Merry Christmas 2013

Merry Christmas 2013

Wish you a Merry Christmas and may this festival bring abundant joy and happiness in your life!

祝聖誕快樂，讓這個美麗的節日為您帶來豐富的歡樂和幸福！

ACOTEX Fabrics

認識羽絨 | What is down feather?

如何分辨羽絨

使用羽絨製作出來的產品輕便、舒適、透氣又保暖，不論是做衣服或是棉被都是不錯的選擇。羽絨衣、羽絨外套和羽絨外套更是我們在嚴冬時的依賴。但是如何分辨羽絨的好壞呢？羽絨產品是羽絨（DOWN）混合羽毛（FEATHER），依比例不同區分好壞，如果不仔細研究產品，你買到的羽絨衣或羽絨被可能就是便宜的劣質產品哦！

認識羽絨

一般通稱的羽毛，指可游水而不沾溼的羽毛，主要為鵝毛、鴨毛，歐美日諸國之稱為水鳥羽毛，有別於不會游水，且會沾溼的羽毛，如雞等陸鳥羽毛，所以會有落湯雞之稱。 嚴格說來，羽毛要再細分為羽根和羽絨：

• 羽根為葉狀纖維體，依其生長部位，長短不一，具有適當彈性，抗壓力強，故常做為枕頭的材料。
• 羽絨為球狀纖維體，在羽根下層，緊貼著腹部及翅窩的肌肉生長，只佔全身羽毛的8%，質地輕柔彈性好，是最理想的服飾和棉被材料。

羽絨產品

有的劣質羽絨產品是用合成棉加少許羽絨製成的，這種羽絨產品往往是外層的中間鋪一層羽絨，而內裡的地方鋪合成棉。買時用手裡外仔細摸一摸，如一面摸出一些毛梗，而另一面非常柔軟平滑，就要考慮可能是劣質產品。也可以用雙手分別從內外的同一部位把其中的填充物向同一方向拍打，如果是真羽絨產品，就會因拍趕而使一部分羽絨集中，而另一部分在有陽光的地方一照就會透亮。如果是鋪有合成棉的劣質羽絨產品，就不會出現這種情況。也有的羽絨產品是用未處理過的原毛製成的，這類羽絨產品聞上去有一股腥氣異味，用手一拍還會有塵土飛揚或布料上出現塵汙痕跡，不應選擇。

還有一種用粉碎絨製作的羽絨產品，其含絨量多在50％~70％之間，其他成分則多是細羽絨毛片。這類羽絨產品的手感十分柔軟，摸不到一點毛梗子，掂在手裡的感覺也不像正宗羽絨產品一樣的輕柔，而是比較沉重。用手輕拍時，用粉碎羽絨製成的羽絨產品蓬鬆度差，形如棉絮。所謂羽絨是取自於水鳥（鵝或鴨）胸前羽毛的前端，形狀如蒲公英般鬆軟輕柔，遇熱會更加蓬鬆，而且能像毛細孔般隨溫度變化自然開閉，而羽絨蓬鬆的特性，能隔絕冷空氣，是羽絨衣保暖的關鍵。雖然羽絨衣顧名思義是由羽絨填充製成的，但事實上大部份的羽絨衣還摻雜帶梗的小羽毛，羽絨衣的優劣就取決於羽絨和小羽根的比例，羽絨成份愈高，保暖度就愈好。最高級的羽絨產品可以到100%羽絨。

頂級的羽絨衣、羽絨外套，絕對不能從中作「梗」

羽絨放大圖

很多人一定都會有這種經驗，羽絨外套才穿沒幾次，竟然會發現到有小羽毛梗從車縫線間插出，穿起來還會刺刺的，經常被插到皮膚。因為對於羽絨衣的知識一知半解，聽信店家信口開河，花大把鈔票買到劣等羽絨產品，也只能自嘆倒楣。要挑一件品質好價格合理的羽絨衣其實不難，首先，要先記住的觀念是「一分錢一分貨」，因為好的羽絨產量不多，而且需要人工揀選，非常費時費工，所以一件頂級羽絨衣至少好幾千元跑不掉。第二，選擇值得信賴的產品來源，與其在夜市選購羽絨外套，不如前往門市店面選購，一方面可以確保產品來源，另一方面如果遇到問題可以回去和店員詢問。第三，選擇通過檢驗的羽絨產品，以台灣產的羽絨為例，通過台灣CAS羽絨驗證的羽絨產品才是經過層層嚴謹的驗證程序把關，亦是MIT優質品質的保證。

