品牌分店,今(2015)年將裁減總部250個職位。該公司先前已透露有意轉型,發展品牌電子商務,建立行動商務銷售通道,以改善實體店面銷售疲弱的問題。

該公司表示,今年有140間Gap同名品牌分店關閉,不涉及Gap Outlet。至於其他子品牌Banana Republic、Old Navy、Intermix及Athleta也不受影響。未來北美地區將剩下800間Gap品牌分店。

同時,部分歐洲分店也將關閉。Gap在全球50個國家有1,600間分店與特許經營店。近幾年Gap面臨嚴峻的業績挑戰,今年第一季銷售同期比下滑10%,子品牌Piperlime也在最近歇業。

新任執行長佩克(Art Peck)日前表示,未來Gap將進入3.0零售模式,重點發展品牌電子商務、行動商務銷售通道。一旦具體的策略實施,將「不可避免」地關閉或者縮小一部分店面。

Gap主要針對舊金山總部進行裁員。截至今(2015)年1月,Gap在全球約有14萬1,000名員工。這項重整計畫將耗資1億5,000萬美元。

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【新聞來源:台灣紡拓會



Gap closing 175 stores to be more 'vibrant'


Gap announced Monday it will close a quarter of its stores and cut 250 corporate jobs as it tries to chart the clothing brand back toward growth.

The company will close 175 stores across North America, not including outlets or factory stores, based on store performance. There will be additional store closures at European locations. About 140 stores will close this year. Gap will continue to operate about 500 Gap stores, plus 300 outlet stores.

Gap has been struggling to entice customers amid competition from fast fashion brands. Same-store sales fell 10% in the first quarter, compared with a 5% drop in the year-ago quarter.

"We're focused on offering consistent, on-brand product collections and enhancing the customer experience across all of our channels, including a smaller, more vibrant fleet of stores," said Jeff Kirwan, global president for Gap, in a statement.

The store closures are part of a larger trend by mall-based brands to reduce store locations, says Simeon Siegel, retail equity analyst at Nomura. Macy's, J.C. Penney, Deb Shops, RadioShack, Sears and Wet Seal are all among brands that have or are planning to close stores.

"It's more a continuation of what's already been going on," Siegel says. "Your biggest competitor used to be your neighbor in the mall. Right now your biggest competitor is the infinite number of random start-up websites. You just don't need as many bricks and mortar locations."

Gap declined to say how many employees will be affected by the store closures. Spokesman Sean Piazza says the company is still defining which locations will close. Piazza also declined to say how many people work at the company's corporate offices, where 250 jobs will be cut, primarily in New York and San Francisco.

The corporate cuts are about increasing productivity and efficiency in decision making, Piazza says.

"This came out of an evaluation of the business," he says. "It allows the brand to focus on key store locations, drive productivity and also speed within our headquarters locations."

Gap expects to lose about $300 million in sales due to the store closures and incur one-time costs of $140 million to $160 million on things like lease buyouts and writing off inventory.

Gap stores have experienced slumping sales in the past year as fashions have failed to drive traffic. Creative director Rebekka Bay was let go in January, and the company eliminated her position, instead relying on a senior design team.

"Right now they're basically like a ship without a captain," says Jessica Bornn, a senior analyst with retail research firm Merchant Forecast. "There's no major creative design force behind the collection. They haven't interpreted any of the trends of the season."

Bornn views the store closures as a positive for the brand, which she says has too many locations in underperforming malls.

"The number of stores a retailer should have today as a mature chain has changed," she says. "Maybe by increasing the scarcity, that can start to improve and drive traffic to the stores."

Original Article: USA Today