2014年8月28日

健身房外的運動服飾熱潮 | Yoga Poseurs: Athletic Apparel Moves Out of the Gym to Every Day

巨石強森在電影「玩命關頭6 (fast and furious 6)」中的運動裝扮,帶領全世界掀起了一股運動服飾穿著熱潮

健身房外興起的運動服飾熱潮

如果只要買件衣服就能讓自己顯得熱愛運動,幹嗎還真的去健身呢?

在美國,多數體育項目的參與率正在下降,同時美國運動服飾零售市場的增長率卻大幅上升。

服飾業因此出現了一個被稱為“運動休閑”(athleisure)的類別。越來越多的美國人開始在會議室穿著運動鞋,有些人還穿著瑜伽褲去吃早午餐,“運動休閑”服飾因此成為一個業已陷入疲軟的市場中的亮點。

根據巴克萊(Barclays)的分析師估計,到2020年,美國運動服飾市場將增長近50%,市值將超過1,000億美元。這主要是受到那些穿著彈力十足的T恤和緊身褲卻從來沒去過健身房的消費者推動。

舉例來說,瑜伽裝備的需求增長速度正在超過該項運動本身的增長速度。體育與健康行業協會(Sports & Fitness Industry Association)的數據顯示,2013年瑜伽的參與率上升了4.5%。

體育商品行業追蹤機構SportsOneSource的分析師鮑威爾(Matt Powell)稱,與此同時,瑜伽服飾的銷售額卻大幅增長了45%。

Yoga Mandali的老板斯科爾(Karen Score)表示,大家都穿著瑜伽褲,甚至那些不練瑜伽的人也在穿。Yoga Mandali是紐約薩拉托加斯普林斯一家獨立的瑜伽商店。

這一潮流不僅限于瑜伽。本月早些時候,一個傳統的戶外露營零售商展銷會的組織者為“千禧一代”舉辦了一個所謂都市裝的新展覽,這些并不真正打算遠足的千禧一代在展覽上穿著靴子和法蘭絨衣服示人。

零售商為男士們推出了新式的慢跑長褲,這種運動式長褲在腳踝處有彈性褲腳。SportsOneSource的鮑威爾表示,在本周拉斯維加斯服裝展會上,這一直是討論的主題。

Sports & Fitness Industry Association對六大門類運動的參與率進行了追蹤。過去五年中,單項、球類和團體運動的參與率有所下降,戶外運動、水中運動和健身的參與率持平。

據巴克萊(Barclays)分析師表示,美國健身服的市場規模平均每年增長5%,從大約540億美元增長至680億美元。

高端市場甚至也注意到了這些變化。在線奢侈服飾零售商Net-a-Porter 7月份推出了最新運動系列Net-a-Sporter。

奢侈品牌迪奧(Christian Dior)在秋季成品系列中推出了運動款式的單鞋。亮面橡膠尖頭鞋面配以帶有跑鞋元素的橡膠鞋底。高跟款可在迪奧門店預定,起價為1,450美元。

新聞來源: 華爾街日報

巨石強森在電影「玩命關頭6 (fast and furious 6)」中的運動裝扮,帶領全世界掀起了一股運動服飾穿著熱潮


Yoga Poseurs: Athletic Apparel Moves Out of the Gym to Every Day

Why work out when you can just buy the clothes and look like you did? 

The rate of growth in the U.S. retail athletic apparel market is surging, even as Americans' rate of participating in most sports is in decline. 

The result is a phenomenon the apparel industry calls 'athleisure'--a bright spot in a sluggish business thanks to Americans who are increasingly donning sneakers in the boardroom and yoga pants at brunch. Analysts at Barclays estimate the U.S. athletic apparel market will increase by nearly 50% to more than $100 billion at retail by 2020, driven in large part by consumers snapping up stretchy tees and leggings that will never see the fluorescent lights of a gym. 

Demand for yoga gear, for example, is outpacing growth of the sport itself. Yoga participation grew 4.5% in 2013, according to the Sports & Fitness Industry Association. Meanwhile, sales of yoga apparel were up 45%, according to Matt Powell, an analyst for SportsOneSource, a sporting-goods industry tracker. 