專家表示，羽絨產品是羽絨（DOWN）混合羽毛（FEATHER），需靠含有一定比率的羽毛，才會膨鬆、保暖、有彈性，且因羽絨價格高，商業上少有百分之百的純羽絨衣。較差羽絨衣羽絨與羽毛比例是五十比五十，好一點是七十比三十；至於近年流行超輕薄羽絨衣，是百分之九十的羽絨、加入百分之十的羽毛，才能維持輕薄又保暖的功用。且經濟部即將修正「服飾標示基準」，由於羽絨產品不可能百分百由羽絨製成，未來將限制業者只能標示含羽絨比率，禁止再標示「百分百」或「純」羽絨；違者可依商標法，最重開罰新台幣廿萬元。羽絨產品多為衣服、棉被等貼身用品，其品質好壞與否會對健康造成直接影響，一定要謹慎選購。

羽絨衣、羽絨外套的保養方式

羅志祥穿著羽絨外套為品牌代言

在了解羽絨，並知道如何選購羽絨產品之後，別忘了也要定期保養。很多人認為，所有好衣服都應該送乾洗，其實這是錯誤的觀念。除非產品上有特別標註需要乾洗，否則正常手洗或放入洗衣機清洗即可。將普通的洗劑溶於水後，放入羽絨衣、羽絨外套浸泡約5～10分鐘，再輕輕刷洗衣領、袖口等污漬殘留處，然後以清水沖洗乾淨，最後再放進洗衣袋裡低速脫水即可。如果以洗衣機清洗的話記得要調整至低速清洗，以免傷到羽絨。乾衣時避免直接曝曬於陽光底下。

最後，收藏羽絨衣也不可大意，不論是自然陰乾還是烘乾，把羽絨衣收藏起來之前，一定要確認整件羽絨衣都乾了，再大力搖晃讓羽絨衣蓬鬆，才能收進衣櫃裡收納。

(前往了解防水外套該如何保養)

Down Feather

饒舌歌手Drake身穿Canada Goose羽絨外套
Drake wearing Canada Goose down jacket

The down of birds is a layer of fine feathers found under the tougher exterior feathers. Very young birds are clad only in down. Powder down is a specialized type of down found only in a few groups of birds. Down is a fine thermal insulator and padding, used in goods such as jackets, bedding, pillows and sleeping bags. The discovery of feathers trapped in ancient amber suggests that some species of dinosaur may have possessed down-like feathers.

Human use

For centuries, humans across the globe have used down feathers for insulation. The down feathers of various species of wildfowl, gulls and other seabirds have historically been used for insulation, most now come from domestic geese. Some 70 percent of the world's supply comes from China, typically from birds killed for their meat. Most of the rest comes from Europe and Canada, from birds harvested for meat or pâté.

In the United States, Federal Trade Commission regulations require that any product labeled "100% Down" must contain only down feathers, while products labeled simply "Down" can contain a mixture of fiber and feathers. In addition, products labeled as "Goose Down" must contain at least 90% goose feathers. Down insulation is rated by fill power, which is the number of cubic inches displaced by a given ounce of down (in3/oz). To measure fill power, an ounce of down is placed into a graduated cylinder, and a small weight is dropped in on top of it; the volume below the weight indicates the fill power. Eider down has the highest fill power, at 1200. However, even down with a fill power as low as 550 still provides reasonably good insulation. Higher fill-power downs will thus insulate better than lower fill-power downs of the same weight. Insulation in most outdoor equipment ranges from about 400 to 900 in3/oz (230–520 cm3/g). Down rated 500-650 in3/oz (290–375 cm3/g) is warm enough and light enough for most conditions, and 800-900 in3/oz (460–520 cm3/g) fill is used for very lightweight and/or very cold-weather gear.

Down is warm, lightweight and packable. If well cared for, it retains its loft up to three times longer than do most synthetics. However, when it is wet, the thermal properties of down are virtually eliminated. Down forms clumps if exposed to dampness or moisture, and will mildew if left damp. In addition, it will absorb and retain odors.

Down feathers tend to become more allergenic as they age, as they become contaminated with molds and dust mites. Pillows provide the most common source of exposure, though mattresses, comforters, outerwear and upholstery can also cause problems. A Finnish study has shown that true feather allergies are rare, with most issues caused by dust mites.

Types of Down

Goose down: The down clusters harvested from geese are larger and possess more loft than down from many other birds. Hungarian goose down: Widely considered to be the finest quality down clusters, they are larger than the norm and are mostly pure white in color.
Duck down: The clusters of down harvested from ducks are smaller and more coarse than those of geese. Duck down is usually collected from ducks raised for food, so they're slaughtered at a young age and the down is not fully mature. Duck down is considered low quality and is sometimes mixed with goose down.

