2016年6月25日

Lululemon創辦人稱公司已失去方向 | Is Chip Wilson Right That Lululemon Has 'Lost Its Way'?

Lululemon創辦人稱公司已失去方向


瑜珈服飾品牌Lululemon Athletica的創辦人於本(2016)年6月1日發表一封致股東的公開信,信中指出公司現在已經“失去方向”,必須即刻採取行動作出改革。

持有該公司14.2%的股權,仍然是公司最大股東的Chip Wilson表示,運動用品巨擘Nike與機能性鞋類及服飾品牌Under Armour正搶佔Lululemon的市占率。渠在信中提及,「我們不能坐視我們開拓的市場持續被競爭對手蠶食」。

Wilson認為,公司沒有正確的領導,「以促進必要的調整,讓公司在當前全球多元化通路及激烈與快速變動的環境中致勝」。

渠表示:「本人強烈感覺到公司當前的董事會和管理團隊必須清晰闡述,並執行一個能讓公司重拾競爭優勢和獲利成長的策略」。

Wilson稱,渠曾向董事會請求給予在公司股東年度大會上發言的機會,但董事會駁回了他的請求。

Wilson在公開信中呼籲董事會不再分級,讓所有股東每年重選董事。渠在信中指出,目前的董事會和其管理階層在三年內並沒有創造股東價值,「其經營管理的能力最多只是平庸」。

Lululemon在截至本年1月31日的第四季(13個星期)淨利潤達1.174億美元,較前一年度同期的1.109億美元成長5.9%。

Chip Wilson於1998年創辦該公司,去(2015)年2月退出Lululemon的董事會。


新聞來源:台灣紡拓會

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Is Chip Wilson Right That Lululemon Has 'Lost Its Way'?


Despite positive analyst coverage and first-quarter earnings roughly in line with expectations, Lululemon (LULU) founder Chip Wilson believes the company has "lost its way."

Wilson, who with a 14% stake is Lululemon's largest shareholder, wrote in a June 1 open letter that the company "created the global athleisure market," but has started to "cede the market opportunity we created to Under Armour (UA) and Nike (NKE) ." Since December 2013, he noted, Under Armour shares have increased 79%, Nike shares 45% and the S&P 500 16%, while Lululemon shares have fallen 8%.

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Lululemon reported its first-quarter earnings on June 8. Revenue rose 17% year-over-year to $495 million, beating consensus estimates of $487 million. However, earnings per share of 30 cents missed the forecast 31 cents and represented a 12% drop.

Despite that performance, Wilson is overly hard on the company he founded, according to Jim Cramer, TheStreet's founder and manager of the Action Alerts PLUS portfolio.

"I've been very critical of Lululemon for a long time even though I'd set a low bar for it," he said. "But the bar got higher and higher under this new regime."

Although Lululemon missed earnings per share numbers and sales growth fell slightly, "the company literally had the best apparel numbers of anybody, including Nike and Under Armour," Cramer noted. "I'm saying it's a work in progress that's getting better. [Wilson is] saying ignore whatever's happening, it's not as good."

Original Article: TheStreet

2016年6月2日

Yeh Group正支持進行“革命性”的3D列印時尚計畫 | Yeh Group backs "revolutionary" 3D printed fashion project

Yeh Group正支持進行“革命性”的3D列印時尚計畫


全球紡織及成衣製造企業Yeh Group正在與英國大學聯手開發“真正可穿戴的”3D列印時尚和鞋類的計畫。

根據在英國Loughborough大學的研究人員表示,該計畫將在當地展開,可預期在24小時內完成製造品項,“可以徹底改變衣服和鞋類製造的過程”,具有里程碑的意義。

這個被稱為3D 時尚的計畫(為期18個月),是由產品與工業設計資深講師Guy Bingham博士所帶領,目標是搭配主流時尚公司的趨勢,以一站式的創新生產工法,製造彩色及高完成度、全尺寸可穿戴式的成衣及鞋類。

Yeh Group總部設在泰國而在東南亞經營業務,是一家在運動、戶外及內衣產品領域具垂直創新能力的供應商,將幫助這項技術商業化。該公司生產運動用、戶外用及內衣用布料與成衣,以DryDye技術為其客戶如adidas等,生產無水染色機能性布料著名。

“3D Fashion將為成衣和鞋類生產帶來革命性新方法。人們說這是不可能的,但我們將會是第一個投入此領域的企業。它將會支持Yeh Group從聚合物到成衣製造的願景。”,Tony Shiang公司總經理David Yeh表示。

紡織品3D列印又被稱作”成型製造(AM)”,它並非新技術,但現屬於多階段製程處理,需要成衣後整理加工。另一個困難是,因3D列印的產品偏硬,具雕塑的結構,所以它最大的挑戰之一,就是讓成衣具有垂墜性、舒適及耐磨。