'Everyone is wearing yoga pants, even people who aren't doing it,' said Karen Score, the owner of Yoga Mandali, an independent yoga store in Saratoga Springs, N.Y. 

Ms. Score, who also runs an adjoining yoga studio, is drawing up brochures for fall classes with the tag line: 'Do you wear yoga pants? Why not try yoga?' 

Lauren Wheeler-Woodburn estimates that she owns at least 25 pairs of yoga pants. As a graduate student at the University of Southern California and social-media strategist, she says she wears them mostly every day, for class or to work, or just sitting at home lounging. 

'I sound like the yoga pants version of a crazy cat lady,' said Ms. Wheeler-Woodburn, who prefers Lululemon but dons other brands too. 

The 25-year-old isn't a diligent yogi, though she practices at home sometimes. For her, the clothing isn't an athletic utility but a wardrobe staple. Yoga pants, she said, are easy to clean, don't need to be ironed and, at $90 a pop at Lululemon, are cheaper and more versatile than even her favorite jeans, for which she pays upward of $200 a pair at Nordstrom. 

The trend isn't limited to yoga. Organizers of a trade show for traditional outdoor and camping retailers earlier this month debuted a new exhibit devoted to so-called urban wear for 'millennials' who wear their boots and flannels with no intention of actually hiking. 

For men, retailers are rolling out new versions of jogger pants--sweatpant-like trousers with elastic cuffs at the ankles. Mr. Powell, of SportsOneSource, said they have been a main topic of discussion at apparel trade shows in Las Vegas this week. 

Tracksmith, an online apparel boutique, made its debut in July offering preppy, $90 men's running shorts. Not long afterward, a parody site called Running Team JVA mocked Tracksmith's marketing. 'Running is free. But it shouldn't be,' the site reads. 

Matt Taylor, a co-founder of Tracksmith, which sold out its first shipment of inventory, said he thought the site was 'pretty clever.' 

Betabrand, a San Francisco-based apparel startup that crowdsources ideas for items and crowdfunds the production, said the debut of its chino-styled dress pant yoga pants earlier this year was so successful the company has put ideas for other projects on hold to focus on the athletic apparel business, particularly for women. 

The Sports & Fitness Industry Association tracks participation rates across six categories. Over the past five years, participation in individual, racket and team sports fell, and was flat for outdoor, water and fitness sports. Meanwhile, the size of the U.S. market for workout clothes grew by 5% a year on average, from roughly $54 billion to $68 billion, according to analysts at Barclays. 

Athletic apparel manufacturers and retailers are reaping the benefits. Under Armour Inc., once known largely for its compression gear worn by football players, expects its annual revenue to surge 29% this year to $2.91 billion, fueled by its expansion into women's wear, youth apparel and footwear. 

Consumers 'have and will continue to want versatility, to look great everywhere, in the gym, on the street, in class,' said Henry Stafford, president of Under Armour North America. 

Dick's Sporting Goods Inc., reeling from downturns in both the golf and hunting categories, said this week it is looking to grow its other businesses, and has already begun allocating more store space to sports apparel, particularly for women and children in time for back-to-school shopping. Bon-Ton Stores Inc. in May said it would 'outsize the active athleisure category across all zones.' Kohl's Corp. will begin selling flashy sweatpants by Juicy Couture in the fall as a means 'to capture more of the athleisure market.' 

In March, Andy Mooney, chief executive of surf and snowboard apparel maker Quiksilver Inc., said the company was de-emphasizing the core adventure-sports community and 'going back to what we did when we first started, which is, we were both functional and fashionable at the same time.' 

The changes are even being noted in high-end markets. Online luxury apparel retailer Net-a-Porter in July unveiled a channel devoted exclusively to high-fashion athletic looks, named Net-a-Sporter. 

Luxury brand Christian Dior unveiled some sneaker-inspired pumps for its fall ready-to-wear line. A glazed rubber pointy-toed upper is paired with a rubber sole inspired by running shoes. The heels are available for preorder in Dior stores starting at $1,450. 