Eider down: This is considered to be the ultimate in duck down; it's collected from the breast feathers of the female eider duck and has the largest duck down clusters.

Feather-down combinations: Down compacts with age and is not appropriate for some applications; most down-filled pillow forms are stuffed with a combination of down and feathers. The presence of feathers adds weight, stability and bulk. Therefore, a mixture with more down will be lighter and fluffier than a pillow with a higher feather ratio.

編排整理 Edited: ACOTEX Fabric Talks 布料指南

ACODRY® Compression Training Shirt 機能運動緊身衣 [Garmin Limited Edition限量款]

MbX x Garmin
ACODRY® Pro Compression Training Shirt 機能運動緊身衣

Garmin Limited Edition 科技時尚限量款

一群工程師和一個偉大的產品構想，造就了今日全球衛星定位導航系統的領導品牌Garmin。身為導航和通訊產品的領導者，Garmin 總是堅持給消費者最專業的品質。為了推廣運動風氣，Garmin 找上MbX合作開發此款機能運動緊身衣，利用 MbX Sportswear 對運動機能服飾專業的概念，導入 Garmin 科技時尚的理念，很迅速地擦出激烈火花。Garmin 專屬藍色線條，勾勒出強烈的未來科技感，並導入新一代 ACODRY® Pro 高階吸濕快乾布料。獨特的紡織纖維處理工藝，與一般布料相比，能更快將皮膚的排汗吸走，進而提升人體的舒適度，並額外加強抗UV保護層，讓人體在艷陽高照下也能有效阻擋UV傷害皮膚。讓您在運動時能保持乾爽清新的舒適體驗。


As a leading brand of GPS devices worldwide, Garmin always deliver the most professional technology quality to consumers. In 2013, Garmin partnered with MbX Sportswear to develop a brand new product - ACODRY® Pro Compression Training Shirt. This limited edition Compression Training shirt implemented Garmin future technology elements into its design concept. With the revolutionary material: ACODRY® Pro is designed to keep you comfortable and dry next-to-skin, the revolution technology that provides significantly faster moisture wicking action and quicker drying than cotton or other materials. The anti-odor function prevents the growth of odor causing microbes, plus its UV protection, giving you the whole new experience while doing sports.

保養方式： 可置於洗衣機，不須乾洗 (使用溫水或冷水洗滌即可) 避免使用漂白劑或衣物柔軟精等強效洗潔劑，以免破壞布料功能 避免長時間浸泡水中 自然風乾或放入烘乾機，選用中低溫烘乾 風乾後20~30分鐘，即可恢復吸濕排汗效果

Care Instruction: Machine washable Avoid using chlorine bleach, fabric softeners or stain removers Avoid soaking in water or stay wet for a long period of time Line dry, or tumble with low heat if necessary The durable water-repellent(DWR) will be reactivated after 20~30 minutes

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(了解更多ACODRY® Pro機能布料)

ACODRY® Womens Capri Legging 女款七分緊身褲

OFITS POLO
ACODRY® Womens Capri Legging 女款七分緊身褲

OFITS POLO設計團隊特別設計此款可顯露美麗腳部的七分緊身褲。材質具有舒適伸縮性，可緊貼腳部，展現女性優雅線條。舒適的延展性，不會有拘束感，膝部特殊設計，增進您腿部舒適的活動性。ACODRY® 採用先進纖維技術，可迅速吸收汗水，保持乾燥，具有良好的吸汗快乾功能，讓乾爽清新更加持久


This super comfy fit ACO-DRY® Womens Capri Legging is designed by OFITS POLO development team. With elastic stretch and quick dry material featuring ACODRY® fabric which gives you the comfortable experience by fast-moisture wicking performance, keeping your skin dry all day long.

膝部特殊設計
Knee-Comfort Design

保養方式： 可置於洗衣機，不須乾洗 (使用溫水或冷水洗滌即可) 避免使用漂白劑或衣物柔軟精等強效洗潔劑，以免破壞表面防潑水效果 避免長時間浸泡水中 自然風乾或放入烘乾機，選用中低溫烘乾 風乾後20~30分鐘，即可恢復防潑水效果

Care Instruction: Machine washable Avoid using chlorine bleach, fabric softeners or stain removers Avoid soaking in water or stay wet for a long period of time Line dry, or tumble with low heat if necessary The durable water-repellent(DWR) will be reactivated after 20~30 minutes

R.I.P Nelson Mandela

Rest in peace Nelson Mandela, thank you for all you have given humanity!
曼德拉總統，感謝您對世界人權的貢獻!