然而,Loughborough大學表示,這項創新的技術將會透過一個單一的製造流程,直接從原料像是聚合物到成品生產完整、可直接穿著的成衣。

該項創新技術還具有巨大的潛力,不僅可以減少浪費、勞動力成本和二氧化碳排放量,同時也鼓勵當地成衣生產技術邁向現代化。

“透過3D列印,你想創造甚麼產品幾乎是沒有限制的,正是因為這種設計自由度,給生活帶來更多的驚喜,以前覺得不可能達到的,現在都能夠實現。”,Bingham 博士表示。

“這是一個技術創新的里程碑,使我們的設計人員能以更快的速度創新,在數位化世界中創造個性化,沒有幾何約束和幾乎為零廢料的成衣時尚。我們預期,隨著技術的進一步發展,我們可以在24小時內以3D列印成衣服裝”。

“使用成型製造(AM)技術列印新成衣,透過網路零售,將數位生產開放給普羅大眾,將更新19世紀以來的工藝與生產過程,對全球時尚產業帶來革命性的影響。這種現代的成衣生產方式有助於滿足個性化成衣和鞋類不斷成長的需求,透過3D列印技術可以永續和符合社會道德的方式生產“。

根據英國 WRAP(廢棄物及資源行動計劃)統計,目前,成衣製造所產生的廢料每年約為180萬噸 – 相當於每個英國家庭中有70公斤或是100件牛仔褲,同時在生產過程中消耗了63億立方米的水。相當於英國每年每戶200,000公升或是1,000個浴缸的用水量。

“Yeh Group一直在不犧牲產品性能的前提下,努力削減了不必要的浪費和節省資源的使用,並將產業目標快速地推向市場,創造新的製造技術,使品牌和零售商可以更貼近客戶的需求。”, David Yeh補充說明。

另一所英國Hertfordshire大學聲稱研發出更接近傳統布料的材質,對成衣技術和3D列印有“巨大突破”。

新聞來源:台灣紡拓會

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Yeh Group backs "revolutionary" 3D printed fashion project



Global textile and garment manufacturer Yeh Group is joining forces with a British university on a project to develop "truly wearable" 3D printed fashion and footwear.

The landmark project, which would see items manufactured within 24 hours, "could revolutionise how clothes and footwear are made," according to the researchers at Loughborough University, where the work will be carried out.

The 18-month project, known as 3D Fashion, is being led by Dr Guy Bingham, senior lecturer in product and industrial design, with the aim of producing full size, 3D wearable garments and footwear that are coloured and finished in an innovative one-step manufacturing process – with design input from a major fashion house.

The Yeh Group, an innovative vertical sports, outdoor and intimates supplier headquartered in Thailand and with operations in South East Asia, will help commercialise the technology. The group makes sports, outdoor and intimate apparel fabrics and garments, and is perhaps best-known for its DryDye branded performance fabric produced using a waterless dyeing process for customers such as Adidas.

"3D Fashion is going to bring a new revolutionary way of producing apparel and footwear. People say it is not possible, but we are going to be the first to jump on it," explains David Yeh, managing director, Tong Siang (Yeh Group). He adds: [It] "supports the Yeh Group vision of direct polymer to garment manufacture."

3D printing of textiles – also known as additive manufacturing (AM) – is not new, but current processes are multi-stage and require garment finishing. Another issue is that 3D 'prints' tend to be hard, sculptural structures – and one of the biggest challenges has been making garments with drape, and that are comfortable and wearable.

However, Loughborough University says its innovative technology will produce finished, ready-to-wear net-shaped garments directly from raw material, such as polymer, in a single manufacturing operation.

The technology also has tremendous potential to not only reduce waste, labour costs and CO2 emissions, but also to modernise clothing production by encouraging localised manufacturing and production.

"With 3D printing there is no limit to what you can build and it is this design freedom which makes the technology so exciting by bringing to life what was previously considered to be impossible," explains Dr Bingham.

"This landmark technology allows us as designers to innovate faster and create personalised, ready-to-wear fashion in a digital world with no geometrical constraints and almost zero waste material. We envisage that with further development of the technology, we could 3D print a garment within 24 hours.

"Printing clothes using AM will revolutionise the fashion industry worldwide by opening up digital manufacturing to the masses via online retail, bringing a much needed update to 19th century techniques and processes. This modern approach to clothing production helps meet the growing demand for personalised apparel and footwear which through 3D printing can be produced in a sustainable and ethical way."

Currently, garment manufacture generates 1.8m tonnes of waste material – equivalent to 70kg or 100 pairs of jeans per UK household, with 6.3bn cubic metres of water used in the process – equivalent to 200,000 litres per year per household or 1,000 filled bathtubs, according to WRAP, the UK's Waste and Resources Action Programme.

"The Yeh Group is always striving to cut out unnecessary waste and resource use, and support the industries goals of faster to market, creating a manufacturing technology that brands and retailers can install closer to their customers. This is all with no compromise to performance," David Yeh adds.

As was recently reported on just-style, another UK project at the University of Hertfordshire is claiming a "huge breakthrough" for garment technology and 3D printing by producing materials that are flexible and more closely mimic traditional fabrics.

Original Article: just-style