The athletic apparel market isn't without its challenges. Lululemon Athletica Inc., which has been wrestling for a year-and-a-half with supply chain and quality issues, cut its outlook for the year as it works to clear excess inventory. 

Alexandra Medina, of Costa Mesa, Calif., likes to wear yoga pants around town, which is standard fare in her community. She said she likes to work out, but can't always find the time in days that are consumed with running her flooring company and chasing her 19-month-old daughter. Wearing the pants can bring a twinge of guilt. 

'When you put on your workout apparel,' she said, 'you think, 'Huh, maybe I should think about working out today.' ' 
Source: The Wall Street Journal

2014年8月26日

讀取你的身體資料!世界名牌Ralph Lauren Polo推智慧穿戴科技服飾 | Ralph Lauren Polo Tech shirt reads wearer's biological and physiological info


智慧穿戴 名牌壓縮衣吸睛


美聯社報導,穿戴式裝置風氣正盛,吸引越來越多時尚品牌和科技業合作開發健身科技服飾與配件,例如Ralph Lauren即將推出的智慧型壓縮衣,以及惠普與美式學院風設計師麥可‧巴斯提安(Michael Bastian)共同設計的智慧型手錶。

早在今年1月消費電子大展(CES)時,英特爾業務開發副總裁伊爾丹尼斯(Ayse Ildeniz)就曾將時尚界喻為穿戴式科技的「領航員」。果不其然,近日各大時尚品牌已醞釀推出相關產品。

Ralph Lauren周一在美國網球公開賽開場時,發表公司最新研發的高性能智慧型壓縮衣Polo Tech,預計明年春季開賣。

這款壓縮衣將感應器織入布料,能在運動員穿上後追蹤心跳、呼吸及壓力指數等資料,同時也能感應動態與移動方向。壓縮衣還能將收集到的生理數據傳送到雲端,讓使用者透過平板電腦或智慧型手機上網管理。

惠普聯手巴斯提安及線上零售商Gilt共同開發的高設計感智慧型手錶也將在今年秋季上市,號稱支援Android及iOS系統,能發出郵件、簡訊及來電提示。紐約時尚品牌Tory Burch也和運動手環開發商Fitbit合作,開發健身品牌Flex專屬黃銅墜飾與手鍊。

伊爾丹尼斯也在1月CES展表示,英特爾已和紐約時尚品牌Opening Ceremony、美國時尚設計師協會,以及高級百貨公司Barneys展開合作,而他們即將推出的首款產品是奢華智慧型手鍊,將由Barneys銷售。

Opening Ceremony創辦人里昂(Humberto Leon)表示:「這次合作打破穿戴式科技原有的框

架,成功結合時尚與科技。」

研究機構NPD調查顯示,數位健身裝置具備3.3億美元以上的商機,客群涵蓋專業運動員及一般使用者。該機構近日研究也發現,美國有52%消費者聽過智慧型眼鏡、手鍊或手錶等穿戴式裝置,且平均每3人就有1人表示願意購買,因此不難想像日後將有更多時尚品牌投入這塊市場。

新聞來源: 中時電子報

相關新聞: 「衣服」未來接受度最高穿戴產品!


Ralph Lauren Polo Tech shirt reads wearer's biological and physiological info

Ralph Lauren clothing has been helping people look slick since 1967, but in the future it may also help you to keep fit. The company has announced a new Polo Tech shirt that monitors biological and physiological information of its wearer. It will be tested out at this year's US Open.

Lots of people use mobile apps to help track and improve their fitness, but fewer will be familiar the concept of T-shirts that can do the same. The Hexoskin shirt is one such garment that analyzes movement, breathing and heart activity. Smart T-shirts have also been developed to monitor people's health remotely.

Ralph Lauren says the Polo Tech tracks biometrics and psychometrics to provide insights into the wearer's sporting performance and to help improve future performance. It features an electrocardiogram, a breathing sensor, a gyroscope and an accelerometer. Proprietary algorithms are said to help interpret the data collected, which includes stress levels, energy output, heart rate, heart rate variability, breathing rate, breathing depth, activity intensity, steps and calories burned. The shirt, designed in partnership with tech clothing manufacturer OMsignal, has sensors knitted into it. These use Bluetooth to send the data that they capture to a "black box," which then relays it into the cloud where the algorithms are applied. The data can then be accessed by the user through an accompanying mobile app, which can be used to provide real-time training feedback.