Former South African President Nelson Mandela, who served 27 years in prison for anti-apartheid activities and led his continent into a new era, has died at age 95.

南非前總統曼德拉不敵病魔，在今日與世長辭，享壽95歲，他是全球最受尊崇的政治家之一，艱辛地帶領南非脫離種族隔離政策，走向多種族民主。

ACODRY® Pro Mens Compression Training Shorts 男款訓練緊身短褲

MbX
ACODRY® Pro Mens Compression Training Shorts 男款訓練緊身短褲

MbX Sportswear和所有運動愛好者一樣，不斷挑戰更舒適的運動體驗。這次 MbX Sportswear 再度找上 ACOTEX® Fabrics 合作開發機能性運動服飾，希望藉由ACOTEX的舒適布料「肌膚系列Skin Series」中最高階的機能布料材質 ACODRY® Pro 為專業運動員打造一個最舒適的運動環境。ACODRY® Pro 長效型布料，具有吸濕、快乾、透氣、抗菌、防臭和抗UV等功能，並以革命性的技術鎖住布料的功能性，讓舒適度不因洗滌次數而漸漸降低。幫助你迅速排汗保持乾爽，更專注在挑戰自我上。簡單的剪裁設計，保有運動員的低調毅力，隨時準備和極限抗衡。


Like all the sport lovers, MbX Sportswear challenge themselves for a better result. The MbX Sportswear once again find ACOTEX® Fabrics to develop functional material for their sportswear, using the most comfortable high-level performance fabric in "ACODRY® Skin Series" - ACODRY® Pro revolutionary durable fast moisture-wicking performance fabric also with the ability of quick dry, permeability, UV protection and oder control.

保養方式： 可置於洗衣機，不須乾洗 (使用溫水或冷水洗滌即可) 避免使用漂白劑或衣物柔軟精等強效洗潔劑，以免破壞布料功能 避免長時間浸泡水中 自然風乾或放入烘乾機，選用中低溫烘乾 風乾後20~30分鐘，即可恢復吸濕排汗效果

Care Instruction: Machine washable Avoid using chlorine bleach, fabric softeners or stain removers Avoid soaking in water or stay wet for a long period of time Line dry, or tumble with low heat if necessary The durable water-repellent(DWR) will be reactivated after 20~30 minutes

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(了解更多ACODRY® Pro機能布料)

防水外套如何保養? | How To Take Care For Winter Jacket?

防水外套該如何保養?

一件有品質的防水外套通常價格不斐，如果是名牌出產的防水外套甚至破萬把塊錢都有可能(例: Gore-Tex、Conduit等)。猶如保養車子一樣，這些具有特殊功能的衣物也值得您小心的定時檢查、保養它。

通常在雨天或是濕冷的環境穿了幾次之後，可能會感覺外套的撥水(潑水)功能似乎不像剛買來時那麼優異。

簡單的測試撥水度的方式就是將衣服在乾燥的情況下，將水淋上布料表層，如果水滴沒有在布料表面形成水珠，而是被吸收進去布料裡面的話，那很明顯地就是布料的撥水(潑水)功能已經被削減了。

(認識衣物撥水效果)

如果布料的撥水(潑水)功能已經被削減了怎麼辦？不必擔心，只要經過細心的照料保養，馬上又可以讓你的防水透氣外套重新復活。



防水外套的正確保養步驟:

1. 將外套徹底清潔:
   衣服的髒汙源除了汗水及泥土的直接碰觸外，空氣污染也是造成外套髒汙的一大來源，所以衣服只要有在用，雖然肉眼看不出髒汙，每隔幾個月作適當的清理保養，對衣服來說是很重要的。品質好的防水透濕大衣不必害怕清洗，定時做清潔保養才能讓它壽命更長久。清理時，先將衣服表面泥沙塵土輕輕清理，再將衣物所有的拉鍊拉上、扣子扣好、魔鬼氈黏好(如果是兩件式外套，建議先將其拆分開再進行清洗)。可以先將領口、袖口、背部及較髒的地方用軟毛刷輕輕地刷洗、清洗汙垢。通常一般的防水透濕外套都可以置於洗衣機，不須乾洗(除非有特別無法移除之毛配件)。盡量使用溫和清潔劑，選用溫水或冷水洗滌。而且要避免使用漂白劑、衣物柔軟精或強效洗潔劑等，以免破壞布料功能。避免長時間浸泡水中。洗滌之前，還是要先詳細參閱各製造商的清洗標籤，並請遵照製造商建議，畢竟各個品牌的防水透濕外套採用的材料都有些許的不同。(前往了解認識清洗標示)