The Polo Tech is of the elasticated skin-hugging kind of top, which are known as compression shirts. The pressure exerted by compression shirts is said to stimulate blood flow and help muscle recovery.

Number one US Intercollegiate Tennis Association singles player Marcos Giron will wear the Polo Tech during his practice sessions at this year's US Open. Some ball boys will also wear it during the tournament.

The video below provides an introduction to the Polo Tech shirt.

Source: Ralph Lauren

2014年8月21日

什麼顏色衣服既涼快又防曬?

淺色衣服其實更不防曬,紅色衣服卻是最能阻止紫外線

什麼顏色衣服既涼快又防曬?

2014-08-06 01:12:00

  紅色看上去雖然貌似一團火有些熱,可夏天裡穿紅色衣服卻是最能阻止紫外線、最防曬的色彩!科學上認為,紅色的光波最長,可大量吸收日光中的紫外線。

  顏色越深,其紫外線防護性能越高,如藏青色、深藍色、深紫色,這些都是僅次於紅色,最能阻隔紫外線的顏色,別人看瞂熱,可是自己穿起來涼快。

  「夏季穿淺色衣服比穿深色衣服更涼快」這個傳統觀念日漸受到挑戰。不久前,美國哈佛大學的一項研究表明,在炎熱的夏季,穿黑色服裝比穿白色服裝涼爽。專家們指出,人體內的熱量可以通過輻射、傳導、對流和蒸發向外散發。

  當然,很多人會說黑色衣服比白色衣服吸熱多,但吸收的熱量可以成為衣服內形成對流的動力,衣服內的空氣對流,可將皮膚表面的汗液和部分熱量帶走消散,人體自然就會感覺涼爽!當然,黑色衣服應做得寬鬆一些,這樣可以使「對流」加強,衣服的涼爽程度也增加。

【來源:成報】

延伸閱讀:何謂抗UV布料?

2014年8月19日

澳洲防水T恤,再也不怕飲料打翻 | The T-shirt That Never Gets Wet

"疏水"T恤,號稱就算打翻飲料也不用怕了

澳洲研發“疏水”棉質T恤,防水防汙最多可承受80次機洗


近日,澳大利亞墨爾本服裝技術品牌公司Threadsmiths運用新發明的面料,製成一款具有開創性的T恤衫,名為騎士(The Cavalier),不管人們怎樣嘗試著浸濕它,此T恤都能保持良好的防水性能。

該款白色騎士T恤由百分之百棉質製成。雖然表面看起來平淡無奇,但是其面料運用“疏水”奈米技術應用編織而成,使得這件T恤能夠有效防止大部分液體和污漬的浸入。這種T恤可以用機器清洗,其防水功能最多可承受80次清洗。它的面料有天然自淨功能,任何附著在上的污漬都能用水擦洗或沖乾淨。這一品牌目前只生產T恤衫,Threadsmiths品牌的負責人Pitchford表示,大多數人在看到這T恤時都很吃驚,他希望人們對於將這種材料製成哪些衣服提出建議。

目前,這項新技術已被註冊專利。和其他含有化學物質的防水應用不同, Threadsmiths聲稱:“我們的T恤仿照的是荷葉的自然疏水特點。”

業界認為,此面料的發明對於餐館和咖啡廳來說可能具有革命性的影響,因為在那些地方液體灑在桌布上或圍裙上的事幾乎每天都會發生。此外,這種面料還可以運用在醫療行業或醫院等地。

(資料來源:全球紡織網)

延伸閱讀: 認識布料潑水(撥水)效果純棉衣物保養技巧


The T-shirt that never gets wet: Inventors create 'hydrophobic' fabric which repels liquid and dirt


  • A Melbourne label has created a 100 per cent cotton waterproof T-shirt
  • The technology is woven into the fabric and repels liquid and dirt
  • Chemical free, the Australian invention by Threadsmiths has been patented
  • The waterproof effect can last up to 80 machine washes

By RYAN LIPMAN
PUBLISHED: 16:14 GMT, 4 August 2014 | UPDATED: 06:57 GMT, 5 August 2014

Ever wanted to stay dry in a water fight? Melbourne clothing and technology label Threadsmiths has created a revolutionary T-shirt that remains waterproof no matter how hard you try to soak it.

Made from 100 per cent cotton, the plain white T-shirts called The Cavalier feature a 'hydrophobic' nano-technology application woven in the fabric and capable of repelling most liquids and dirt.

A patented technology, unlike other liquid-repelling applications and aerosols which can contain chemicals, the Threadsmiths website states: 'Our shirts emulate the natural hydrophobic properties of the lotus leaf.' 'The Cavalier shirt contains no aerosol applications and no dangerous chemicals, and is completely safe to wear - as a shirt should be.'

Still breathable, the Australian invention's technology boosts the material's resistance to water and stains by causing it to simply bead up and roll off the fabric.



Source: DailyMail

2014年8月13日

加拿大研發「隱形人布料」

加拿大研發新型偽裝布料或可讓士兵變“隱形人”


據媒體報導,在很多科技影視作品中會出現隱形的先進技術,隨著科技的發展,人們不斷地進行實驗探索,研發現實中的隱形材料。加拿大Hyperstealth生物科技公司研發一種先進的偽裝布料,未來或能夠讓士兵變成“隱形人”。

這種偽裝布料被稱之為“量子隱形”,能夠彎曲周圍的光波,進而達到隱形效果。Hyperstealth公司表示“量子隱形”布料的作用類似於隱形斗篷,甚至能夠騙過夜視鏡。然而,這項技術的研發還處於高度機密,Hyperstealth公司只提供相關類比畫面。

Hyperstealth公司首席執行官蓋伊-克拉默表示,他不會透露這種布料的任何細節。不過,他可以提供一些類比畫面,展示這種布料的功效。“量子隱形”布料擁有不可估量的價值,能夠幫助飛行員撤離敵方領土和躲避追捕,允許特種部隊在白天執行隱秘任務且不會被敵方發現。此外,這項技術還能孕育出新一代隱形飛機,不僅對雷達隱形,甚至對肉眼隱形。

克拉默提出了這樣一種假設:使用“量子隱形”布料打造的加拿大坦克部隊能夠在不暴露位置情況下與敵軍交戰。敵人只能聽到坦克發動機和機關槍的咆哮聲。他說:「隨著行動無法被發現的加拿大隱形軍隊的新聞不脛而走,對敵軍心理產生的影響將是破壞性的。他們永遠不知道這支隱形軍隊何時將他們鎖定為目標或者將他們包圍,也不知道自己是否已經陷入險境」。


【資料來源:全球紡織網】


2014年8月1日

何謂Tencel®天絲棉 | What is Tencel®?

何謂Tencel®天絲棉 | What is Tencel®?
何謂Tencel®天絲棉



TENCEL®

TENCEL® 是全球知名lyocell纖維的品牌名稱,是取材於天然的人造纖維。TENCEL® 是舒適的代表之一,休閒但細緻。它有天然纖維的透氣舒適,也有類似人造纖維的耐久性,極容易打理的功能,其柔軟、垂墜、平滑及耐用之特質正是TENCEL® 獨有的。

從優雅而垂墜感高的針織品到柔性舒適的針織品,幾乎都可以見到TENCEL®的名稱。

TENCEL®的製造:

TENCEL纖維是從木漿中的天然纖維素提煉出來,它的原料是100﹪植物纖維,由純化的精製木漿所製成,而製作這些木漿的原料木材,又來自於由森林標準委員會所認可管理的森林。TENCEL纖維是由長鏈纖維素分子,所組成高結晶結構組織,因此具有高強度、高純淨度,並在濕態中仍然能維持原有的化學性質。

TENCEL®在製造過程中會使用到NMMO溶劑,此溶劑幾乎可以全部回收再使用,大大減低了對環境的汙染,且其原料為天然纖維素,在無使用價值棄置後較容易自然分解,不會造成環境負擔,所以也被稱做環保纖維的一種。