2. 恢復撥水(潑水)功能:
   隨著使用或洗滌次數，外套的撥水(潑水)功能一定會漸漸衰退，這時候就可以看出品牌對於撥水(潑水)加工處理上的好壞。如果你的防水透濕大衣已經沒有像剛開始買的時候可以在表面上形成水珠，甚至已經開始滲入外套布料內，這就表示是時候該為你的外套做額外的撥水(潑水)處理照料了
   
   上圖為一般市面上常見的各種撥水(潑水)功能處理劑。恢復撥水(潑水)處理需在完成清洗步驟後，於衣服沒有滴水的狀態，大約七分溼時，均勻噴上或浸泡建議劑量的防潑水處理劑。


3. 脫水烘乾:
   如果衣物標籤上沒有標明「禁止烘乾/熨燙」等字樣，便可使用低溫烘乾或蒸汽熨斗方式將其乾燥(認識衣物標籤圖示)。溫度除了幫助布料對於撥水(潑水)處理劑的吸附，同時也活化布料撥水(潑水)的效果。經過實驗證實，烘乾效果與風乾對於布料撥水(潑水)的確影響有實質上的影響。
   當然，若是產品本身有標明「禁止烘乾/熨燙」的話，置於通風處自然陰乾即可。千萬不能置於陽光下進行長期曝曬，因為紫外線會加速布料材質老化及破壞其他大衣配件。


4. 選擇良好的保存環境
   畢竟外套都有它的壽命，適時的保養才能延長壽命。在進行完善的保養之後，保存的環境也是格外重要的。在將防水大衣放進衣櫥衣櫃以前，務必要再三確認衣物裡外都已經徹底乾燥。若有水氣殘留，或有沒乾的部位，會造成布料防水透氣膜的傷害，或是內部肉眼看不到的黴菌滋生的問題，而造成衣物無法挽救之錯誤，因此存放大衣外套的地點濕度也都是要特別注意的。

How To Take Care For Winter Jacket?

Any quality jacket that says “Waterproof” on the tag likely meets industry standard for keeping out moisture, so you really do not have to worry about modern jackets leaking. Maintaining breathability, the other side of staying dry, requires proper care and maintenance of the garment. There are a couple of simple things you can do to make sure that your jacket keeps you dry for many hikes to come:

Keep your Gear Clean:

Dirty gear doesn’t just smell bad…it functions bad as well. That is because breathability relies on the openness of the tiny pores in the waterproof-breathable membrane. Impurities from the environment and oils and minerals from your skin and sweat can all collude to clog up the pores and decrease the performance of your gear. Regular washing keeps this problem in check, as well as makes it easier for your buddies to sit next to you on drives to the trailhead. The best choice for washing your raingear is a detergent specifically made for outdoor gear, like Nikwax Tech Wash. If you can’t get that, use mild, unscented, powdered detergent. Other detergents can actually degrade your membrane, dramatically shortening the life of your gear in a way that companies will be hesitant to warranty. You can hand wash your gear in the sink or throw it in the machine on the most gentle cycle. It is a good idea to yank rain gear out before the spin cycle, because water trapped on the inside of the garment is not going to spin off, just put unnecessary pressure on your membrane. A few shakes and a minute to drip should have your gear ready for the drier. Read the tag, and dry your gear as warm as it allows. Or just hang it in the breeze.

Take care of your DWR:

The coolest thing about brand new rain gear is that when you walk out in the rain (or spill your coffee on it) liquid beads up and rolls off like water off a ducks back. This has nothing to do with the membrane inside, but is due to a coating on the face fabric called a Durable Water Repellent (or DWR). If the membrane or coating on the inside of the fabric isthere to keep you dry, the DWR is there to keep the fabric dry. This is important because breathability depends on a vapor gradient; for the moisture to want to leave the inside of your jacket, the air outside must have less moisture in it than the air inside. But, if your DWR fails and the fabric “wets out,” directly on the other side of the micro-thin membrane is soaked, cold nylon, then vapor is not going to want to exit the garment. In fact, it is more likely to hit the chilled membrane and condense, leaving liquid moisture on the inside and making it feel for all the world like your jacket is leaking.

Brand new gear always has a great DWR coating, but time, wear, and contamination all take their toll on DWR. So wash your gear regularly, and dry it in the drier on as high a heat setting as the fabric will allow. This will help restore the efficacy of your DWR. If your clean jacket is still wetting out too quickly, retreatment might be necessary. Buy a treatment, like Revivex or TxDirect from Nikwax, and spray it on your garment after washing but before the drier. It will restore the coating and keep you more comfortable for longer.

編排整理 Edited: ACOTEX Fabric Talks 布料指南
Source: Denali