由TENCEL纖維所製成的產品都是可被生物分解的,這對於拋棄式不織布產品的使用量日漸增加後,所必定會造成的垃圾處理問題,提供了一個解決的好方法。



TENCEL®的特色:

提供了 獨一無二的優點,結合了人造纖維與天然纖維的優點。同時具有絲綢的柔軟、聚酯纖維的堅韌、天然麻的涼爽、羊毛的溫和柔軟以及和棉相當的吸水性。可以算是當時具有突破性的纖維。

(前往了解認識聚酯纖維)

TENCEL是當代舒適的代表,休閒但細緻。兼具天然纖維的透氣舒適,也有人造纖維的耐久性極容易打理的功能,其柔軟、垂墜、平滑及耐用之特質,只有TENCEL才能同時擁有。從優雅而垂墜感高的針織品到柔性舒適的梭織品。天絲纖維擁有絕佳的吸濕功能,也具有最佳的肌膚親和特性。

TENCEL纖維也很容易與其他纖維混合製作不織布,在梳棉時不需要很多前置作業,而成形網的形狀也相當一致性,具有良好的內聚力,並且沒有棉結。TENCEL纖維能有效達成低丹尼,而且不會對纖維造成什麼損害。對於樹脂黏合不織布,TENCEL纖維的高強度,可以減少黏液的使用量,而能夠增強產品吸收能力及柔軟度,甚至於可以用縫製取代紙漿,以增加強度、吸收力及純度。


What is Tencel®?

Tencel® is the registered trade name for a type of lyocell, a biodegradable material made from wood pulp cellulose. Fabric sold under the this brand specifically is manufactured by Lenzing AG. This material started to grow in popularity in the late 1990s and is now used in a variety of ways. Though the exact characteristics of the material depend on how it's processed, it tends to be durable and soft. Often said to be environmentally friendly, it is fully biodegradable and made from trees managed for sustained harvest.

Qualities

This material is very versatile, since it can be manipulated to have a variety of textures. Early Tencel® garments were often compared to rayon in look and feel, but it is now made in a variety of textures including a silky, peach skin, or moleskin feel. Blends with other fibers such as wool, cotton or linen can produce a variety of textures. Garments made with this fabric generally drape well, resist wrinkles, and are fairly durable. Additionally, the fabric is very breathable and moisture wicking, which can make it good for those with sensitive skin.

Cleaning

Most garments made with this material are machine washable. If washed in cold water, they shrink slightly with the first washing, but then won’t shrink in future washes. The cloth also dries quickly, so drip-drying is an alternative to using a dryer. If other fabrics are used in a garment it may require dry cleaning, even though the Tencel® itself does not.

Uses

Tencel® is used in a variety of applications, including men's wear, sheets, and blankets. Since it's absorbent and dries quickly, it is also suitable for towels. Clothes made from this material are often recommended for traveling because they are light and keep their shape well. Tencel® is also available as fabric for sewing, as yarn for knitting or crocheting, and as fiber for spinning. Besides it use as a cloth, it is also used in making bandages, baby wipes, oil filters and carpeting for cars, as well as conveyor belts and plastic parts. In powder or fiber form, this material is used in making specialized papers, as an additive for building materials, and in making foam mattresses.

Manufacturing Process

The fabric is considered a natural rather than synthetic product because it is made from plant material. To make Tencel® wood chips are mixed with a solvent to produce a wet mixture. This is then pushed through small holes to form threads. These are chemically treated, lubricated, and then combed and cut into usable lengths. The lengths of fiber are then spun into yarn and woven into cloth.

Environmental Impact

Manufacturers of the product say that the solvent used, amine oxide, is non-toxic and recycled during the production cycle. Though it is dyed with conventional dyes, which can harm the environment, less dye is needed than for a similar amount of cotton. Studies also show that processing of Tencel® requires less energy and water than that of cotton, and the trees used are usually grown without pesticides. Despite this, shipping the raw materials needed to make Tencel® throughout the world does require a lot of energy, as does the production process.

資料來源 Source: WiseGeek
編排整理 Edited by: ACOTEX Fabric Talks 布料知識庫